Workshop lighting

[Craig T]

Morning all,

I am just in the process of finishing my workshop build and am now looking for lighting, does anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks

 

[Grahamshed]

I am just about to replace the lighting in my workshop. People talk about the colour temp of different lights but I think it is positioning that is more important. I plan on putting strip lights along the edges ( maybe a foot in or so ) rather than the middle of the room so that I am not casting shadows onto the workbench or machines.

 

[bodge]

Hi Craig and welcome to the forum.

I can't speak intelligently about colour temperatures, but I would agree with Graham about positioning. My set up is less than ideal at the moment as I haven't yet arranged it properly, but having lighting just behind my head when working on a machine/bench etc, casts shadows and gives insufficient lighting making life very difficult and at times, downright dangerous.
My workspace has been used for many things over the years and through them all I have yet to find anything to beat good old flourescent lighting. I'm sure there are more energy efficient alternatives available nowadays, but in terms of lighting power and running costs, I've always been happy with them.

 

[mbartlett99]

Wickes do very cost effective strip lights; I've used 4 x 5Ft units for the garage arranged in two rows of two set about a third in from each wall. No shadows although perhaps I wish I'd gone for a daylight balanced tube - but thats a bit more cash.

 

[mjcann]

I am sure you are all aware of problems with locating flou lights over rotating machines, ie, lathes, with strob effect giving appearance of shaft being stationary or going backwards,
I believe this will be cured by using high frequency fittings, and of course using tungston work lights on machine.
Regards Martin

 

[Elapid]

For me I use strip lights on the ceiling and the lamps or spotlights on the individual things that need it. Probably a better way but my way is very simple and effective.

 

[Argus]

I am sure you are all aware of problems with locating flou lights over rotating machines, ie, lathes, with strob effect giving appearance of shaft being stationary or going backwards,
I believe this will be cured by using high frequency fittings, and of course using tungston work lights on machine.
Regards Martin

.

I think that you can avoid the strobe effect by using twin Fluorescent fittings only.

.

.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Another thing that can make a huge difference to light in a workshop is to paint the walls and ceiling white. It reflects light back into the workshop rather than absorbing it.

 

[AndyT]

Modern high frequency fluorescents (with electronic ignition) are great. I've upgraded to two twin fittings where I had singles before, and it's like a nice sunny day in there. No buzzing and they turn on instantly too.

 

[Louise-Paisley]

ordinary twin fitting have little or no effect on strobe effect, they effectively flash with the mains frequency 50 times a second and both tubes would be in sync.

You can get twin fittings which are designed for rotating machinery where one tube is electronically offset from the other, in more industrial/ commercial workshops where you have 3 phase available the easiest solution is to distribute the lighting across the 3 phases.

 

[MARK.B.]

Yep have to agree strip lights work well,i have mine wired so that i can switch off those lights that are not needed depending on which area of the workshop iam using at the time.

Thought I better add a caution here :!: they make a hell of a mess if you catch one with a length of timber and can be a pain getting the small bits out of machines #-o

 

[MickCheese]

I have been looking at the daylight strips from http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Information/default.htm

Mick

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Another thing that can make a huge difference to light in a workshop is to paint the walls and ceiling white. It reflects light back into the workshop rather than absorbing it.

(hammer) Yes, start at the beginning.
Phil.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yep have to agree strip lights work well,i have mine wired so that i can switch off those lights that are not needed depending on which area of the workshop iam using at the time.

Thought I better add a caution here :!: they make a hell of a mess if you catch one with a length of timber and can be a pain getting the small bits out of machines #-o

How do you know?
Well, you didn't say DAMHIKT, did you? :lol: :lol:
S

 

[Steve Maskery]

I think I'm going to fit my next one out with proper Cat 2 fittings. I know it will be more expensive than standard fluors, but I'll only have to do it once and it might even mean that I can do quite a lot of filming with minimal other lighting. I don't know that for sure, but I know a man who probably does.
+1 for painting the shop white.
S

 

[MARK.B.]

How do you know?
Well, you didn't say DAMHIKT, did you? :lol: :lol:
S[/quote]

Ahh Steve it was slight miscalculation of timber length verses height of lights

I might have said something very similar :wink:

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's easily done.
S

 

[misterfish]

To avoid this problem I also bought the plastic diffusers that protect the tubes in my workshop - I've got 4 double 5ft fittings along the centre and despite them being about 8ft high it is all to easy to hit them. The only disadvantage is that they need cleaning every so often - a bit of dust but mainly dead insects.

Misterfish