They look excellent for the money.
Workshop Interior - suggestions and critique
- Thread starter Molynoox
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Probably after finishing this build you will be closer to that balance.
Ok, back to the topic at hand. For the moment I'll just write but if at some point you want a drawing or other clarifications just say the word.
As I was saying, my room size and layout is very similar to yours. So, imagine I'm building (modular) workbenches on the wall where your window is, up to the door, on the opposite wall and the one between them. I used your image as a reference. Bad design, bad perspective and bad representation, but it will serve as a visual aid to what I'm describing.
In the corner to the left, opposite to the window, I will put one of the dust extraction system, namely an industrial vacuum cleaner (shop vac-ish) connected to a Dust Commander DLX cyclone (link below). The cyclone is connected to a 55 gallon metal barrel with detachable lid. The shop vac will probably sit above it on a shelf or something. Corners are good for stuff that you don't move around often or at all. You can also use it for compressors or whatever suits your configuration. By the way, I forgot to mention two things: 1. I really like how you solved the temporary desk issue with the two Toughbuilt sawhorses; 2. Don't get rid of the bandsaw.
Next, I will build the table saw workstation in other to be able to build other workstations, obviously. It's the Paoson workstation (link below). I will also need to build a dedicated workstation where I will combine a planer (jointer) and a thicknesser underneath it. Then a mitre saw/pillar drill station (this I already have, needs adjusting as I changed the mitre saw).
The rest will be workbenches with drawers and storage space. All of these will be modular, able to be connected to one another. There are many ways to do this. One system that I saw on youtube and I really liked, but I don't remember who made it, was of fitting these modular tables with magnets. Pretty strong magnets but not industrial grade stuff, something affordable. But this system would enable almost any bench combination possible.
I know you said you won't be using a table saw and you'll be relying entirely on your track saw. I only bought my first track saw a few months ago and I'm loving it so if you can do this, that's perfect. If you don't need to cut dadoes and use various table saw jigs, you can manage it. Of course, your bandsaw will need to be properly calibrated for those operations where it will need to replace the table saw. Like thin strips, etc. One thing where a table saw brings extra value for the same space it occupies is that it can also be used for other type of jobs. For example, CMT Orange Tools sells something called a Sanding & Calibration Disk. Decently priced, perfectly flat and pretty thick, it is a disk to which you can apply self-adhesive velcro and sanding disks (I bought mine from the UK, great price) and, pam!, you just transformed your table saw into a disk sander. There are other possible applications but this is as far as I went.
https://www.dust-commander.com/gb/p/9-cyclone-filter-dust-commander-dlx-3760013430023.htmlhttps://www.paoson.com/en/shop-wood...kbench-with-table-saw-router-table-plans.html
I recommend you to use some of your breaks and leisure time to plan the dust extraction. As I said, that dust-free space is achievable but you need to work for it. But, of course, first is to be sure where your machines will be placed. I will not get into building this system because I am still learning myself. Besides the extraction system, you will also need an air filtration unit/air purifier. One adjusted to your space, not necesarily something industrial Record Power has a pretty good one, I don't remember exactly if it's an overkill for your room or not.
Regarding the dust extraction hoses ( I wouldn't go with pipes in such a small room, but it's a matter of personal preference), you can use some blast gate boxes (link below) and you also have some options for using the ceiling space as one of our colleagues suggested. You can look into overhang arms for a mobile solution or go with some ceiling consoles to make it fixed.
Moving on to the electrical sockets, I wouldn't worry too much in your case. Most of the woodworking machines have a 2-3 m long cable which pretty much covers your needs even if your workbenches are mobile. In my case I went for having sockets built into my workbenches. I'll get into this later if needed.
Another improvement I have devised (own idea) is to use some gooseneck hoses/pipes (those that are flexible and stay in the position you put them in, try searching for 'microphone gooseneck' - you'll understand if you don't know them already). In my case these will be used to hold powerful led lamps (those used for off-road vehicles - which I recommend for shop purposes since they are brighter and much cheaper than any residential/industrial alternative). They can also guide electrical wire, sockets, plugs, even tool or accessory holders. And, the most important thing I forgot to mention, these goosnecks will be screwed on to the ceiling.
That's it for today, I'll return tomorrow. Currently I don't have plans or designs for the workbenches I'm about to build. In my country it is extremely hard to get some of the basic materials that are widely available in the UK. For example, we have 1-2 providers of moisture-resistant MDF in the whole country and they only sell in bulk to big companies. So I need to search a lot and then adapt my designs to the materials I can find, not the other way around. But eventually I'll do it and then I'll share it.
In the meantime, I'll add two more links, one to the blast gate boxes I was mentioning earlier and one to a paint booth which you could fit in your room. Sorry I keep posting links from this guy, we're not affiliated or something. It's just a guy whose ideas and attention to detail I really like.
Feel free to ask me anything. I'm also burried in ideas and there might be a ton of details I'm missing at this time.
Have a good night,
Brad
https://www.paoson.com/en/shop-wood...iture-plans/105-diy-blast-gate-box-plans.htmlhttps://www.paoson.com/en/shop-wood...1-portable-spray-booth-air-cleaner-plans.html
Regarding the dust extraction hoses ( I wouldn't go with pipes in such a small room, but it's a matter of personal preference), you can use some blast gate boxes (link below) and you also have some options for using the ceiling space as one of our colleagues suggested. You can look into overhang arms for a mobile solution or go with some ceiling consoles to make it fixed.
Moving on to the electrical sockets, I wouldn't worry too much in your case. Most of the woodworking machines have a 2-3 m long cable which pretty much covers your needs even if your workbenches are mobile. In my case I went for having sockets built into my workbenches. I'll get into this later if needed.
Another improvement I have devised (own idea) is to use some gooseneck hoses/pipes (those that are flexible and stay in the position you put them in, try searching for 'microphone gooseneck' - you'll understand if you don't know them already). In my case these will be used to hold powerful led lamps (those used for off-road vehicles - which I recommend for shop purposes since they are brighter and much cheaper than any residential/industrial alternative). They can also guide electrical wire, sockets, plugs, even tool or accessory holders. And, the most important thing I forgot to mention, these goosnecks will be screwed on to the ceiling.
That's it for today, I'll return tomorrow. Currently I don't have plans or designs for the workbenches I'm about to build. In my country it is extremely hard to get some of the basic materials that are widely available in the UK. For example, we have 1-2 providers of moisture-resistant MDF in the whole country and they only sell in bulk to big companies. So I need to search a lot and then adapt my designs to the materials I can find, not the other way around. But eventually I'll do it and then I'll share it.
In the meantime, I'll add two more links, one to the blast gate boxes I was mentioning earlier and one to a paint booth which you could fit in your room. Sorry I keep posting links from this guy, we're not affiliated or something. It's just a guy whose ideas and attention to detail I really like.
Feel free to ask me anything. I'm also burried in ideas and there might be a ton of details I'm missing at this time.
Have a good night,
Brad
https://www.paoson.com/en/shop-wood...iture-plans/105-diy-blast-gate-box-plans.htmlhttps://www.paoson.com/en/shop-wood...1-portable-spray-booth-air-cleaner-plans.html
Molynoox
Established Member
Yes I've seen loads of John's videos, and also Dennis (my MFT design is inspired by him as I explained earlier)
I will be handling extraction with shop vac and may add a movable boom to hold the hose for the track saw and other machines. Similar to the star wars woodworker guy, forget his name. Oh, it's Lincoln Street Woodworks.
I won't be adding a paint booth as I don't need to spray anything
Martin
I will be handling extraction with shop vac and may add a movable boom to hold the hose for the track saw and other machines. Similar to the star wars woodworker guy, forget his name. Oh, it's Lincoln Street Woodworks.
I won't be adding a paint booth as I don't need to spray anything
Martin
Yes, that's what I meant with overhang arm.Yes I've seen loads of John's videos, and also Dennis (my MFT design is inspired by him as I explained earlier)
I will be handling extraction with shop vac and may add a movable boom to hold the hose for the track saw and other machines. Similar to the star wars woodworker guy, forget his name. Oh, it's Lincoln Street Woodworks.
I won't be adding a paint booth as I don't need to spray anything
Martin
The main idea with this small spaces is to think of our benches and furniture the same way as we think of Transformers. Multi-function, multi-purpose and modular. For example, those sawhorses you have are awesome but, at the same time, they occupy a lot of room. If you use two mobile benches instead, after cutting you put those back to the wall, the mdf or plywood sheet vertically behind benches, and you have all the rest of the space free again. I know the same goes with the sawhorses but if you do this with benches you will always have extra room because the benches are not Schrodinger's cat and don't occupy two spaces at the same time.
These are just thoughts, I'm telling them equally to myself.
In respect of the paint booth, it's similar in my case. I do need to spray, but I don't need to do it during the winters and I have a big yard. My solution is precisely what one of our colleagues said, 'use waxes and oils'.
For the last year and a half I've been working under a temporary contract and I did restoration of antique furniture. That way I got to experiment with certain specialised brands. Not just the spearhead brands/products such as Rubio monocoat, but affordable and great quality alternatives. I checked and found that you have a UK distributor for my favourite of these brands and I do recommend anyone to try them out. For the time being and untilmy new shop is ready I only make small items as gifts. One is a 2k hardwax oil very similar to Rubio monocoat but at a portion of its price and the other is a monocomponent hardwax oil. Both can be wiped-on or brushed or rolled and buffed by hand or by machine. I'll drop links to both, one from the uk shop and one from the international shop because I see the products names differ in the UK. Also, link to a good hardtop oil.
https://bormawachs.com/dettaglio_new.php?idrcvnz=49512K - Parquet Oil 2k (interiors)~4&lang=2https://bormashop.co.uk/interiors/1...lor_0000/1035-format-1_lt/1101-sheen_gloss-10https://bormashop.co.uk/interiors/1...r_0000/1096-format-750_ml/1101-sheen_gloss-10
I can also recommend their wood flour fillers, which I used in restoration with flawless results (and I'm no fan of fillers!).
https://bormashop.co.uk/touch-up-li...tml#/604-color-white_f0050/1080-format-125_ml
I know I deviated from the topic at hand, that's how my mind works when trying to see the big picture, I sometimes go to far in the future. I'm about to start planning with the pen and paper, and as soon as I'll have something worth sharing, I will.
Just a final note, think what you will mainly use your bandsaw for and how often you will need it. That should prioritise its position in the shop. Mine for example is used for resawing. Or will be as soon as I deal with its fence misalignment issue. For resawing I've seen lots of woodworkers keeping it similarly to the position it has in your picture above - near the wall, so you have room both in front and behind it. For curves I have a second benchtop bandsaw which I can put away after use. AND remember that some bandsaws are multipurpose as well - you can switch their blade for an abrasive strip (link below, for my saw which is similar to yours) and use it as a strip sander, should you need such a contraption.
https://www.probois-machinoutils.co...8-bandsaw-80-grit-set-of-3-4007430310811.html
Cheers,
Brad
Recky33
Established Member
I work in the cellar of my Victorian house and use the joists in exactly the same way, just one question, Are you sure you have enough drills ?
Buy non locking wheels and construct bench lift like the Properdiy on YouTube. Simple way and works well.
regards,
Dave
Molynoox
Established Member
Yeah that looked pretty cool to be fair. One reason I didn't go that route is because I wanted the locking function to be accessible. If bench is in corner or butted up against other things then you can't lock it.
It might have been a mistake because I think it would be far more sturdy with the DIY locks.
Thanks for the suggestion though.... It's not too late for my other benches.
Molynoox
Established Member
How best to attach the MFT top to the frame?
Options:
1. pocket holes - I would have to screw it from underneath, THEN build drawers below and then never remove the top!
2. create a little perimeter rail around the edge of the mft and simply drop it down onto frame which will retain it for sideways movement. I could then lift it off to retrieve things that fall though holes
3. hinged at rear - I thought this would be quite cool as I could use the space below the MFT top for storage of things I don't mind getting covered in dust
I suppose if I just had drawers all the way down and didn't have a sort of 'lid' at the top (above the top drawer) I could use the pocket hole screw method and just remove a few drawers to access the screws if I needed to remove the top in the future. It would mean the top drawer would be open to the MFT holes (sawdust portals) and the contents would get covered in wood dust
Or I could also have a removable 'lid' too I suppose, that slid out, just above the drawers....
Martin
Options:
1. pocket holes - I would have to screw it from underneath, THEN build drawers below and then never remove the top!
2. create a little perimeter rail around the edge of the mft and simply drop it down onto frame which will retain it for sideways movement. I could then lift it off to retrieve things that fall though holes
3. hinged at rear - I thought this would be quite cool as I could use the space below the MFT top for storage of things I don't mind getting covered in dust
I suppose if I just had drawers all the way down and didn't have a sort of 'lid' at the top (above the top drawer) I could use the pocket hole screw method and just remove a few drawers to access the screws if I needed to remove the top in the future. It would mean the top drawer would be open to the MFT holes (sawdust portals) and the contents would get covered in wood dust
Or I could also have a removable 'lid' too I suppose, that slid out, just above the drawers....
Martin
Molynoox
Established Member
Hi BradYes, that's what I meant with overhang arm.
The main idea with this small spaces is to think of our benches and furniture the same way as we think of Transformers. Multi-function, multi-purpose and modular. For example, those sawhorses you have are awesome but, at the same time, they occupy a lot of room. If you use two mobile benches instead, after cutting you put those back to the wall, the mdf or plywood sheet vertically behind benches, and you have all the rest of the space free again. I know the same goes with the sawhorses but if you do this with benches you will always have extra room because the benches are not Schrodinger's cat and don't occupy two spaces at the same time.
These are just thoughts, I'm telling them equally to myself.
In respect of the paint booth, it's similar in my case. I do need to spray, but I don't need to do it during the winters and I have a big yard. My solution is precisely what one of our colleagues said, 'use waxes and oils'.
For the last year and a half I've been working under a temporary contract and I did restoration of antique furniture. That way I got to experiment with certain specialised brands. Not just the spearhead brands/products such as Rubio monocoat, but affordable and great quality alternatives. I checked and found that you have a UK distributor for my favourite of these brands and I do recommend anyone to try them out. For the time being and untilmy new shop is ready I only make small items as gifts. One is a 2k hardwax oil very similar to Rubio monocoat but at a portion of its price and the other is a monocomponent hardwax oil. Both can be wiped-on or brushed or rolled and buffed by hand or by machine. I'll drop links to both, one from the uk shop and one from the international shop because I see the products names differ in the UK. Also, link to a good hardtop oil.
https://bormawachs.com/dettaglio_new.php?idrcvnz=49512K - Parquet Oil 2k (interiors)~4&lang=2https://bormashop.co.uk/interiors/1...lor_0000/1035-format-1_lt/1101-sheen_gloss-10https://bormashop.co.uk/interiors/1...r_0000/1096-format-750_ml/1101-sheen_gloss-10
I can also recommend their wood flour fillers, which I used in restoration with flawless results (and I'm no fan of fillers!).
https://bormashop.co.uk/touch-up-li...tml#/604-color-white_f0050/1080-format-125_ml
I know I deviated from the topic at hand, that's how my mind works when trying to see the big picture, I sometimes go to far in the future. I'm about to start planning with the pen and paper, and as soon as I'll have something worth sharing, I will.
Just a final note, think what you will mainly use your bandsaw for and how often you will need it. That should prioritise its position in the shop. Mine for example is used for resawing. Or will be as soon as I deal with its fence misalignment issue. For resawing I've seen lots of woodworkers keeping it similarly to the position it has in your picture above - near the wall, so you have room both in front and behind it. For curves I have a second benchtop bandsaw which I can put away after use. AND remember that some bandsaws are multipurpose as well - you can switch their blade for an abrasive strip (link below, for my saw which is similar to yours) and use it as a strip sander, should you need such a contraption.
https://www.probois-machinoutils.co...8-bandsaw-80-grit-set-of-3-4007430310811.html
Cheers,
Brad
all my workshop benches are on castors including the bandsaw so location has become a bit of a moot point. Everything will find a natural home based on how I use it, and some stuff will be used in multiple locations for multiple purposes. For example the mitre saw area is totally dynamic and the in feed and outfeed benches are designed to be wheeled over to the MFT area to increase the MFT range and also to create an assembly table area.
I will have 3 modular / mobile benches that are all pretty much identical (1200 x 600 and 950mm high)
Martin
I have some overhang on both sides of my bench and some buckshee box section so I use a lever to lift the bench at each side and then lock it down by putting a dowel in the leg. When I’m back home I’ll try remember to post a pic.
regards,
dave
flying haggis
Established Member
As long as the screws were properly countersunk is there any reason why the MFT top has to be fixed from the bottom? I would build a torsiom box with the MFT top so that any dust gathers in the box. easy enough to hoover out occasionally
Molynoox
Established Member
I was worried about hitting the screws with the blade. But now I think about it screwing from underneath doesn't actually help, it probably makes it worse as you don't know where the screws are. Sounds like I will be simply screwing it down.
Although then I can't easily lift the top and vacuum it or access the hidden storage area...
I think screwed down from top is best and then some slide out things underneath for dust / things you drop down - like your drawing.
Take a look at fishers woodshop on YT who built something just like that very recently
You could also splurge on the bench dogs magnetic MFT plugs - nothing will fall down and no dust!
Take a look at fishers woodshop on YT who built something just like that very recently
You could also splurge on the bench dogs magnetic MFT plugs - nothing will fall down and no dust!
flying haggis
Established Member
except that when you slid it out all the dust would fall into the drawer below............ sort of defeating the purpose.
could you build the mft top with a drawer immediately below it designed to catch the dust etc
Molynoox
Established Member
What you suggest is actually what dennis has done so I imagine it's a good solution
Hi,What you suggest is actually what dennis has done so I imagine it's a good solution
This is how mine lifts. Copied properdiy on YouTube and added a different method of locking it off by inserting a dowel.
regards,
Dave
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Molynoox
Established Member
SMALL update... but I'm moving forward - soon I will reach workshop nirvana
I managed to get a few hours in the workshop today and I used the time to build another unit.
I built this one in a different way to the last, a bit simpler and quicker, and using slightly less materials. I used 2x2 for the top rails instead of 4x2 and I didn't bother doing a torsion box for the top, simply screwed the ply down onto the frame.
It is a slightly different size as this new unit is 1200 x 600mm rather than the size of the MFT unit, which is erm... MFT sized, but I DID match the height of the MFT unit so that they can be combined into one larger assembly table or cutting station. Both these units are unfinished tbh, I still need to build underneath some drawers, cupboards or shelves - haven't decided what type of storage method I want under there yet
I have two options regarding what to do next:
So here is the latest status in the workshop:
I experimented a little with a temporary shelf under the new 1200 unit and it felt good to be able to dump things
Here is the overall plan:
green is finished
yellow is partially complete
Martin
I managed to get a few hours in the workshop today and I used the time to build another unit.
I built this one in a different way to the last, a bit simpler and quicker, and using slightly less materials. I used 2x2 for the top rails instead of 4x2 and I didn't bother doing a torsion box for the top, simply screwed the ply down onto the frame.
It is a slightly different size as this new unit is 1200 x 600mm rather than the size of the MFT unit, which is erm... MFT sized, but I DID match the height of the MFT unit so that they can be combined into one larger assembly table or cutting station. Both these units are unfinished tbh, I still need to build underneath some drawers, cupboards or shelves - haven't decided what type of storage method I want under there yet
I have two options regarding what to do next:
- Another 1200 x 600mm unit exactly the same as this new one + a little mitre saw unit (600 x 600mm) that can hold the mitre saw and sit in the middle of the two 1200mm units (the 1200s will act as infeed and outfeed).
- Finish off the existing two units with storage underneath such as drawers, shelves or cupboards.
So here is the latest status in the workshop:
I experimented a little with a temporary shelf under the new 1200 unit and it felt good to be able to dump things
Here is the overall plan:
green is finished
yellow is partially complete
Martin
Attachments
Last edited:
Seascaper
Established Member
Hello,
Dust and sawdust extraction is something you should consider. Plus I would allow an area that could be a multitask area for metalwork, and paint spraying. This would involve welding, metal grinding etc so it would be good to have an area that one could keep separate. Further an air compressor is useful as it adds extra tools, and some of the air tools one can get are wonderful to hold and use. Blow guns, pin guns etc, you can simple install an air hose and quickly attach each tool with a quick attach fitting. Choose a quiet compressor. Also look at the flooring, something like I have is thick aluminium with a heavy duty carpet between the rails, makes a big difference.
Regards
Molynoox
Established Member
thanks but I wont need metal working or paint spraying. Air tools would be quite handy and I like how light they are, but I just don't want a compressor.
Martin
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