Hoping to get some advice on a garden workshop. I will be getting a metal shed for it but it needs to go on uneven Tarmac type floor so wondering what feet to use which are individually adjustable and that pivot to accommodate for the ground? I am new to this so simple/normal terms etc would be great ha. Thank you
Workshop - garden/shed
- Thread starter Gazza732
- Start date
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lurker
Le dullard de la commune
You really want to reconsider metal
Hot in the summer cold in the winter and it will drip condensation the rest of the year.
Hot in the summer cold in the winter and it will drip condensation the rest of the year.
Mark A
Established Member
lurker":2k2vm4n4 said:
YES!
For five long years I struggled with a metal shed. It was only meant to be for temporary storage, but you know how it goes...
The good:
Cheap to buy.
Quick to assemble.
The bad:
It was not secure at all (the doors, walls or even roof panels could be levered off with not much effort)
In summer it was uncomfortably warm.
In winter every surface would be covered with frost, and when this subsequently melted it was as if it was raining inside.
It was difficult to fix anything to the walls of the shed as they were so flimsy.
Personally I'd go for a timber shed and insulate it.
Mark
blackrodd
Established Member
A friend of mine has a metal shed, As the other posters have said, too flimsy, not secure and condensation, loads, and loads of condensation.
Get, or make a wooden shed!
Regards Rodders
Get, or make a wooden shed!
Regards Rodders
blackrodd
Established Member
You can get a shed with a floor supplied, but not overly strong, so a decent base of either concrete blocks, sleepers,
or lengths of treated timber would probably be best, or even a compacted hardcore base, to set the shed on.
Glad you have discounted the wibbly wobbly steel shed, more like a tent then a shed!
Regards Rodders
or lengths of treated timber would probably be best, or even a compacted hardcore base, to set the shed on.
Glad you have discounted the wibbly wobbly steel shed, more like a tent then a shed!
Regards Rodders
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
I would forget about adjustable feet and do a proper job.
Your shed will last so much longer if you sit it on a row of water resistant bricks a couple of courses high. Cut and lay a course to get a true level, then add two more courses (150mm) and work off that. If you want a solid floor, then lay in a damproof membrane with excess over the bricks and fill with concrete to the top of the bricks. Arrange for the shed walls to overhang the bricks a little so that rain drips off outside the brick line.
Your shed will last so much longer if you sit it on a row of water resistant bricks a couple of courses high. Cut and lay a course to get a true level, then add two more courses (150mm) and work off that. If you want a solid floor, then lay in a damproof membrane with excess over the bricks and fill with concrete to the top of the bricks. Arrange for the shed walls to overhang the bricks a little so that rain drips off outside the brick line.
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Gazza732":3464o689 said:
OK if you are moving then you might not want to have a permanent foundation but unless you do somehting to support the shed off the surface, it won't be worth moving.
A course is the name for a horizontal layer of bricks. I realise the surface is uneven which is why I suggests cutting the first course to get a level reference. if the slope is greater than 75mm (one brick + mortar) then you use two cut courses.
There is an excellent thread on another Uk woodworking forum which goes into a lot of detail regarding the base. I believe too many links from here to there are frowned upon so I won't post a link.
artie
Sawdust manufacturer.
If you think you might be moving it soon, you could make a base from 4 by 4 ( 100 mm X 100 mm) tanalised fence post. It's a lot easier/quicker than bricks/blocks to level and can be lifted with nary a trace left behind.
Ah I see, I haven't the tools to cut brick yet but will look at that when it is longer term. Thanks for clarifying the term 'course', should pick them all up sooner or later ha.
And yes, regarding the 4x4s, that is what i was thinking along with the adjustable feet to counteract the slope. Will look into it some more.
Really appreciating all of your feedback and advice, thank you.
And yes, regarding the 4x4s, that is what i was thinking along with the adjustable feet to counteract the slope. Will look into it some more.
Really appreciating all of your feedback and advice, thank you.
If you go for the 4x4 posts route with them laid down horizontally to form the base then the best way would be to scribe the bottom of the beam to fit the contour of the ground to make the beams level.
If you don't fancy scribing then you could cut pieces of wood to put under the beams to pack them out until they are level. Just be sure the beam is adequately supported underneath to avoid the floor sagging.
Whichever way you do it, it will probably involve a day of messing about levelling each beam.
Another tip would be to check the level of the ground to find the highest point. Place and level the beam on the highest point first and then level all the other beams off that.
You don't want to start with a lower one as you may find you level a load of beams and then find your next beam is higher because the ground is higher and you end up having to go back and raise all the previous beams to match the highest one.
Hope that helps.
If you don't fancy scribing then you could cut pieces of wood to put under the beams to pack them out until they are level. Just be sure the beam is adequately supported underneath to avoid the floor sagging.
Whichever way you do it, it will probably involve a day of messing about levelling each beam.
Another tip would be to check the level of the ground to find the highest point. Place and level the beam on the highest point first and then level all the other beams off that.
You don't want to start with a lower one as you may find you level a load of beams and then find your next beam is higher because the ground is higher and you end up having to go back and raise all the previous beams to match the highest one.
Hope that helps.
