Workshop build

[wcndave]

I am really excited now I have some finance for my new house build which includes a 58 square metre workshop!

I was reading the latest BW with interest, and was going to source some suggestions.

At the moment I have concrete walls and roof, front is on the street and back and one side underground. The other side is my garage.

The back is insulated outside from one metre hight up, the side partially insulated on outside, and the rest not.

I have concrete floor which will be insulated with 5 cm foam and then covered with ten cm concrete.

It is very echoey art the moment.

I was thinking about osb floor, or a false roof,osb walls, no idea what to do about damp.

There is one window at front, so my bench goes there, which means fussy extraction will be away from ventilation. Will a micro air cleaner work...

The standard here is 3kw per house, but I have asked for a separate 4.5 to my workshop.

My heating is an oil fired unit as I have no chimney in there.

My main concerns are damp, noise and dust.

I plan to put standard soil pipes under floor before concrete laid for dust extraction in centre, however only have a 2.5"system.

Any good thoughts earn the right to stay at mine for a holiday in the Italian alps ;-)

That reminds me ambient temperature varies from -20 to +40c.

I Ann really excited about building my dream shop, so any suggestions gratefully received!


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[Steve Maskery]

Hey Dave
Go, go ,go!
I wish my new shop was in Italy, I really do.

Look into SIPs. In Italy I believe they are insulated panels clad in metal rather than OSB, but they do exist.

With much envy
Steve

 

[wcndave]

Where I am German is the first language which adds some complexity, however look into them for which part of the build?
I am 100% sure you can get free board and a tour/transport for setting up my band saw!

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[Berncarpenter]

Dave one thing i regret not doing with my concrete floor is putting in pipework for underfloor heating .If you need someone to cut the roof in i wouldnt mind a couples of weeks away from the dragon in the summer dont fancy doing it in -20 though.

Cheers Bern.

 

[rafezetter]

Hey Dave
Go, go ,go!
I wish my new shop was in Italy, I really do.

Look into SIPs. In Italy I believe they are insulated panels clad in metal rather than OSB, but they do exist.

Steve

Just in case you are not familiar with SIP's they are structurally insulated panels - high grade insulation made from expanded polystyrene sheets glued (normally) to OSB sheets as SM stated, with the added benefit of being able to fix things to the walls. I think Steve M means if you have the extra space to sacrifice, adding these to all the walls (and roof if you wish; do the roof first so the wall sheets help to support the roof sheets in the same way plasterboard is sheeted out) will create a total thermal break between the inside and out, a box within a box. They are not massively thick about 125mm or so (5 inches) so you wouldnt lose a great deal of space overall, but you'll end up with probably the best thermally and sound insulated room in the building.

If the ones over there are metal instead of OSB, then you could add osb to them via wall anchors - - prop up the OSB sheet against the metal SIP sheet; drill a hole through both into the masonry and use the 2 part epoxy anchoring resin to fit threaded stud bar, once it's gone off grab a large washer and nut and tighten down - do this in at least 4 places per sheet (this is assuming the wall the metal SIP is fixed to is pretty straight). I doubt a metal sheeted SIP has much support strength to it unless the metal is sheet steel, which I highly doubt, it's probably more like the thin gauge you get with metal wall partitioning kits.

A site with SIP info:

http://www.sipsecopanels.co.uk/

For the damp, you'll have to see what type it is, if it's simply poor air circulation and / or heating, then that will sort it self out to some degree when you begin to work in the room.

If it's penetrating damp (because a part of the building is under ground level - which is the more likely option) then you'll have to add some form of tanking to the walls in that area, plus some to ensure no creeping - I'd consult an expert to be certain, I'm sure there must be english speaking builders with good knowledge out there. There's various ways to do it, one of which is to treat the walls with a rubberised compound, after which you could add battens to the walls to true them up, and fix the SIP's to that.

http://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/existing-homes/converting-basement/tanking

Depending on the time frame you plan to do the work you could get a load of expanded polystyrene sheets imported, (maybe china) as that's the main part of a SIP, as that might turn out to be cheaper making up your own one sided SIP's.

Sound deadening is a tricky subject - it depends on what sounds you wish to deaden, but a simple way to at least reduce the echoiness is to hang or fix sound baffles to the ceilings and walls - these are simple to make and will help reduce the sound reverberation from power machines.

http://acousticsfreq.com/blog/?p=62

Sound baffles don't soundproof but they do reduce the amount of soundwaves bouncing about. If you need more sound absorption, the tiles from false ceilings (the white ones with holes in - like you see in american cop show interrogation rooms) are good to help absorb sound for a reasonable cost, you might even luck into some being thrown out from an office renovation - fix them especially to high sound transference areas like doors and connecting walls to other rooms.

Just a thought, if you are doing something to the roof - for added natural light, a solar tube might be something to look at, apparently they give amazing space lighting:

http://www.solatube.co.uk/residential/solar-pipes-for-your-home/how-solatube-works/index.php



Sorry for the wall of text, that's what kinda happens when I get into a good subject matter - super envious of you having a place in Italy (with a 58ms workshop to boot!) and the Italian alps are amazing - Skiied there once when I was a kid at school - might have been sestriere but wouldn't swear to it.

Don't know much about airborne dust control but a quick google shows that air purifiers with ionizers are good for particles other than wood dust, including allergens.

Edited: spelling and wording a bit. more info too

 

[Berncarpenter]

wow Raffezetter I think youve bagged the holiday with that post.

Cheers Bern. :mrgreen:

 

[No skills]

Found that acoustic link quite interesting, thanks.

 

[wcndave]

Plenty to read already! I should note that I don't have damp or anything yet as this is a house build in progress. Outside there is bitumen painted on, then some insulation but not all the way down, now they have fitted some thick plastic sheeting (very thick), now they are filling up with 1m thick coarse stone from top to bottom, then finally earth until 2 sides are underground. So I don't know if damp will be a problem, however don't want it to be too late when it is!

I would love underfloor heating however I can't afford this in cellar right now (the rest of the house has underfloor throughout, or rather it will do...)

houses here must be built to clima standard a, with regulations on power to heat and cool per cubic, air exchange, blow tests to ensure zero air escape, pellet heating system and so on... however the basement is listed as "cold"

I think cladding walls, sound, dust extraction, lighting, electrics and ceiling are all high on list but low on wife's so low on cost too!

All visiting wood workers welcome to stay, but I can't afford flights as well ;-)

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[rafezetter]

Plenty to read already! I should note that I don't have damp or anything yet as this is a house build in progress. Outside there is bitumen painted on, then some insulation but not all the way down, now they have fitted some thick plastic sheeting (very thick), now they are filling up with 1m thick coarse stone from top to bottom, then finally earth until 2 sides are underground. So I don't know if damp will be a problem, however don't want it to be too late when it is!

I would love underfloor heating however I can't afford this in cellar right now (the rest of the house has underfloor throughout, or rather it will do...)

houses here must be built to clima standard a, with regulations on power to heat and cool per cubic, air exchange, blow tests to ensure zero air escape, pellet heating system and so on... however the basement is listed as "cold"

I think cladding walls, sound, dust extraction, lighting, electrics and ceiling are all high on list but low on wife's so low on cost too!

All visiting wood workers welcome to stay, but I can't afford flights as well ;-)

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It might be good to point out that adding insulated cladding to the walls in the work area will have the added effect of maintaining a comfortable temperature in the adjoining room to remove issue of heat from one being sucked into the other unless there's already insulation there.

The sound baffles I posted are made from a few bits of timber and rockwool insulation, with cheap material tacked over it - each one would cost very little, but help a fair bit with keeping the sound levels tolerable.

It sounds like they have created a sort of semi french drain (a soakaway, effectively) on the outside walls that will help to reduce (or even eliminate) the amount of standing water against the walls, although the amount of runoff in the snow thaw might still be a factor to consider.

Underfloor heating can be retrofitted using what is essentially a thin blanket with thin wires running through, that you place onto any sub-base (preferably concrete slab or into a thin-ish screed layer on top of pre-existing slab to ensure maximum heat transference) and add floorcovering of your choice, long as it doesn't need mechanical fixings, like screws or nails. It's wired to mains power through a transformer, thermostatically controlled and very low power consumption.

http://www.warmup.co.uk/uk/underfloor-heating-mat-system.phtml

Lol, I didn't think flights would be included in the "prize" anyway, (but you might want to consider another planning application, for the small group of chalets you might need to house all the woodworkers decending on your place though! )

 

[wcndave]

I was thinking one at a time ;-)

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[Baldhead]

Dave one thing i regret not doing with my concrete floor is putting in pipework for underfloor heating .If you need someone to cut the roof in i wouldnt mind a couples of weeks away from the dragon in the summer dont fancy doing it in -20 though.

Cheers Bern.

Bern lets hope 'the dragon' doesn't see this post or your holiday may be forced and for a longer time than you originally thought. :lol: :lol: :lol:

wcndave good luck with the build.

BH

 

[wcndave]

This is what it looks like right now. as you can see the workshop will be mostly underground, surrounded by earth..

The yellow arrow points at the roof of the workshop.

Here before the cellar roof was put on gives better idea of layout and adjacent basement.

This shows what the final finish is for the basement. Just concrete.

 

[wcndave]

Apparently because the architect has insulated all bar one external wall, and the floor will be insulated, and the patio above will have insulation, there could be a condensation issue.

So we have to insulate the final wall.

This means fully insulated and the wife can't complain cos the architect said we must do it ;-)

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[RogerS]

...... the wife can't complain ....

You want to bet ? :wink:

 

[wcndave]

Latest update on the workshop, with some pictures.

http://offcut.mywoodworkmatters.com/wor ... -jan-2014/