Worksharp 3000 Price?

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

Does anyone know whether Rutlands have discounted the Worksharp 3000 in the past?

They're currently selling it for £229.95 and I would prefer waiting for one of their special offers if possible.

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... +ws3000kit

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I don't know about Rutlands discounting the Worksharp system but I am aware of some shortcomings in the system if you are looking to maintain turning tools with it. If you haven't already done so I'd suggest looking into the Jet and Record wetstone grinding systems, (or if you're feeling flush, the Tormek system), all of which are more versatile, but at a price.

Regards Mick

 

[Mark A]

Hi Mick,

I'm not a woodturner so it would only be used with chisels and plane irons. I've looked into wetstone grinders in the past but it's a large outlay for something I'd use infrequently.

I'm currently experimenting with a grinding jig I built for my belt sander; though until I replace the platen (which arrived this morning) I don't know how effective and repeatable it is. The Worksharp is just a backup plan.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Spindle]

Sorry Mark

Senility must have kicked in - I could have sworn you were just taking up woodturning - just ignore me as I mutter in the corner

Regards Mick

 

[Mike.S]

would only be used with chisels and plane irons. I've looked into wetstone grinders in the past but it's a large outlay for something I'd use infrequently.

I'm currently experimenting with a grinding jig I built for my belt sander;

My thoughts also. I currently freehand heavy removal on the belt sander but like the sound of a jig - please do share when your experiments are finished.

 

[Mark A]

Hi Mike, will do.

 

[chippy1970]

I've had the worksharp a few years now . I think it was 199 with free knife sharpener when I got it from Rutlands.

I'm a carpenter/joiner and do all types of work from run of the mill stuff to high end joinery fit outs. sharpening tools for me was always a quick whizz over a dmt stone once in a while. Now I've got the worksharp all my chisels are razor sharp and a real pleasure to use.

Get one you won't regret it and look on the net for tips, there's a guy called stumpy nubbs who's come up with a few helpful ideas

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[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

I went ahead and ordered a Worksharp 3000 on Tuesday, and it arrived yesterday morning. There are some issues which concern me, however.

I set about testing the machine by putting an edge on an old beat up chisel and immediately noticed that the spindle wobbles, which in turn makes the glass disc wobble. I continued sharpening regardless, but even after progressing through the abrasives right up to the 3600 grit honing disc I still didn't have anything approaching a keen edge.

Can anyone advise on whether the wobble can have any bearing on the effectiveness of the system?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Mark A]

please do share when your experiments are finished.

I'll take some photographs today for you.

 

[wcndave]

I got my WS300 at half price on Rutlands, with free knife kit, it's on sale quite a bit there.

The spindle is not 100%, however the disc is not wobbling, so i get a very good edge. Are you flattening the backs at each grit too?

 

[Mark A]

Hi Dave,

I don't have a dial indicator to accurately measure the degree of wobble, though by sighting along a ruler I can see approximately 0.5mm of movement, both laterally and vertically.

The chisel I used had previously been flattened, so I know that shouldn't be an issue. Out of curiosity I've just tried flattening the chisel on the Worksharp and it's definitely not working right - the grinding marks are all over the place.

Mark

 

[wcndave]

because of the direction of travel of the disc, flattening without making a mess of your chisel takes a little practise.

However the surface of the wheel should not wobble, so send it back for another.

BTW: when you sharpen a chisel you want both meeting faces to be treated the same. So you need to take the flat through the same grits as the bevel. Of course just like the bevel it's only the last few mm that need to be mirror like, i put a 25 deg on using the 120 grit, and then all the rest was done at 30 deg with just a few strokes. Once i got up to 6000 grit on the worksharp my chisels were super sharp. Can do them all (10) in about 5 minutes, no mess no fuss.

 

[Mike.S]

please do share when your experiments are finished.

I'll take some photographs today for you.

Thank you.

 

[Mark A]

please do share when your experiments are finished.

I'll take some photographs today for you.

Thank you.

Hi Mike,

I've posted the pictures of the jig in the Jigs and Tips section. Here's a link to it

belt-sander-grinding-jig-t79453.html

Regards,
Mark

 

[baldpate]

I don't have a dial indicator to accurately measure the degree of wobble, though by sighting along a ruler I can see approximately 0.5mm of movement, both laterally and vertically.

Mark - there should be absolutely no detectable vertical 'wobble'. The machine will never work properly with that much vertical movement.

The wide-blade attachment (this :http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodwo...systems-wide-blade-attachment-work-sharp+2020) is an add-on platform for a grinding jig : to work, it must be possible to set it up so that the 'table' on which the wheels of the jig rest is absolutely co-planar with the rotating disc. I have one, and use it, and it works : it could never be made to work if the disc were wobbling vertically as it rotated. Nor would the underside port ( the one with the preset bevel angles) ever work in these circumstances, for much the same reason.

You have a dud : take wcndave's advice - send it back and get a replacement.

 

[chippy1970]

If you are using it correctly you will have razor sharp tools in no time. So yeah you've probably got a dud.

The spindle on mine looks a bit wobbly but the discs run fine with NO oscillation.

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[Tim_H]

No wobble on mine and sharp chisel and plane blades. I would agree yours probably needs to go back.

I think it is a really useful tool, I have made a small unit for it and so far an extra 12mm thick MDF wheel with an inexpensive 60 grit self adhesive disc for brutal removal of metal for very out of true blades and I may try the MDF with honing compound that Stumpy Nubs suggested.

Alternative sharpening methods do exist!

 

[Mark A]

Thanks for confirming my suspicions.

I think the Worksharp is a really neat little machine and will perfect for what I do. I'll contact Rutlands at the earliest opportunity to resolve this issue.

I've already bought some 60g and 80g self-adhesive discs from Toolstation for fast grinding, plus I've ordered some sheets of fine lapping film from Workshop Heaven.

Although I like Stumpy Nubs' approach, I don't have anywhere near enough room to store anything like his stand, so for the time being I'll try a technique I saw on this forum. It involved using the tool post in conjunction with a basic honing guide to hold the iron in position, and to form a secondary bevel a little shim is placed between the guide and post - this increases the angle slightly.

Cheers,

Mark

 

[chippy1970]

Watch the sparks too especially on lower grits it tends to throw sparkling bits of swarf out the rear which you need to keep an eye on. Could easily start a fire if you're not careful. I found a magnet in a bag is good for collecting any mess. Then just carefully turn the bag inside out trapping the metal while removing the magnet.

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[MickCheese]

No wobble on mine.

Mick