Workbench top glue

[borntoyawn]

Hi all,

I've started making my first workbench, loosely based on Paul Sellers one, with the legs flush to the front of the top and a front apron with holes in, in case I need to clamp things down at the front. I've decided to not have a tool well though.

So far I've planed and thicknessed 14 pieces of timber for the top lamination. I'm worried about getting it all clamped up square before the glue sets.

Can anybody recommend an easily sorced glue that'll give me enough time to faff about? Or any other advice on making the top?

Thanks,

John

 

[marcros]

cascamite, or whatever it is currently called. I got mine from toolstation and it was resinmite, resintite or something like that. Even in warm temperatures you can take your time.

It will be slower to cure than the stated times in an unheated workshop, but will cure. Beware of the minimum working temperatures of most other glues, particularly PVA's. Obviously if you have a toasty warm heated workshop then that wont be an issue.

 

[ColeyS1]

Could you glue it up in stages to make it a little easier?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you have or could borrow a biscuit joiner it would help keep your pieces in line. As above, glue into pairs then threes or fours - setting time isn't so important then.

 

[borntoyawn]

Thanks for the replies so far....

I thought about doing it in sections, but I'm sure I read somewhere that this would lead to trouble. I've no idea where I read that (maybe I'm imagining it), or what could go wrong.

Added to this, I don't have a big enough flat area to do the construction (it's about 90" x 25"). I'm hoping to use sash clamps to pull it together, and then use smaller clamps to pull the ends level (across their depth), one at a time. I guess I'll have to do some flattening when the glue is set.


John

 

[marcros]

there is a simple method of making a clamp online that i have seen. and i mean a 2 minute job with minimal tools and not much material.

http://theapprenticeandthejourneyman.co ... el-clamps/

 

[Jacob]

.....I've started making my first workbench, loosely based on Paul Sellers one, with the legs flush to the front of the top and a front apron with holes in, in case I need to clamp things down at the front. I've decided to not have a tool well though.

It's more or less pointless to not have a well - it makes the construction so much easier as well as being useful. If you really think you don't want one I'd suggest you build it with a well but with lid on it, to be removed later (when you change your mind!)

So far I've planed and thicknessed 14 pieces of timber for the top lamination. I'm worried about getting it all clamped up square before the glue sets.

Can anybody recommend an easily sorced glue that'll give me enough time to faff about? Or any other advice on making the top?

Thanks,

John

PVA. I use it for everything unless there's a good reason not to. Cascamite is a problem with such a large glue up as you might run out of time, or glue, before you've finished.
The main thing is to brush it on fast with a stiff brush. Too much is better than too little, and be prepared for it to drip all over the place.

PS This current fashion for no well or aprons is slightly bonkers IMHO. Just makes bench construction and use so much more difficult.

 

[Racers]

Hi, John

Glue it up in stages, 4 or less then glue the sections together.

Pete

 

[marcros]

.....I've started making my first workbench, loosely based on Paul Sellers one, with the legs flush to the front of the top and a front apron with holes in, in case I need to clamp things down at the front. I've decided to not have a tool well though.

It's more or less pointless to not have a well - it makes the construction so much easier as well as being useful. If you really think you don't want one I'd suggest you build it with a well but with lid on it, to be removed later (when you change your mind!)

So far I've planed and thicknessed 14 pieces of timber for the top lamination. I'm worried about getting it all clamped up square before the glue sets.

Can anybody recommend an easily sorced glue that'll give me enough time to faff about? Or any other advice on making the top?

Thanks,

John

PVA. I use it for everything unless there's a good reason not to. Cascamite is a problem with such a large glue up as you might run out of time, or glue, before you've finished.
The main thing is to brush it on fast with a stiff brush. Too much is better than too little, and be prepared for it to drip all over the place.

Cascamite's tack time is up to a couple of hours- pva is much quicker isnt it?

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Years ago, I built my bench using a similar laminating method for the top. I used 3" x 2" redwood, glued with PVA (Evostik Resin W), and I've had no subsequent problems, even with the bench moved around between several rooms and currently an unheated garage.

I built my top up by laminating two pieces at a time. It took longer overall, of course, but having time to fiddle one slithery joint and get it clamped up true was less frought than trying to fiddle several slithery joints all going different ways at the same time. You'll still need to true up the finished lamination, but with care during glueing and clamping you can minimise the work.

PS - I built in a large tool well, and ever since I've wished I hadn't. It fills up with shavings, hiding your tools, and the working surface is way too narrow at times. My next bench will have no well, but I'll keep a longish, squat trough on a nearby shelf for storing in-use tools and bits. Some people like tool wells, some of us don't.

 

[AndyT]

There's some good advice there.
Cascamite type glue is excellent stuff and very strong but is hard and brittle when set. If you do manage to get a nice invisible glue line then that should not be a problem but PVA is easier on the edge of your plane if you do find you need to plane through lumps of it to get the surface flat.
Do look around a bit before you buy though - they don't all have the same setting time. Unfortunately, the very rapid setting sort may be easier to find.

 

[Jacob]

.....

Cascamite's tack time is up to a couple of hours- pva is much quicker isnt it?

PVA doesn't go off in the pot.

 

[marcros]

true, but it can go off in the as yet unclamped joint as you are faffing with the rest of the glue up.

 

[carlb40]

If you look at the videos on youtube by paul sellers, he does mention and i think he does infact build his top in sections and then glue up the sections.

If you have either a biscuit jointer or router. You could use biscuits or even a full length spline to aid lining up

 

[eribaMotters]

I use Titebond 3 for everything. Good initial tack and long open time seem a contradiction but appear to be true. I also like the lack of creep on wide M&T joints in doors. Some details here - http://www.axminster.co.uk/titebond-tit ... prod29225/
I would also as suggested above clamp up in batches with the addition of biscuit joints for alignment. A tool well is not for me, but should in theory give a flatter top over time as less timber to expand/contract or cup.

Colin

 

[marcus]

I built in a large tool well, and ever since I've wished I hadn't. It fills up with shavings, hiding your tools, and the working surface is way too narrow at times.

+1 to that, I find them a total PITA for exactly those reasons.

Another vote for cascamite from me!

 

[marcus]

.... or if you want to use a PVA you could try Titebond Extend:

http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=d7c6f86b-93cc-4400-99ed-79f8a75a2e95

But there's a lot to be said for gluing up in stages

 

[ColeyS1]

Perhaps go the other way and use polyurethane glue- the five minute stuff. Then you could clamp one piece at a time. Ive never had any problems using pu on softwood ( if that's what youre using ?) Sometimes if theres slippy sloppy issues I drive a nail in the ends, then youve only got the middle to tap down flush. Trim off the ends ( avoiding the nails :lol: ) & jobs a goodun ;-)

 

[orchard]

--just be careful with foaming PU (which I used as a noob), it foamed and solidified between one of my boards and clamp, raising it 2mm at one end whilst the boards themselves were still floating, lol...

 

[Phil Pascoe]

.......and wear gloves.