Woodturning Chisel Sharpening Jigs.

[Blucher]

I am looking at purchasing one of these items
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/wood...286&&clkid=4853210409943009763&_qi=RTM1575341

What is the general opinion of the forum about these devices. To get the best out of your tools they need to be sharp, and I know I am not all that good on grindstones.
My main concern about this item is that if the tip of the tool were to accidentally "dig in" to the stone, unlike the throwback you would likely get if the item was simply hand held, on this item there is no backward movement to go, and it is possible (imho) that with no place to go, the tool would simply dig in to the stone causing the stone to explode. Is this not therefore a potentially dangerous woodworking tool..

 

[Spindle]

Hi

This type of sharpening jig is in common use - however I do share your concerns regarding what may happen in the event of a dig in, (the greater the angle being ground the more chance there will be of an occurrence). If I were to go down this sharpening route I'd consider reversing the direction of the grinding wheels, (by spinning the base 180 degrees), there are associated issues when doing this, spark and debris shielding, edge overheating on carbon steel, but I'd prefer to work through these rather than worry about a dig in.

Regards Mick

 

[nev]

Yes they can dig in and yes they do, DAMHIKT
I now use the tiltable platform for all (bowl, roughing, flat scraper, round scraper, parting tools) gouges bar spindle gouges.


Edit: In fairness to the gent on ebay I had my mishap with the Wolverine jig, not one of his.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Having had Nev confirm my suspicions that these systems can cause dig ins it's 'comforting' to see the system advertised in use with the wheel guard removed :shock: :shock:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/wood-lathe-ch ... RTM1575341

Regards Mick

 

[MMUK]

Hi

Having had Nev confirm my suspicions that these systems can cause dig ins it's 'comforting' to see the system advertised in use with the wheel guard removed :shock: :shock:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/wood-lathe-ch ... RTM1575341

Regards Mick

That looks REALLY safe :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:


Surely an easier and cheaper option would be to have an adjustable angled rest in front of the wheel?

 

[blackrodd]

I'm firmly in the grinding the proper way by hand, I've never had a dig in yet!
Some of this kit looks really dangerous, and perhaps ought not be for sale

Regards Rodders

 

[Grahamshed]

From what I can see this jig doesn't look any different, or more dangerous, than the many other similar big name ones that cost a great deal more.
Seems like a pretty good deal to me.

 

[MMUK]

Maybe so but from what I can see that eBay one is bloody lethal!

 

[Grahamshed]

How is it different to the Wolverine and all the others ? Ok the guards are off the wheel but that may just be for clearer photos

 

[Spindle]

How is it different to the Wolverine and all the others ? Ok the guards are off the wheel but that may just be for clearer photos

Hi

I don't think it is fundamentally different from other versions but in my opinion all versions have the potential to dig in.

Oh!! and I'd suggest the guard has been removed because the wheel width is too large :wink: :wink:

Regards Mick

 

[procell]

An alternative solution is to go for a wet stone system. This has the advantage that the stone is rotating in the opposite direction, its rotating a lot slower and as it is water cooled at all times you don't risk over heating the tool. The down side is they are more expensive and the jigs for sharpening turning tools are extras and not cheap either. I am very happy with the Jet system I have but have plumped for the Tormek jigs as they seem better designed and built.

 

[Woodmonkey]

I've got one of these, it works well. If used at the correct angle I don't think a dig in would occur, as Mick says its no different from other available sharpening jigs. Because of the nature of the jig it is repeatable every time, so if it doesn't dig in the first time you use it there's no reason it will the next time.

 

[nicguthrie]

I use the Tormek (water wheel) type jigs, with an adapter to make then compatible with my work sharp grinder/sharpener. Works like a dream, no potential for dig in.

These jigs can also be used with "normal" grinding wheels etc, there are many appropriate conversion kits. The shape of the jigs seemed "safer" to me than the wolverine style, and seemed to allow you closer to the tool tip, to see what's going on.

Jet make a similar system for half the price or less than the Tormek ones. I chose the Tormek over the jet simply because the most complex jet one - for bowl gouges etc requires held firmly in place, whereas the Tormek's equivalent joint is captive in use.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[Robbo3]

I presume the guard has been removed because the seller has added a wide wheel to the grinder.

At £30 + £6 p&p I would bite his hand off. The APTC Storme is nearly £97 but does have more parts & a better gouge holder.

The only tool you will struggle with on the system as it stands, is a wide skew where the handle really needs to be outside the centre line for the bevel to be horizontal across the wheel - but it's not difficult to make an additional support with a socket on either side. For another £30 you can have an adjustable flat table.

One thing to watch for with this type of gouge holder is how it centralizes the gouge. If it only relies on the threaded rod locating in the flute, then it is possible that the gouge tip can be off to one side. Tormek, Sorby, ect. overcome this problem by using an inverted top hat washer that rests across the top of the gouge to level it. A suitably sized washer or flat piece of metal for example, can also be used but is more fiddly. I say suitable sized because the washer may hit the sides of the jig before a small gouge is clamped.

If at a later date you decide that the gouge jig is too basic, or perhaps you want to make your own, then the system will allow you to change without any problems.

 

[Grahamshed]

I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.

 

[Jacob]

I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.

It gives a flat bevel for a start, which is a big advantage. The deep hollow grind of a 6" bench grinder is not good IMHO. It's also easy to use freehand, either using the rest or nothing at all, and saves fiddling about with jigs. Previously I was using a belt sander but there is a fire risk - mainly the risk of destroying the machine itself with sparks on plastic casings.

 

[Grahamshed]

I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.

It gives a flat bevel for a start, which is a big advantage. The deep hollow grind of a 6" bench grinder is not good IMHO. It's also easy to use freehand, either using the rest or nothing at all, and saves fiddling about with jigs. Previously I was using a belt sander but there is a fire risk - mainly the risk of destroying the machine itself with sparks on plastic casings.

Thanks for that Jacob. I WAS looking for justification really.

 

[Rhossydd]

Whilst the eBay jig is good value compared to similar retail products, I too share the OP's concern about the risks of that style of jig. Whilst carefully used it's probably a good reliable way to sharpen tools, one moment of distraction or heavy handedness could have grim consequences.

As an alternative have you considered building your own jig system ?
When I first started turning I built a system that has worked well for me and cost effectively nothing.
The grinder is mounted on a base block (as most systems need). Then I made a dovetailed slot in a piece of spare PAR timber that ran across the front of the grinder square to the wheels screwed down to the base.
Then I made blocks with dovetailed bases that slide into the slot on the base as needed. One for scrapers, a couple for gouges at different angles. Tools are just held against the blocks and brought up to the wheel to sharpen.
The dovetail holds the block at a fixed distance from the wheel and there's no flex in the blocks to speak of (unlike some of the platform style jigs I've tried).

The picture below shows the system I've just discarded after 25yrs. Yes, it looks rubbish now, but the idea works fine. I ditched it because the grinding wheels had finally worn down so far that the grinding angles have drifted too far off, plus, as you can see, the base has suffered some damage. I'm just starting to build a new system with a few refinements.

 

[Grahamshed]

An interesting concept and relatively easy to make by the look of it. What refinements d you have planned for the mark 2 ?

 

[Rhossydd]

What refinements d you have planned for the mark 2 ?

Making it look nicer ? ;-)

Seriously: Building the base from something more substantial chipboard, adding some sort of fingernail grind jig, plus generally making the whole thing more carefully.
Given the slap dash method of construction, it's delivered fantastic service for far longer than I'd anticipated. Sometimes simple works well.