Wooden vice screw: what to use to prevent it jamming?

[ChippyKlutz]

As a novice, my first project of course, had to be a bench and, rather ambitiously, I've chosen to attempt to make a wooden face vice. I purchased a proprietary screw and nut a month or so ago and finally got around to start the fitting today.

Unfortunately, after some time in my less than well insulated workshop, the screw and nut had become jammed together. I managed to separate them and the screw is now reposing in the kitchen, basking in the warmth of the Rayburn, since I can only assume that they have absorbed moisture and swollen whilst waiting to be used.

Trouble is of course, when I again bring the components to the workshop, it's likely to happen again. What's the standard wisdom for this situation? What can I coat the screw and nut with to prevent them swelling and jamming again?

 

[AndyT]

The trouble is, you want to be able to use the screw in your workshop all year round. As far as I know, no applied finish will completely prevent the wood taking up moisture and expanding.

If I were you, I would leave screw and nut, separated, in the workshop for a couple of weeks, then remove enough wood to let them work together comfortably.

I had to do this with one of the matching screws on a Moxon type vice. I used a cheap coarse triangular needle file to work around one side of the external screw thread, following the helical surface all the way along. (Opening up the internal thread in the nut looks like less work but I could not see a way to do it. I've since found that it could be possible if you have a thread chaser of the matching size, but that's unlikely.)

It's a frustrating job as it's impossible to see where the thread is binding, but there is enough margin for error on a big wooden thread and it's not necessary to have a perfect match for a vice screw to work.

One last thought. If you bought the bits from Richard Maguire, it would be worth asking him about it. He might be able to rework them with the right tap and die they were made with.

 

[Droogs]

I to have a wksp prone to wide changes in temp and humidity, it's right on the seashore, I use a lot of wooden threaded clamps and threads etc. Generally, after they are made, I soak the parts in linseed oil for a week. Clean them off with acetone and then cover the nut thread in very thin CA glue. I've found this generally limits any significant movement and binding. hth

 

[ChippyKlutz]

Thanks guys, both look like useful routes to go. The fine file answer had sort of occurred to me but sounds like hard work and is probably a last resort. Droogs - what is "CA glue"?

 

[AndyT]

Not a fine file, unless you want to spend a really long time unclogging it - a small one, but coarse. You could also use a stick planed to 60° with sandpaper stuck on.

 

[bugbear]

Thanks guys, both look like useful routes to go. The fine file answer had sort of occurred to me but sounds like hard work and is probably a last resort. Droogs - what is "CA glue"?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

BugBear

 

[ChippyKlutz]

Ah, live and learn - thanks BB!

Andy - yes sorry, I was being lazy - you did of course say 'a coarse file'. I was just thinking of a fairly small file.

Incidentally, when I first encountered the problem, my immediate thought was that I needed something like car engine valve lapping paste to act as a cutting lubricant. I promptly discounted using such stuff because it would make a hell of a mess and ingrain itself into the wood.

However, as well as posting here, I also emailed Lake Erie Toolworks, who manufactured the stuff. To my surprise, I got a quick response, saying to do as they do and use loose pumice powder. They even undertook to send me some. Good customer service.

So I shall await the delivery of the pumice and see how that goes.

 

[Droogs]

thanks BB saved me doing same