Wooden Shelf Brackets

[wizer]

Hi Guys

i would like to make some shelf brackets out of oak. This is the sort of thing

I'm a bit confused as to how I am going to fit them to the wall. It seems in the above pic that a plate is screwed to the wall and then the bracket slots into dowels? Is this an easy option?

Any advice here would be appreciated.

TIA

 

[SP]

Hi Wizer,

Think I'd have a go at clamping the back plate to the bracket and drilling through the plate into the bracket at an angle. The two holes would then line up exactly when the dowel is inserted.

Good luck with it.

 

[Slim]

I don't know if it's an easy option, but I suspect it is the only option if you want to hide the screws and be able to remove the brackets later.

 

[wizer]

Thanks SP That seems like the way to do it. Would be concerned about getting the angle right.

How about a housed dovetail?

 

[WellsWood]

Personally I'd go for the dovetail if you want to hide the fixings. Make a stopped sliding dovetail from the top of the plate, and screw the plate to the wall through the back of the housing. Then when you slide the bracket section on they'll be concealed.

Easy peasy with a router table and bandsaw :wink:

 

[wizer]

yes this might be the first outing for my NEW BANDSAW

I think I can work out how to route the sliding dovetail on the plate using the RT. But is there a science behind the pin? Trial and error?

Also should I

1. Bandsaw each of the 4 brackets individually.

2. Stack 2 at a time on the bandsaw

3. Bandsaw an mdf tempate and then use the router table to make exact copies.

TIA

 

[ByronBlack]

I agree totally with Mark here. I have a number of these shelves at the moment (bought from B&Q - but crappy pine) and they are all stopped sliding dovetails they are very strong, not sure how strong the dowels would be.

Also, for you'r last question, I think it depends on how many you are making, If you're making a few and plan on having more in the future, I think a template would make more sense...

 

[woodbloke]

I agree totally with Mark here. I have a number of these shelves at the moment (bought from B&Q - but crappy pine) and they are all stopped sliding dovetails they are very strong, not sure how strong the dowels would be.

Also, for you'r last question, I think it depends on how many you are making, If you're making a few and plan on having more in the future, I think a template would make more sense...

....and then cut them with a top or bottom bearing router cutter - Rob

 

[ByronBlack]

....and then cut them with a top or bottom bearing router cutter - Rob

Aye, which Tom if you don't have one, you can borrow mine as I don't have a need for it for a while (not many router based projects on the horizon).

 

[wizer]

Thanks WB & BB

If we are talking about a straight bit with a bearing top or bottom then I have a few actually. I have seen somewhere a 'pin' used when template routing on an RT. Do I need to do this?

 

[ByronBlack]

Tom, the top[Edit: sorry, not the top, I meant the router plate ] I sold you I think has a hole to accept a pin - I'm unsure if it came with one, i can have a look in my bits box and see if I have it, otherwise you could make one youself if you have some thread tapping equipment.

 

[wizer]

Must have missed that, will have a look tonight

Many thanks

 

[ByronBlack]

It seems it does come with a pin:

I'll have a look tonight and see if i've got it, if I have i'll put it in the post to you.

 

[j]

If it's the same plate as mine, then it's not a threaded pin, just a tight fit.

Anything that fits into the hole securely will do. Just something to rest the workpiece against while engaging the bit.

 

[WellsWood]

If you make your template overhang the work a bit at each end you'll have a lead-in/out area for the bearing to rest on before and after the cut, then you won't need the pin (you can borrow mine if you really need it). Make the template first and use it to mark around on the workpiece, then bandsaw just outside the line, install on template and cleanup on RT.
Do the dovetail on the bracket part first so you've got more to get hold of when machining.

 

[Chris Knight]

I've made the stopped dovetail versions in the past. It's easier if you cut the male portion on the bracket before you shape it.

 

[Lukey]

Whats wrong with a countersunk hole for the screw with an oak plug from the same wood?

 

[DaveL]

Whats wrong with a countersunk hole for the screw with an oak plug from the same wood?

It's a bit harder to finish as the plug will not go it until the bracket is on the wall and a bummer if you need to move the shelf at a later date.

 

[Lukey]

True true....

(Always learning ) :lol:

 

[wizer]

Byron: You included the pin in the bag of bit you gave me, found it last night. Thanks

Mark & Chris: Thanks, I will have to sit down and work this one out, seems like something where mistakes can easily creep in.

Will keep you all informed.