wooden buttons (plugs - mushroom-shaped) - do they exist?

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disco_monkey79

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Hi all

I'm currently making a TV stand with a flat face, and the back is going to be a semi-circle.

I'm intending to clad the curve with narrow oak boards, 8mm thick.

Gluing them on will probably be entirely sufficient, but being a bit belt-and-braces in my constructions, I'd prefer there to be a mechanical fixing too. However, I don;t want unsightly screwheads, or to use pins. The boards are a too thin for counter-sinking and plugging. I don't want to make the boards thicker, as it's going to weigh a ton as it it.

Which got me thinking - is there such a thing as mushroom-shaped wooden plugs, with a sort of dome head, that would act like a chunky wooden nail (except they'd need a hole drilling).

I've never seen anything like this, but it'd be ideal. If this doesn't exist, what way is the patent office? I'd make my own, but I'm going to need a shed-load, and my output is slow enough as it is.

I hope some/all of that made sense. Thanks!
 
Hi

Thanks, but not quite. They're the right shape, but the shank needs to be about 20-25mm long.

Much obliged to you though.
 
Thin dowel would work cut flush with the surface, but i think you are over thinking it, narrow slats and glue will be fine.
Are you tong and grooving them or using a half lap at the edges? or leaving gaps for ventilation?

Pete
 
When I was making my chair, I needed something similar to cover up an "unplanned design feature" I accidentally introduced so I made some on the lathe

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They didn't take long - but I only needed four.

I don't have any left - I just wanted to be sure of my percentage if you make a fortune out of my idea!! :lol: :lol:
 
You could try asking in the woodturning section to see there is someone local to you that could make them for you
 
Thanks all for the replies. I haven't worked out how many I'd need (2 per slat - one at each end) but it's be something in the region of 40-50.

As stated, I'm probably overdoing things (as usual). I was intending to bevel the edges, so they'd be glued on either edge, and on the face (top and bottom) where they touch to the cross-rails on the unit, effectively making one long curved panel.

I'll see how it "feels" when I get to that stage, and may end up using the dowel idea, but it's non structural so it only needs to hold its own weight.

Re air gaps - my work usually looks like it's been cobbled together by an amateur (i.e. me) so a small amount of movement will (hopefully) give it some rustic charm.

And don't worry, when I make my millions, I won't forget you guys
 
I would be thinking about movement across the grain in the slats, be it slight shrinkage or slight expansion, or both, with changes in temperature and humidity ?

If they are glued on each long edge (if I've understood correctly ?), and top and bottom, any movement at all, even if well dried stock, will lead to splits and cracking and gaps I would have thought ?

I'm no expert on the furniture side to say the least (hammer) :lol: , but I would be using T&G or overlapped rebates on the long edges, unglued, and probably just a dab of glue in the centre of each top and bottom, probably with a central small pin for reinforcement top and bottom, maybe even pinning only every few slats as the T&G or rebates would help hold the others. The tiny holes from the pin heads would be easily dealt with.

Somebody else that actually knows what they are doing will likely be along shortly though !

Cheers, Paul
 
+1 for not gluing the edges, the wood will need to move and gluing them together will make it into one wide board which will move a lot, and something will have to give.

Glue the middle and half lap the edges is what I would do.

Pete
 
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