Hi all. We are self-renovating a 1970s property (our first). We found floorboards under the carpet, redwood pine in good condition. We have sanded them down (belt sander, to 180 grit). We filled with sawdust and a cellulose wood filler but got lots of shrinkage resulting in gaps and holes between the boards. We plan to ultimately finish the boards with OSMO for a natural and pale finish. I am stuck what to use as filler, do I keep doing more coats of the cellulose (have done two so far). I also read OSMO have a pre-mixed water-based filler. Would this dissolve in contact with water if it was coated with OSMO? Anyone got any experience of this? Not having to sand again would be great if possible!
Wood filler dilemma - floor boards
- Thread starter racoles
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peter-harrison
Established Member
Hi, I don't think the filler will dissolve. When it says it is water based, it means that it's water soluble until it cures- like PVA.
I have done a few floors like yours and my solution was to rip long wedge-shaped strips from old floorboards usually ranging from 0mm to 4mm at the sharp edge which could be glued and tapped into the cracks before being sanded off. There's enough flex in them to accommodate cracks that vary in width.
I can already hear the cries of "but that doesn't allow for expansion!". All I can say is that I've lived with floors done like that for 35 years, and they are yet to buckle up or push the walls out sideways.
I have done a few floors like yours and my solution was to rip long wedge-shaped strips from old floorboards usually ranging from 0mm to 4mm at the sharp edge which could be glued and tapped into the cracks before being sanded off. There's enough flex in them to accommodate cracks that vary in width.
I can already hear the cries of "but that doesn't allow for expansion!". All I can say is that I've lived with floors done like that for 35 years, and they are yet to buckle up or push the walls out sideways.
HappyHacker
Established Member
What ^^^ said.
I do not think filler will stay in for any length of time. I have done the same as Peter on my daughters house and it is a tedious task but it lots better than the gaps and I agree with Peters comments on expansion I have had no problems years later and I would have heard if there were
I do not think filler will stay in for any length of time. I have done the same as Peter on my daughters house and it is a tedious task but it lots better than the gaps and I agree with Peters comments on expansion I have had no problems years later and I would have heard if there were
I seem to recall that some pholks used to use saw dust mixed with the intended "paint", varnish - or whatever, as the filler; and once it's dried (and thus set) blends in nicely. I think some use a clear coating (varnish etc.) as the solvent/mix and the do the panting/varnishing as per norm. Ideally using saw dust from any sanding done to the sed floor/boards etc as the main source. PVA may be (is?) also a suitable "solvent" here as well?
As others above...if the gaps is/are more than a little wide (define little) then a strip of wood inserted first to reduce s gap is alway(?) an effective part of the gap filling?
As others above...if the gaps is/are more than a little wide (define little) then a strip of wood inserted first to reduce s gap is alway(?) an effective part of the gap filling?
As others have said, if it's gaps that you can't live with, where the boards have shrunk , then its is a matter of gluing long wedge profiled strips of wood to one side of the board only. These are then are planed flush.
If it is simply holes on the surface then a range of two -part fillers can be used - something like Ebony, Mahogany and Pine. These can be intermixed to get the exact colour needed, which will be what the wood looks like when wet. Ditto the filler, as it is a lot paler when first sanded. Blemishes around knot holes can benefit from being made much darker so as to help disguise them as part of the imperfection.
If it is simply holes on the surface then a range of two -part fillers can be used - something like Ebony, Mahogany and Pine. These can be intermixed to get the exact colour needed, which will be what the wood looks like when wet. Ditto the filler, as it is a lot paler when first sanded. Blemishes around knot holes can benefit from being made much darker so as to help disguise them as part of the imperfection.
They shouldn't fall through. If strips are cut the depth of the floor board and a tad over the width of the gap - then, planing one side to a slight slope, will give you a tight fitting, wedge profile.
After testing for fit, the non sloping side has glue applied to it and the strips are hammered in place., which will push the glued part firmly against the board. They are left slightly proud, and can then be planed and sanded flush after the glue sets.
The gaps between floorboards are invariably filled with some sort of crud, Traditionally this was raked out with the tang of an old file.
It is a lot easier to cut a whole load of these strips using a saw bench, rather than by hand. It is also worth bearing in mind that there will be a difference in colour if you are using new wood. So, unless you are staining the floor, it is best to use timber of a similar age, to avoid the contrast.
That is so helpful thank you! That makes a lot more sense, I was picturing the strips as smaller than they should be. There's a service cupboard with gas/electric meters under the stairs with the same floor boards inside, so I might use some from there so they are a similar age. Thank you again for this
Thank you!
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