Wiring a switch into an extension lead

[Kev]

After some advice given my limited understanding of electrics.

I built a unit a while ago for my daughters bedroom which is a combination of shelving, cupboard space and a desk . The unit has three mini overhead LED lights above the desk space and a coloured fluorescent tube on top behind a pelmet, both of which are currently just plugged into extension leads. As the plug sockets are at the back of the cupboards and make it difficult for her to turn on and off she needs some sort of surface mounted switch to make life easier.

So the plan was to have an extension lead with some sort of in-line switch with the plugs to the two lights hidden behind the pelmet. The lights have fairly low amps (the small LEDs about 1.5A in total and the fluorescent tube less than that (21W,240V which if my understanding is correct comes out at about 0.1A). Is it safe to use a 6A in-line switch with a 13A extension lead for these lights. The extension lead will not be used for anything else.

As I say my understanding of electrics is limited but does this seem possible or a I way off?

Thanks in advance

Kev

 

[Dee J]

Inline switches are available for fitting into flexible cables. Most are designed for low current applications like table lamps. If you do wire one into an extension lead then make sure you fuse the plug to equal or lower than the switch rating.

 

[Wuffles]

You could instead run a cable straight into a decent looking fused spur with a switch on it mounted into a back box (which I am reading is what you were attempting to do with a light switch?), whack a smaller fuse in that and have the extension come out of the back of the fused spur and run everything from that.

If anyone ever plugs something into the light switch that shouldn't be, then the fuse will blow, not the wires.

Make sense?

 

[mseries]

Not sure i understand the problem properly but wouldn't a IR remote switch be suitable for this scenario.

 

[Kev]

Wuffles - think that makes sense but if I went this route could I not just use a 1 gang 1 way switch into a surface mounted back box or would there be concern with running 13A through that.

mseries - have no experience of these, how do they work?

Dee J - is it as simple as just lowering the fuse in the plug. For example if I used a 6A in-line switch and put a 5A fuse in the plug would this be okay?

Thanks all of you.

 

[mseries]

mseries - have no experience of these, how do they work?

Plug the device into the wall with the wall switch 'on'. Plug your appliance (or an extension) into the device. Train the remote according to the instructions (usually just point, press and hold down for 5 seconds). Switch the appliance or everything plugged into the extension on and off using the remote.

 

[Wuffles]

Wuffles - think that makes sense but if I went this route could I not just use a 1 gang 1 way switch into a surface mounted back box or would there be concern with running 13A through that.

You could, but make a break in the cable at the surface mount box to fuse it down using a fused spur. Would look pretty much the same as a light switch, with the added benefit of being fuse to the correct rating?

You could just put a 6A fuse in the plug on the extension lead and run it through a wireless plug like mseries is suggesting. Less mess.

 

[n0legs]

could I not just use a 1 gang 1 way switch into a surface mounted back box or would there be concern with running 13A through that..

Yes much better idea, there's some serious carp about with inline switches. Get an MK or Crabtree 1 way 1 gang switch with matching back box. Terminate well and ensure the outer sheath is inside the back box. Clip or restrain the cable so it can't be pulled out easily.

If you do wire one into an extension lead then make sure you fuse the plug to equal or lower than the switch rating.

Do exactly as Dee J says. Fuse at a lower rating than the accessories and cable.

In the extension lead plug, fuse at 5 amps and no more. Try a 3 amp fuse if you can. Marking the plug with a "Sharpie", with the fuse size would be a good reminder.

 

[WoodMangler]

Not sure i understand the problem properly but wouldn't a IR remote switch be suitable for this scenario.

I'll second this - I have my workshop vacuum-cleaner on one, saves an awful lot of walking back and forth, and the battery lasts ages. The one I use has a single controller and three sockets, so it can switch three items independently from the same unit.

 

[Kev]

Thanks all, will let you know how I get on.

 

[Jonzjob]

This sort of thing

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-Remot ... ght+switch

Plug it in the wall, plug your lamps into it and read the instructions. Dead easy, no wiring changes. I have 3 lamps in our lounge on a controller similar and it's just so easy. If the one abouve is a bit expensive there are others there too.