WIP cutting board (finished)

[moz]

Mike,

Not frustrated nor sarcastic. Just agreeing to differ with Dennis's theoretical, non-real world view which he is clearly wedded to. I didn't realise there was a waiting period to serve before firmness was acceptable. As a matter of fact I was very active on this forum in the very early days of 2000/2001 when it was a much smaller affair, before the majority here had even heard of it. I don't remember you. So perhaps I should get all shirty because a relative newby is giving me etiquette lessons? Other pressures have prevented posting since then but I have kept an eye on things so I am well aware of the sensitive nature of many members. The emoticons amuse me, lest anyone should take offence from any ambiguity. As a pretty experienced wood machinist, I thought I would give it a shot to see if I could help throw light on the subject, maybe learn something from someone else. It's fascinating how these forums always seem to go the same way eventually. I won't bother again.

 

[Chris_belgium]

:arrow: I've been reading this thread since it started. I didn't make any comments, as I wanted to see how the work progressed. I did feel when looking and reading the methods, that there was an element of danger in the way the timber was being used.

Just remember that if something could go wrong, it probably will. Stay safe!

Then we should all just spend our live on the sofa watching TV but then again we'd risk a hearth attack, wouldn't we

Just joking, your and other peoples point about the danger is well taken, and I will not use the setup again.

 

[Chris_belgium]

the fence should not extend more than about an inch beyond the cutting edge of the blade; you never trap wood between fence and blade.

John

This I don't fully understand, how do you mean 'the fence should not extend more than an inch............' the fence on a table saw extends a lot longer than an inch, or am I seeing it wrong?

If someone could explain to me what is meant by this, it would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Chris_belgium]

And thank you for that again IMHO I feel te setup as being as safe as normal routing on the table.

Chris,

you have received some quite harsh words and I commend you on your calm reaction.

I don't mind harsh comments at all from experienced people, I even welcome them, I do however get 'agitated' with comments like 'get yourself a toy work bench' or 'you'd have to be a total numpty to try this', comments like this add nothing, so when you have nothing constructive to say, just say nothing , that's my opinion.

I'm on a couple of other motorcycle related forums also, and there you really have to weed through stupid comments like that to find the advice/answers you are looking for, quite frustrating and I hope that this forum is not gonna go down the same road.

 

[woodbloke]

Interesting thread, and one that I've been following. Some really excellent advice from Moz and Mike G, well worth taking on board. I would comment on your shop set up though...the saw blade is shown unguarded and there is a huge amount of trailing cables in your shop...one of my pet hates :evil: There's an accident here waiting to happen - Rob

 

[Jake]

the fence should not extend more than about an inch beyond the cutting edge of the blade; you never trap wood between fence and blade.

John

This I don't fully understand, how do you mean 'the fence should not extend more than an inch............' the fence on a table saw extends a lot longer than an inch, or am I seeing it wrong?

If someone could explain to me what is meant by this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Have a read of this sensible advice on safe working practice with the tablesaw, and note where the the end of the fence is in relation to the blade. They don't expressly mention it in the text for some reason, but it is a safety requirement at least with solid timber rather than panel products.

Richard Jones (Sgian Dubh) wrote an article which explains the reasons well, but I can't find the link.

 

[Chris_belgium]

Interesting thread, and one that I've been following. Some really excellent advice from Moz and Mike G, well worth taking on board. I would comment on your shop set up though...the saw blade is shown unguarded and there is a huge amount of trailing cables in your shop...one of my pet hates :evil: There's an accident here waiting to happen - Rob

What's next? The sky is gonna fall on my head, so I need to wear a safety helmet in my own shop Just joking, you UK people and your HSE are crazy with all your rules and safety. I work as a commercial diver and have worked a lot in the UK, it's nearly impossible to do any work in the UK with all the safety rules! How companies still manage to make any profit, I don't know :twisted: But this is a bit too far of topic!

 

[Chris_belgium]

Ok, on to problem # 412 :twisted:

Made a bit of progress,glued everything up, sanded it with a Random Orbit Sander, got it nice and flat. I came back to it the next day and this is what I found

The wood was bought 'kiln' dried and then spent a month in my living room for extra drying. I have put all the pieces back in to my living room when not working on it. Is it the big temp difference between my shop and my living room that causes this?

I don't give up easily, but am about ready to throw this in the fireplace and buy my mom some flowers for christmas!

 

[Chris_belgium]

the fence should not extend more than about an inch beyond the cutting edge of the blade; you never trap wood between fence and blade.

John

This I don't fully understand, how do you mean 'the fence should not extend more than an inch............' the fence on a table saw extends a lot longer than an inch, or am I seeing it wrong?

If someone could explain to me what is meant by this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Have a read of this sensible advice on safe working practice with the tablesaw, and note where the the end of the fence is in relation to the blade. They don't expressly mention it in the text for some reason, but it is a safety requirement at least with solid timber rather than panel products.

Richard Jones (Sgian Dubh) wrote an article which explains the reasons well, but I can't find the link.

Thank you, didn't know this, will keep this in mind next time working on the table saw.

 

[woodbloke]

Interesting thread, and one that I've been following. Some really excellent advice from Moz and Mike G, well worth taking on board. I would comment on your shop set up though...the saw blade is shown unguarded and there is a huge amount of trailing cables in your shop...one of my pet hates :evil: There's an accident here waiting to happen - Rob

What's next? The sky is gonna fall on my head, so I need to wear a safety helmet in my own shop Just joking, you UK people and your HSE are crazy with all your rules and safety. I work as a commercial diver and have worked a lot in the UK, it's nearly impossible to do any work in the UK with all the safety rules! How companies still manage to make any profit, I don't know :twisted: But this is a bit too far of topic!

No... just, just an observation. There are no H&S rules that apply to an individual (as far as I'm aware) in his or her 'shop at home. It just makes sense to me to ensure that the working environment is as safe as it can be and that there are no undue risks that can easily be avoided. I'm certain that in your job H&S is not one of the areas that's sidestepped...so why do it at home? At the end of the day, whether you trip and fall on the spinning saw blade is of no concern to me...you've been warned - Rob

 

[joiner_sim]

Back to the original topic.......

As I said earlier, was watching this topic, to see how it progressed. And I must say that I actually like that chopping board with the different timbers. Probably wouldn't have it in my house, but i do like it!
As for the problem you've got now, with the board cupping....
I don't know how to remedy this now it is glued up.
But..... I can give some light on how it should have been glued up...

Firstly.... the different strips should have been glued up like so:

(
)
(
)
That would be looking from the end of the end grains. If you didn't glue up like this, then thats why your board has cupped.

 

[Chris_belgium]

If I leave it for a month or so and then plane is flat again, will the board cup again?

 

[joiner_sim]

I guess it would. Its all to do with how the boards were glued as the curve of the grain would be the way of the cupping. And if the boards were all glued up like:
)
)
)
)
you can imagine how badly it would cup.

I'm sorry can't really suggest anything.

 

[MikeG.]

It would be easy enough to slice it up again and re-glue, with the grain arranged correctly.

 

[ddashk]

but the board has endgrain facing up so surely cupping in the normal sense wouldn't happen

 

[wizer]

I think it's an error in the clamping during glue up.

 

[Doug B]

Years ago we had a butchers block type chopping board (end grain up) in a frame & that never stopped moving in all the time we had it.
All we used to do was turn it over in its frame & it would move the opposite way.

 

[MikeG.]

Chris,

you could try damping it slightly, then raising the 4 "down" corners on some ply packers (say 6mm), then clamping it in the middle.......so as to overbend it past the flat. Leave it to dry clamped like this for a week or so.

It may work (it did for a blanket box lid I made recently).......but I don't know anything about the timbers. They may just be inherantly unstable.

Mike

 

[eggflan]

Having just sat and read this thread i belive that Chris has taken some rather harsh words and taken them squarley on the chin :shock: We all need help and advice every now and then but i think the way moz put his views were a little harsh and just because he used to use this site before makes no odds :shock:

As for the type of wood used for this project ,, well it would not have been my choice however apart from the cupping i think it looks rather attractive and certainly different , which is what its all about sometimes 8)

Well done Chris keep it up :wink: :wink:

 

[CWatters]

Is it a case of the glue making the timber wet and one side drying faster than the other?