shim20
Established Member
what are they like i know there only small but they look perfect for making furniture, whats the motor like dose it scream at you? any info would be great thanks,
ben
ben
whos got a makita ls1040 mitre saw??
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The Shark
Established Member
Hi Ben,
I speak as a hobby woodworker!
I have the LS 1040, and have owned it for a number of years now. It does exactly what I require of it :lol:
The motor tends to kick when you first pull the trigger, but once you are used to this, it is no problem.
The motor is quite loud, but no louder than my mate's Dewalt I used to borrow ( anyway, isn't that what large stereos are for? :wink: ).
The only fettling I had to do out of the box was part number 67 which wasn't tightening up properly as it connected with part of the body, meaning the saw moved and didn't cut vertically. This was easily remedied by undoing the Phillips screw holding it on to the hexagonal shaft, moving it one flat round the shaft, and doing the screw up again.
http://www.powertoolspares.com/makita_p ... odelID=267
I am still using the supplied blade, and make a lot of picture frames. If you tape opposite sides together and then cut them so they are exactly the same length, I defy anyone to say the 45 joints are not spot on!
You have already identified the size issue, but if it is big enough for what you want, I would recommend it.
Malc :lol:
I speak as a hobby woodworker!
I have the LS 1040, and have owned it for a number of years now. It does exactly what I require of it :lol:
The motor tends to kick when you first pull the trigger, but once you are used to this, it is no problem.
The motor is quite loud, but no louder than my mate's Dewalt I used to borrow ( anyway, isn't that what large stereos are for? :wink: ).
The only fettling I had to do out of the box was part number 67 which wasn't tightening up properly as it connected with part of the body, meaning the saw moved and didn't cut vertically. This was easily remedied by undoing the Phillips screw holding it on to the hexagonal shaft, moving it one flat round the shaft, and doing the screw up again.
http://www.powertoolspares.com/makita_p ... odelID=267
I am still using the supplied blade, and make a lot of picture frames. If you tape opposite sides together and then cut them so they are exactly the same length, I defy anyone to say the 45 joints are not spot on!
You have already identified the size issue, but if it is big enough for what you want, I would recommend it.
Malc :lol:
tom owens
Established Member
I dont no if the models changed but the firm i used to work for had some fixed to saw benches and supplied them in vans to. They were good little saws for the money. All mitres were accurate. Think they paid £120 ish each but that was nearly 3 years ago.
wobblycogs
Established Member
I've got the big brother LS1214 version and I absolutely love it. There's a good amount of power and mitres / bevels are very accurate (mine didn't need any fettling out of the box). There is a little bit of a kick at start up but it's not a problem at all.
The only thing that I don't like about it is the depth stop for trench cutting, it's flimsy to say the least. Basically it's a bolt that you can fold out the way and screw down to the desired depth. The problem is there is too much play in the fold away mechanism so the depth can vary from cut to cut by up to a couple of mm each way. I might try fiddling with it again so time to see if I can build something better.
If I was in the market for a SCMS now I would probably try and wait for these to become available over here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I10K3N-UCnY (note: it seems there is a model sold in the UK with the same product code but a different design). I'd really like the ability to push the saw right up against a wall.
The only thing that I don't like about it is the depth stop for trench cutting, it's flimsy to say the least. Basically it's a bolt that you can fold out the way and screw down to the desired depth. The problem is there is too much play in the fold away mechanism so the depth can vary from cut to cut by up to a couple of mm each way. I might try fiddling with it again so time to see if I can build something better.
If I was in the market for a SCMS now I would probably try and wait for these to become available over here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I10K3N-UCnY (note: it seems there is a model sold in the UK with the same product code but a different design). I'd really like the ability to push the saw right up against a wall.
OPJ
Established Member
wobblycogs":2z6dewwr said:
I have a similar gripe with my LS1013. If you pull the saw down too hard, it will increase the depth of cut slightly, meaning that some of the cuts on a housing or notch may be slightly deeper than the others (in constructional or framing work, this doesn't necessarily matter). I've also found that, with a lot of use on the same setting, the screw will unwind itself - though, I should mention that my second-hand model was missing the little rubber O-ring which may prevent this.
A quick-fix would be to fit a nylon lock nut (Nyloc) but then, you need to use a spanner each time you want to adjust it. One ordinary nut either side of the casting also works well - but, again, it is fiddly. It's also a problem I've noticed on smaller, lightweight radial arm saws.
The motor on the LS1013 is a lot nicer than many of the other brush motors I've heard. Mine was purchased second-hand earlier this year for less than £200. Despite a few years of heavy use on site and nine-months in storage prior to arriving in my workshop, it's superbly accurate. I highly recommend them and generally have a lot of faith in Makita power tools.
If you really detest brush motors then, Metabo (formerly Elektra Beckum) would be the way to go (they're bringing out a new range with improved dust extraction, too). Though, I suspect an induction motor might add some weight to the unit and, without having used one, I couldn't comment on the accuracy of their saws.
wobblycogs
Established Member
Sounds like you've given it more of a trial than me Olly. I tried the depth stop on a couple of different pieces, found it to be terribly inaccurate and so went back to hand cutting tenons / laps etc. Although I have basically no metal working experience I reckon I could knock something up out of aluminium that would fix the problem. If / when I get round to it I'll drop you a line if you like, two heads are better than one after all.
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