Which powertool to get first?

[roflson]

Hi all!

I'm new here, and to woodwork. I've been dabbling here and there but nothing too serious. I've mostly been cutting things up with a jigsaw and doing things that don't require too much precision such as making raised beds in the garden.

I've just been on an evening woodworking course where we did a lot of the basics, joining wood, various joints.

However something that was always glossed over, was preparing the wood, as it was always either already done, or if we needed to cross cut a square edge on something, he would just fire up the table saw and it was done in seconds.

The things I have on my list to make are: Boxes (small and big), shelves, bathroom cabinet, perhaps a chicken run.

From this list, I would like to 'accurately' rip and crosscut. I put apostrophes around accurately because I realise for the money I want to spend right now, I may not get super accurate cuts.

My long term goal is to have all the tools, a table saw, band saw, thicknesser, jointer/planer, etc.

I've kept fighting with myself over which tool to get first and keep switching between them.

If I only wanted to spend £200 today on one of the above tools, which should I start with? I was thinking about getting the Titan tablesaw from screwfix as a 'my first table saw'. But some reviews of it are good, and some of the reviews say it should be thrown away. I'm not sure if it will just frustrate me as I'm unable to set it up properly, especially given my lack of experience.

Thank you!
Paul

 

[Tasky]

Being in pretty much the exact same position and talking with folk on here, I get the impression that you're right out of luck...

Bandsaws are useless for cutting anything over 1" thick, unless you have more than a 14" one, which will just about start at £600 for a cheap one. Apparently they cannot crosscut or mitre either and are mostly useless for resawing, despite coming with guides and fences for such, unless you have a seriously industrial one.
Your best bet is to get a busted one off eBay and fix it up.

Same for the tablesaw, it seems, except they're even more expensive.

The general advice seems to be find the best you can afford and then get the next model up.
Personally I plan on just getting the best I can afford, mainly because I cannot afford the next model up.

Having seen some Titan kit, even I certainly wouldn't go there, though.
I did contemplate a Record Power bandsaw, the BS250, but the number of people receiving busted ones and then busted RMA replacements was insane. Apparently the BS300 is better.
Another that comes recommended is Axminster, mainly for their excellent customer service.

 

[mbartlett99]

Having bought and subsequently upgraded a load of tools (I buy mostly 2nd hand power tools/machinery) I can understand the frustration of inaccuracy - it really takes the fun out of it. One thing I did get right straight off the bat though and which I will never get rid of is my tracksaw. Thats turned out to be the best buy all round; cuts sheets accurately, can move it around, now I've an mft top I can cross cut pretty well too. £200 would get a pretty decent unit 2nd hand (and there's not too much to go wrong) or you can get the Lidl Titan for I think it was £60 brand new - see Peter Millards review on Youtube.

You might get a bargain on ebay/gumtree but otherwise £200 won't get you too much in the way of machinery that won't drive you nuts.

 

[MikeJhn]

Bandsaws are useless for cutting anything over 1" thick, unless you have more than a 14" one, which will just about start at £600 for a cheap one. Apparently they cannot crosscut or mitre either and are mostly useless for resawing, despite coming with guides and fences for such, unless you have a seriously industrial one.
Your best bet is to get a busted one off eBay and fix it up.

I will leave answering that nonsense above to the more experienced Bandsaw users, but IMO it is nonsense even with my limited experience I cross cut, admittedly limited by the depth of throat, re-saw and even at times rip on my Bandsaw all with the right blade of course.

Mike

 

[ColeyS1]

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Met ... gJ44vD_BwE
I use it for ripping 90-95mm oak newel posts back on site. I fitted a tuffsaws blade to it- the one that comes with just looked garbage. Awesome piece of kit !

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[GeordieStew]

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Metabo-Bas-261-4007430304896-240V-Precision-Band-Saw?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuq2K076z1QIV7rztCh1pcQOhEAQYAyABEgJ44vD_BwE
I use it for ripping 90-95mm oak newel posts back on site. I fitted a tuffsaws blade to it- the one that comes with just looked garbage. Awesome piece of kit !

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See, that looks like it could fit in my diminutive workshop and give me a new toy to play with.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Bandsaws are useless for cutting anything over 1" thick, unless you have more than a 14" one, which will just about start at £600 for a cheap one. Apparently they cannot crosscut or mitre either and are mostly useless for resawing, despite coming with guides and fences for such, unless you have a seriously industrial one.
Your best bet is to get a busted one off eBay and fix it up.

I will leave answering that nonsense above to the more experienced Bandsaw users, but IMO it is nonsense even with my limited experience I cross cut, admittedly limited by the depth of throat, re-saw and even at times rip on my Bandsaw all with the right blade of course.

Mike

Yes, I used to regularly cut 2" - 3" on my little Dewalt three wheeler. My Woodstar SB12 will rip 7" although basically it is a crepe saw and needed more than a little work out of the box.

 

[ColeyS1]

My old workmate bought one on my recommendation and used the blade that came with (admittedly a fine tpi) Apparently he struggled cutting 2 inch softwood with the factory blade and it wondered all over the place.
A decent bandsaw blade really will make or break a bandsaw. I would seriously advise a tuffsaw blade if you're looking to see how good it can perform. I've offered to order him a couple of Ians blades......which i still haven't done yet- woops !
Use the blade that's included for cutting firewood and allow a tuffsaw one in your budget.

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[Tasky]

I will leave answering that nonsense above to the more experienced Bandsaw users, but IMO it is nonsense

Just passing on the wisdom with which I have been furnished by the supposed experts here... If there is anything more concrete to the contrary, I await eagerly...!!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd be interested to know who told you you could only cut an 1" on a bandsaw less than 14". :lol:

 

[roflson]

Thanks all, the band saw looks good.

Is it possible to cross cut long pieces (or short pieces) accurately on a bandsaw (say for making shelves/cabinets)? I assume I'd need to make some kind of sled and extra stand on the side?

Do people recommend bandsaws over table saws just because you can get a better band saw cheaper than you can get a reasonable table saw for?

 

[ColeyS1]

An extra pair of hands would help catch/control longer bits or just add an outfeed table to it when ripping. I'd imagine cutting long stuff to length on one wouldn't be very enjoyable - a chopsaw would be ideal.
I'd say a tablesaw is easier for cutting straight lines, just cause that's all it can really do.
A bandsaw will cut nice and straight, until you start using it for doing curvy cutting.- one side of the teeth will dull quicker than the other and make it a right royal pain in the backside trying to get it cut straight again.

Two ways around it- m42 blades will hold a sharp edge much longer, meaning it will be more forgiving going from curvy to straight cutting. They last much longer but cost a bit more. I find I usually kink them before wearing them out, which just comes down to me being a pleb.

I think the best way is to have 2 blades. One for only doing straight cuts (usually a wider one, but doesn't have to be) and a narrow one for doing curvy stuff.

A few years ago I did a large job which required alot of ripping to leave a sawn finish. It was ideal cause I could compare the normal blade vs the m42. The normal crapminster blade wore out quickly, but the m42 just went on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on ! It only became unusable when i kinked it changing it over for a different one. Doesn't matter what type of blade you choose, a kink is a kink and it just knackers them.


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[deema]

IMO the most used piece of kit for me has always been the table Saw, followed by a planner thicknesser. With these two you can dimension stuff if your making things out of wood rather than sheet material. I would advocate buying secondhand one of the well made industrial machines made by either Multico, Cooksley, Dominion or Startrite. I've avoided Wadkin and Sedgwick as they tend to go for premium prices. Of these, the Multico machines seem to go for the lowest prices on auction sites and for a reason I don't understand are not as popular as other brands. From my experience they are really well made machines, far better than IMO than anything that is aimed at the occasional user. I have seen in recent weeks really nice machines selling for just a little more than £200. I have seen them go for less although in need of some TLC (strip down, clean, grease, bearings replaced etc)

The Startrite TA series of saws are brilliant machines, I had one for many years, however they are recognised as such and tend to sell above the £400 level. However, again with patience you can find them at the price you've indicated (will need TLC)

Overall, an old industrial/ school machine is likely to be far more accurate, and better value than a modern equivalent for the same price. You will also have the benefit that by applying some TLC you will have a machine that will be worth far more than you paid for it. I sold my Startrite Saw recently for 5 times what I paid for it / spent on TLC, after it had been superseded by a much larger Saw some time go and I finally decided to free up the space it was taking.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

No, it's because many things you can do on a table saw can be done on a bandsaw, but not the converse. The only thing I really miss a table saw for is rebating. If you cut long lengths it is a bit wasteful as you have to take the first cut on an angle then square the ends. ^^^^ +1 for Coley. For general purposes, a bandsaw gives far more scope than a bench/table saw.

 

[Chris152]

If you cut long lengths it is a bit wasteful as you have to take the first cut on an angle then square the ends.

I hadn't even thought of that!

 

[Tasky]

I'd be interested to know who told you you could only cut an 1" on a bandsaw less than 14". :lol:

"Small bandsaws under 14" are for cutting foam at capacity, or 1" tall stock.
Even if you go slow on taller stock, you will be cutting into the thrust guide and making an awfully loud racket.
Don't buy into those ratings from any company as there simply a huge exaggeration.
That goes for the video presentations too".

................. :duno:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

:lol: Sorry. I did read that and wonder. :?

 

[Tasky]

:lol: Sorry. I did read that and wonder. :?

So is it true, or not?
Opinions on this stuff vary so wildly and unless people are being sarcastic for the sake of it, this looks to be one seriously expensive 'hobby'...

 

[Distinterior]

Can you post a link to where you got that quote from please Tasky....???? I bet there are more than a few members on hear would like to read the rest of what that person had to say on the subject and, perhaps to put it in the correct context....!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

We should be clear before this goes much further that 14" is the throat depth not the height under the guides. 14" under the guides is massive.