Which plane to use

[Corset]

I have been trimming down the ends of some boards to slot in a housing I have cut into a bookcase. I have used a record 044 to cut cross grain with the line heavily knifed to prevent tear out. This obvisually is workable but less than ideal. My question is, which plane is best utilsed for this purpose?
I presume it would have a knicker and a fence. In this case i was only trimming down a 8mm width so a 78 feels a bit hefty.
I know i could use a router but i am intrigued.
Owen

 

[jmk89]

For anything cross-grain, I use a #46 - the combination of skew blades and nickers (i.e. spurs, not pants) makes a great cut.

 

[Waka]

Is there any reason you couldn't use a shooting board with a #9 or similar plane?

 

[mr]

Is there any reason you couldn't use a shooting board with a #9 or similar plane?

I think the OP is talking about rebating the ends of the boards to fit into housings which are too narrow to accept the board in their untouched state (?) If that's the case I would, in order of preference; 1st enlarge the housing to accept the board or failing that for some reason use a shoulder plane along a batten temporarily fixed to the shelf as a fence, knife the cut heavily to start in order to avoid tearout.

Usual disclaimers apply of course

Cheers Mike

 

[Mittlefehldt]

I recently had a similar situation where I had to cut a dado in the end of two boards to fit into a slot in the bottom of a blanket box.

I sawed down to the desired depth with a back saw cross grain, and then using a chisel knocked off most of the wood, and finished with a wooden skewed rabbet plane. the whole operation took less than ten minutes.

 

[BradNaylor]

Wouldn't it just be a lot easier to make the housings the right size with a router and guide rail or on a radial arm saw?

Or failing that, I'd put a slight rebate on the shelves using a flat cutter on the router table.

 

[jmk89]

Or you could ease the shoulders of the housing with a side rebate plane (eg Record 2506)

 

[Corset]

Well the boards were some fairly cheap pine which i used straight form the shed pile without rethicknessing them. I then cut the housing with my 18mm cutter, some boards fitted some didn't. Also some of the boards had a slight cup.
The project was to make a bookshelf over a weekend which bar finishing I did so i was fairly chuffed but this section of the job bothered me. It seems that this may be a case of several different ways to do the same none right none wrong. A number 46 seems interesting (another plane TO USE :lol: )
oWEN

 

[Waka]

Is there any reason you couldn't use a shooting board with a #9 or similar plane?

I think the OP is talking about rebating the ends of the boards to fit into housings which are too narrow to accept the board in their untouched state (?) If that's the case I would, in order of preference; 1st enlarge the housing to accept the board or failing that for some reason use a shoulder plane along a batten temporarily fixed to the shelf as a fence, knife the cut heavily to start in order to avoid tearout.

Usual disclaimers apply of course

Cheers Mike

Guess I should read the post more carefully.

 

[bugbear]

I have been trimming down the ends of some boards to slot in a housing I have cut into a bookcase. I have used a record 044 to cut cross grain with the line heavily knifed to prevent tear out. This obvisually is workable but less than ideal. My question is, which plane is best utilsed for this purpose?
I presume it would have a knicker and a fence. In this case i was only trimming down a 8mm width so a 78 feels a bit hefty.
I know i could use a router but i am intrigued.
Owen

Wooden moving fillister, with nicker and skewed blade. Dream tool for the job.

Much cheaper and easier to obtain than the desirable, but rare and costly metal equivalent #289.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan14.htm#num289

As has been pointed out, it is possible to use a plow plane with a wide blade for narrow rebates, hence the recommendation of a #46.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm#num46

(I would point out to international, esp USA posters, that rarity of some tools is different in the UK to USA)

BugBear