which glue

[tender foot]

Hello to all ,

Which adhesive is best for glueing softwood mortice and tenons (used for making wardrobes).

all the best
tender foot

 

[jrlwoodworks]

titebond 2 is a great glue or any other brand of yellow woodworking glue

 

[Scrit]

Most easily obtained stuff is going to be a PVA (polyvinyl acetate or aliphatic resin, they're pretty much the same thing) such as EvoStick Adhesive Resin W (the green bottle, interior grade) which is used by a lot of joinery shops and is sold buy even the DIY sheds. For the ultimate in strength on traditional jointed work I prefer to use a UF (urea formaldehyde) glue such as Cascamite/Extramite which creates a weatherproof joint with a stronger bond that PVAs or PUs. This is supplied as a powder and mixed with water before use, so unlike PVA/PU it isn't badly affected by frosty weather so long as the can is kept dry

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

Agree with Scrit.
PVA most convenient but I don't like it for 2 reasons:
it has to be very well cleaned off with warm soapy water before it sets if you want a transparent finish or no finish, otherwise it can leave a permanent trace,
secondly it isn't that durable for exterior use, even the "exterior" grades, but I guess you wont be doing out-door wardrobes.
I keep checking out glues on various groups but Cascamite (vegemite wossitcalled) seems to be tops. People enthuse about modern stuff but never quite spell out the pros and cons. Speed usually not important for me as I may need quite a long session fiddling about with cramps and wedges whilst glueing up.
I also have a go with animal glue now and then and it is excellent. If I was doing a steady amount of internal stuff I might use it exclusively but for convenience you need continuity and a microwave- it takes some time to make a fresh pot full so not convenient for the odd job.


cheers
Jacob

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi jrlwoodworks

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil

 

[Scrit]

Jacob

Have you noticed that outside of the few trades people very few ever recommend UF glues here? I wonder if it is because you have to walk into a more traditional ironmongers and ask for it rather than just buying it at a DIY shed, or is it just that folk like Tommy Walsh or the Norm have never heard of it and so never show it? Either way I agree wholeheartedly with you about it allowing more time when doing complex frame and panel glue-ups - that's one of the reasons I use it - but being completely waterproof and making about the strongest join of any of the generally available glues is another.

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

Have you noticed that outside of the few trades people very few ever recommend UF glues here? I wonder if it is because you have to walk into a more traditional ironmongers and ask for it rather than just buying it at a DIY shed, or is it just that folk like Tommy Walsh or the Norm have never heard of it and so never show it?
snip

Yes it's kinda gone off the radar. Pity. It does have it's own little weaknesses though such as going off (very slowly) on the shelf once opened a few times. I guess it would last longer with a bit of care. And needing mixing in correct proportions - which can lead to the hunt for the measuring spoons etc.

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

i think the other thing to remember is that the tv shows demand solutions that take little time, hence the use of more simple glues.

also we are constantly being advertised to that something is the best, latest etc., and since neither cascamite, nor scotch glue have been advertised for some time, also both of those need special equipment,
even though they come free with washing powder :lol:

next time your wife buys a stain remover suggest she buys vanish. when its finished, you get a nice plastic container, and a great spoon for mixing.

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

I guess it would last longer with a bit of care. And needing mixing in correct proportions - which can lead to the hunt for the measuring spoons etc.

My supplier delivers it in a polythene drum not dissimilar to a Tuppaware container and inside the drum it's inside a polythene bag. I still prefer to rebag it into smaller bags before it goes on the shelf, just like I do biscuits, but even so it seems to have a shelf life of 12 to 18 months. And as to measuring spoons I need them (and a measuring cylinder and stirrer, too) for some finishing materials I use so it isn't really a bind trying to find them - they're always in the drawer under the sink drainer (in the shop). One thing about UFs is that it's good knowing that the joints won't creep - especially if you're doing laminations - unlike PVA

Scrit

 

[tender foot]

Cheers guys for all your advice, i would have posted earlier but i have been pretty ill the last couple of days.

 

[Scrit]

There is one other thing which was sort of missed in the earlier posts, namely gap-filling properties. PU is good at gap filling, but if there are gaps then the joints are weak, PVA is downright useless at gap filling, so your joints need to be fairly snug. On the other hand UF glues will accommodate slightly less than perfect joints (e.g. the average hand cut M&T) whilst retaining most of their strength, mainly because the cured resin is exceptionally strong against other glues. A small point, but another reason that trade users go with UF

Scrit