Which combination plane?

[Alf]

a Sergant 1080 a 45, then a 46, a Rapier 043 clone and finally the 55.

Now that's a gloat :lol:

Nah, that's not a gloat. That's the beginnings of a problem... :wink: Incidentally, "finally" the 55? Who are you trying to kid? :lol:

V, not 100% sure on the 50S, but I imagine it'll be short of the beading stop too. But if you can get hold of the other bits then in theory you could get a 50 that way - but ironically it's probably cheaper just to buy another plane. (bite little fishy, bite...)

Cheers, Alf

 

[Lord Nibbo]

OK I know it's not quite a #50 but what is a record 44 worth these days?

 

[JesseM]

a Sergant 1080 a 45, then a 46, a Rapier 043 clone and finally the 55.

Now that's a gloat :lol:

Nah, that's not a gloat. That's the beginnings of a problem... :wink: Incidentally, "finally" the 55? Who are you trying to kid? :lol:
Cheers, Alf

Whats sick though is how many different ebay search terms I have memorized for all the different names people come up with when describing one.

 

[Anonymous]

Be careful when comtemplating buying a 50 though. I've noticed with a few of the stanley ones( no wooden handled ones) and carters have problems with the secondary skate. The stanleys with wooden handles generally seem alright.

Just check that the second skate when its all bound up doesn't cup. I have one old stanley thats so bad that when you bind up the blade it cups the second skate a good 1/4" ! ...try and adjust with that side screw, but no help.

With that sort of problem the planes pretty much doomed for plough work. It'll work at making side bead cuts but thats about it.

Also, I'd make a habit of pressuring the blade down with a finger at the tip of the blade whilst binding up.....some of the 50's don't hold the blade down flat on the bed.........chatter business again.

Record 50 seems more solidly made......I'd get yourself a record 43 or a rapier equivelent.

Goodluck. There'll be troubles to iron out, no matter what you buy.

 

[bugbear]

Be careful when comtemplating buying a 50 though. I've noticed with a few of the stanley ones( no wooden handled ones) and carters have problems with the secondary skate. The stanleys with wooden handles generally seem alright.

In the case of my sample-of-one, not so:

http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswi ... 58#message

BugBear

 

[Alf]

If I'm understanding the problem correctly I think you might have an oddity there, BB. Possibly someone swapped in another washer to replace the original at some stage?

Cheers, Alf

 

[Pekka Huhta]

By the way, has anyone built different soles for, say a # 45? With the same idea as the nosing tools, but with more decorative profiles. Moulding planes withtout that plane part involved I'm planning to try a few, as it really sounds quite tempting to make only the soles and irons and rely on the 45 as a "tool holder" only.

I've got our house full of odd decorative profiles, but over the years many of them have been stripped off the house and replaced with modern ones. I've been making replacement sash profiles with a router and about a gazillion passes with different router bits when I've restored the windows. That's OK with very simple profiles only and I really hate that screaming machine anyway. The mouldings on the ceiling or around windows and doors would probably require several passes with several different moulding planes, as the profiles are very wide.

Does anyone have an idea how this could be done or do I just start experimenting? If anyone has built moulding planes, what's the best method of making the sole? I have used only a scratch stock with the few soles I've done, but does someone have more creative ideas about it?

Pekka

 

[Anonymous]

Be careful when comtemplating buying a 50 though. I've noticed with a few of the stanley ones( no wooden handled ones) and carters have problems with the secondary skate. The stanleys with wooden handles generally seem alright.

In the case of my sample-of-one, not so:

http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswi ... 58#message

BugBear

:? I don't think we're talking about the same thing

I don't know why your talking about T&G's and 44's ? Whats that got to do with the stanley 50 and the skate problem ?

Pekka. One way you can make moulding planes is with a 55. After you've made your blank, mouth etc, you just plane the sole with the 55 that has a blade sharpened to cut the negitive of the profile you want....or you can modify an existing woodie.

I've done that recently with an old rebate plane.

 

[Alf]

:? I don't think we're talking about the same thing

I don't know why your talking about T&G's and 44's ? Whats that got to do with the stanley 50 and the skate problem ?

You are talking about the same thing; it just happens BB was doing the grooving bit with a 044 but the tonguing was with a 50.

Pekka, funnily enough when I first got my 45 I thought just the same - nothing came of it through a combination of laziness and trying to achieve it without altering the plane. These days I'd have probably tapped the skates for some screws by now... :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Pekka Huhta]

We seem to follow the same lines, allofus

A #55 would be neat for making the soles if I had one. And if I had, I could try to make the moldings with that. It looks like a wonderful gizmo and am tempted, but on the other hand... I have plenty of planes already. And good shoes which don't slip on the slope

(like any of you would believe)

My example of the #45 isn't that "collectable", although it is quite complete. It's one of the last that they made, so it's not such a crime to drill a few holes to it. And my endless supply of old block plane irons will make good stock for the molding planes.

Hm. Maybe I'll give it a try during Christmas.

Pekka

P.S: Have you noticed that it's relatively easy to saw plane irons with a hacksaw blade intended for cutting tiles? Those round carbide grit wire saws for starters and a form-turned MDF grinding wheel for the rest.

Apropos the MDF grinding wheels, could someone find the links for me at the forum?. I don't seem to find the right search word and there has been a vulgar amount of discussion about MDF... :roll:

 

[bugbear]

P.S: Have you noticed that it's relatively easy to saw plane irons with a hacksaw blade intended for cutting tiles? Those round carbide grit wire saws for starters and a form-turned MDF grinding wheel for the rest.

Heh. Now try cutting an engineers (M2, I think) power hacksaw blade, which can be done (just...) with the same carbide-coated-wire blades.

I do this when making cutting gauge knives, and it's rather tedious, slow work.

The resulting knives keep an edge for ages though (don't they Alf?)

BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

You are talking about the same thing; it just happens BB was doing the grooving bit with a 044 but the tonguing was with a 50.

Cheers, Alf

I'm sorry Alf....don't think we are, just quietly.

The problem I'm talking about wouldn't exist with the matching cutter in the 50.....and the 44 has just the single skate doesn't it ?

I'm talking about how the second skate of some 50's bind themselves into a cup. Takes the skate line outside the blade corner line, such that its impossible for the plane to drop into the cut.

I'll get a picture of a dodgy 50 tonight to clearify. Whether there be any interest in it is another question.

 

[Alf]

Ah, I see. Well I read it as BB had run less with the binding-skate-ball and more with the assertion that "the stanleys with wooden handles generally seem alright." 'cos his wasn't.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

Thats fine. I still find these internet discusions a bit confusing. Everyones going off in all different directions all the time..

Anyway to clarify what I was saying with one of my duds....

Had this problem happen with all the 50's and there lookalikes excepting the wooden handled stanleys and the record 50. (maybe just got unlucky with mine ????)

Hate to see someone buy themselves a dud thats all.

That plane(above) won't plough or centre bead.....The first couple of passes maybe ok....but then it'll bind up.

...it be still ok atl making side beads because the second skate is tucked way behind the fence for those cuts..

..and it will still cut a tongue with the matching cutter I suppose (maybe thats what bugbear was getting at?) because the skates are well centred within the blades cut.

But it wont plough....which is something one might do with the plane the most.

You can make it plough, but that requires surgury.....have to either file at the side of the bed , or, regrind the plough blades so its wider at the blade edge than it is further up.....ie. to bring the blades corner out past the skate line. ...either way, its pretty fiddly,,,,doubt few would do it since its easy to stuff up.

Remember, this is all just an opinion. I don't want to step on anyones toes !

 

[Paul Chapman]

Very helpful, Jake :wink: That's one of the advantages of the Stanley #45/Record #405. With those the skate assembly isn't used to clamp the blade in the plane (as it is with the #50/050), so the moveable skate can be slid under the cutter - a much better design, in my view 8)

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Clinton1]

Pekka:

A video (my first video, so don't expect quality) on MDF wheel sharpening.
You have to register on the site to download the torrent video file, but its all free.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=101

Other threads are here:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthrea ... =mdf+wheel

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthrea ... =mdf+wheel

For all the video's: http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=101

Sorry for the off-site links, but I know the ubeaut site a lot better.

 

[Alf]

Hmm, that's an interesting one, Jake. Might have to go and have a dekko at mine now. Haven't used it much (certainly not recently) and iirc when I did I didn't enjoy it; this may help explain why. Must admit, like Paul, I don't much like the skates-as-cutter-holder design either. Should be an improvment, but I just find it creates extra fiddling - even when it works at it's supposed to.

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

Ah, I see. Well I read it as BB had run less with the binding-skate-ball and more with the assertion that "the stanleys with wooden handles generally seem alright." 'cos his wasn't.

Cheers, Alf

Absolutely; I have a dim memory that on one of my combo planes, the depth stop was very close to the blade; when the screw was loose (for adjusting the depth) all was well, but when the screw was tighthened, the depth stop juuust pushed the blade a little (tiny amount).

As anyone who's tried to cut a rebate where the blade doesn't at least line up with the body (preferably protruding a gnat's) knows, such a tool will drift out of the cut, a tiny amount per stroke.

Fixing this involved filing down the depth stop sole-plate a little.

Further...

I've now measured the washer in my wooden handled Stanley #50. The "full" diameter is 1.29 cm, and I had to file it down to 1.03 cm.

For comparison, the bolt head is 0.70 cm

I have no reason to believe it was swapped - the plane came complete in a box, and only the 1/4" cutter had been sharpened. (*)

BugBear

(*) I'd call that a gloat, but in the context of a garage sale #51/#52 combo, and Rob Lee's "plane table", perhaps it doesn't qualify these days

 

[Vormulac]

Hi Alf,

I've bought a Lewin (not received it yet), is there anything I should particularly look for or bear in mind when I finally get my grubby little paws on it?

Thanks as always!

V.

 

[Alf]

Hi Alf,

I've bought a Lewin

Oh lawks, what have I done...

Things to look for - the presence of all the parts. The beautifully innovative cams that fix the fence can drop out and be lost, f'rinstance (DAMHIKT). If it's in its box, take care not to spike yourself on the cutters (another DAMH...). Basically all the usual rules of setting up combis apply, plus you have the advantage of the manual being online now :wink:

Jake, I've looked at my (apparently) pre-1910 #50 and I have miniscule cupping but in an acceptable way - out at the cutter but in (by about 0.5mm as the very maximum) fore and aft. Older plane with heavier casting? Better made? Made while they still remembered why they did it a certain way? I don't know.

Cheers, Alf