What to look for in a pillar drill?

[matt]

Hi all...

Considering a pillar drill as a Xmas present from my wife. It's one of those tools I've had on my mind for sometime, however, I'm not sufficiently familiar with them to know what I should be looking for specs wise?

Grateful as ever for a steer re the key things to consider.

Cheers

 

[beech1948]

When I bought mine I had a list of about 18 items to consider. This was about 7 years ago.

If I was to write the same list now it would have only two items on it.
1) A reputable maker ...Fobco, Meddings, Progress, Elliot
2) A depth of drilling (that is quill movement) of at least 80mm.

This rules out 97% of the Chiwanese drills currently available as they fail both criteria.

If you are happy with a 50mm quill movement then OK go ahead but if you need more then stop and ask how deep can they drill.

Al

 

[Jacob]

When I bought mine I had a list of about 18 items to consider. This was about 7 years ago.

If I was to write the same list now it would have only two items on it.
1) A reputable maker ...Fobco, Meddings, Progress, Elliot
2) A depth of drilling (that is quill movement) of at least 80mm.

This rules out 97% of the Chiwanese drills currently available as they fail both criteria.

If you are happy with a 50mm quill movement then OK go ahead but if you need more then stop and ask how deep can they drill.

Al

My £50 Nutool does 80mm and is excellent. It probably wouldn't survive long in a heavy engineering environment but is perfect for woodworking.
I'd say low price is the main thing to look for. If in doubt buy the cheapest. You can always sell it on if you have to.

 

[RogerP]

I've found a spindle travel of at least 80mm invaluable - for me 50mm was often just a bit too short.
Ease of use, accuracy and robustness of drilling depth stop.
Rack and pinion table height adjustment.
Obviously spindle/quill accuracy needs to good - but most I've tried are okay for woodworking.

Most £200ish drills fulfil the above. Only you can decide between floor of bench standing.
The very cheapest (£60ish) will get you by for a bit but you'll end up getting some better.

 

[matt]

Nice and simple. Thank you all.

I'm currently using a Record DMS26 drill holder which has plenty of travel but uses a regular mains drill clamped in place.

 

[Yetty]

How much space have you?

If a small workshop and/or tight on space, then I'd say got for lightweight pillar drill.
- easy lift onto bench when wanted, even easier to stuff under the bench when not wanted, maybe is 99% of the time!

So it's cheap and lower powered, but thats not a big problem, use center punches, pilot holes, brad pointed bits.
Maybe more of a struggle with bigger forstner bits, but how often do you use these? - then just drill more slowly!

 

[Wildman]

no one so far has mentioned speed. a good range of speeds is essential even woodworkers have been known to drill metal at times and reaming requires very slow speeds
so number one on my list would be speeds followed by capacity and accuracy. The above mentioned brands will see you right for a really good drill.

 

[RogerS]

What to look for? The absence of a manufacturer's label saying 'Clarke'.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Miaow!

 

[mind_the_goat]

Get one that rotates rather than orbits, which my cheap SIP seems to do. In my case it's the chuck so at least it can be replaced.
As mentioned earlier low speeds are useful
The chuck guard and depth stops will break (same component) , be prepared to make your own.