What size hollow morticer chisel should I buy? Axm Hobby

[Tetsuaiga]

I have just bought an axminster hobby rated morticer. I believe its about 550w.

It didn't come with a chisel so I need to choose one but could do with some advise on what size I should go for. I haven't used one before so don't really know how much force it takes to use but have heard it can be quite hard work.

Initially I though 16mm as that's the largest its says can be used with hardwoods and softwoods. I'd like to use it with hardwoods, thing like Oak, Ash, Beech maybe even Maple. So would the 12mm size be more sensible for me, perhaps even the 10mm?

Thanks

 

[blackrodd]

You're chisel would usually need to be about third of the material thickness that you are morticing.
So work out you're first job, size of the stiles etc and away you go.
HTH Rodders

 

[Scoffy]

I would just go for the 10 mm, I have an industrial rated Wiliam Ridgeway morticer and I would struggle with 16mm on some of the hardwoods you mention. You can always cut larger mortices with a smaller chisel with multiple passes.

 

[RobinBHM]

I bought some mortice chisel sets from wealdon at a very reasonable price recently.

12mm or 1/2" is the most used size for doors, windows, gates.

10mm and 8mm used quite often in furniture (and single glazed sashes).

16mm is a large chisel and only a big machine would be able to cut through oak. A lighter duty machine will be ok with 12mm in softwood and oak if very sharp.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thanks. I'd have liked to have bought from wealdon but their chisels are the 13/16 shank size, the axminster hobby one is 3/4.

I'll probably go for 10mm and make multiple passes.

 

[marcros]

I would go smaller if possible unless you know that you are doing doors and windows. For furniture I would look for 1/4" or 6mm. 2nd choice 8mm but that is already assuming 1" finished timber.

 

[RobinBHM]

You can buy a sleeve to convert from 13/16 to 3/4 -although of course the extra cost will have to be factored in.

Multiple passes will cause the chisel to bend somewhat on the second cut, more so with the smaller chisels

 

[John15]

You probably don't know what size you need until you decide what to make, so it may be better to buy a set of chisels say from 6mm to 12mm - I have the Axi Hobby machine and I think it will struggle with the larger sizes. I also have Axi chisels and for occasional use they are fine.

John

 

[Carlow52]

Morticing, like routing is something that is better done in smaller chunks.

Just think about the manual effort required to chop out a 16mm wide mortice.

If the sliding table and plunge lever are set up comfortably, you will be surprised how quickly you will get it done

 

[blackrodd]

I've looked at my mortice chisels/augers today, which I bought together, from Axminster Tools some years ago, back when they were in the original shop, in uptown Axminster, next to the carpark.
The chisels were in a set, 5/8" 3/8" 1/4" with both size chisel bushes, so I would think if you gave them a call, they may well still sell a similar set with the two sizes of bushes, even after all this time.
Take pen and paper and have you're morticer details etc hopefully, from the label or plate still attached to it , and measure the size of the bush outer.
Even their budget stuff is pretty good, so you should be OK.
HTH Regards Rodders

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thank you Rodders and others. I will hopefully be using the morticer soon for a workbench so will probably wait till I know what i'll need before buying.

I'd like to buy Axminster's own brand but their website says its out of stock. It looks like its either a quite expensive (but i'm sure very good Japanese one) or something from Record or Charnwood.

 

[blackrodd]

Thank you Rodders and others. I will hopefully be using the morticer soon for a workbench so will probably wait till I know what i'll need before buying.

I'd like to buy Axminster's own brand but their website says its out of stock. It looks like its either a quite expensive (but i'm sure very good Japanese one) or something from Record or Charnwood.

Looking at a lot of machinery and tooling available today, the main difference seems to be the colour or brand label.
personally, I like Record stuff, and would steer towards their offerings, but, as above it may well be exactly the same as charnwood labeled gear.
Regards Rodders

 

[deema]

I personally prefer English style augers which have twin flutes. I therefore either buy vintage (Ridgeway / Wadkin / Ribinson) when they pop up on an auction site for a few pounds or buy Clico.

The difference I believe is that with the twin flute, especially in hardwood, the pressure is more balanced on the auger as it cuts. When you hit a hard spot it helps to reduce the amount of sideways load experienced and helps stop it jamming in the wood / going out of alignment. The Japanese style auger chisels tend to have the chisel cut away a centimetre or two away from the cutting edge to reduce friction, or IMO to reduce jamming when it gets pushed to one side.

For accuracy always use a Mortice chisel that's the correct size for the tennon (c1/3 the thickness of the wood). If you do double passes with a mortice chisel, after the first row one side of the chisel is not supported by the wood and the chisel will wander to that side. The mortice will be slightly off centre on the other side. Equally, when cutting a mortice, cut the ends first and work to the centre, again this stops the mortice tapering in as you deepen the hole.

 

[blackrodd]

I personally prefer English style augers which have twin flutes. I therefore either buy vintage (Ridgeway / Wadkin / Ribinson) when they pop up on an auction site for a few pounds or buy Clico.

The difference I believe is that with the twin flute, especially in hardwood, the pressure is more balanced on the auger as it cuts. When you hit a hard spot it helps to reduce the amount of sideways load experienced and helps stop it jamming in the wood / going out of alignment. The Japanese style auger chisels tend to have the chisel cut away a centimetre or two away from the cutting edge to reduce friction, or IMO to reduce jamming when it gets pushed to one side.

For accuracy always use a Mortice chisel that's the correct size for the tennon (c1/3 the thickness of the wood). If you do double passes with a mortice chisel, after the first row one side of the chisel is not supported by the wood and the chisel will wander to that side. The mortice will be slightly off centre on the other side. Equally, when cutting a mortice, cut the ends first and work to the centre, again this stops the mortice tapering in as you deepen the hole.

When using My morticer, I tend to go in about a 1/4 of the depth with the first plunge, increasing the depth, as the biggest problem with mine isn't chisel wandering but jamming in the first 2, or 3 plunges. Once the waste can exit, the morticer performs really well.
I don't get that wandering problem as you should always match the tenon to the mortice which is cut first.
I'd get a bigger chisel and the 1/3rd thickness, for the mortice is a guide only and can be a little out.
Regards Rodders

 

[terrymck]

I would get a 6, 8 and 10mm. Even though they quote you being able to do up to 16mm with a 550W Axy hobby machine it is real hard work especially in hardwood.
You may even find the going hard even with a 10mm.

Don't forget to get a HCM sharpening set too. Even new chisels need a hone (just like a bench chisel) and the ones with a polishing cone are a good investment.

 

[Rhossydd]

Even new chisels need a hone (just like a bench chisel) and the ones with a polishing cone are a good investment.

+1 it's also worth taking some time to smooth out the interior bore of the chisel to help get shaving out easily, even polishing teh auger stem helps too.
Some of the cheaper bits are remarkably rough inside and trap shaving, when that happens the bits will overheat, smoke, stop the machine or, at worst, break the auger bit.
Fettling the chisels and augers is time well spent.

 

[blackrodd]

I would get a 6, 8 and 10mm. Even though they quote you being able to do up to 16mm with a 550W Axy hobby machine it is real hard work especially in hardwood.
You may even find the going hard even with a 10mm.

Don't forget to get a HCM sharpening set too. Even new chisels need a hone (just like a bench chisel) and the ones with a polishing cone are a good investment.

I think that the chisels should be sharpened by using a correct size round grinding stick, similar to the sets used with a drill.
If you hone the chisel sides, you are making the chisel wedge shaped and it really will jam, just clear the swarf lightly.
The auger will get blunt first, by doing most of the work.
Sharpen the auger carefully with a file, and when setting the chisel and auger, first set the chisel in place, but a 1/16" low, set the auger up flush at the bottom, and lock it in place,then set the chisel higher where it should be up against the shoulder, square it against the fence.
This is the easiest way to ensure the correct gap for the chisel to work in otherwise it will get hot, and even burn blue etc because the chippings and waste will not exit upwards, and then at the side quick enough.
This is worse in hardwoods, oak etc.
Regards Rodders

 

[terrymck]

For reference this is the sharpening set I use http://www.axminster.co.uk/morticing-ch ... pening-set

I hone the auger with a diamond file just on the cutting flutes NOT the diameter. Only lightly hone the outside faces of the chisel so you don't change its shape or size as another poster said. There will also be a slight burr formed on the outside after the cone has done its work on the inside. Again you could simply use a strop or a light abrasive to remove it.

 

[blackrodd]

For reference this is the sharpening set I use http://www.axminster.co.uk/morticing-ch ... pening-set

I hone the auger with a diamond file just on the cutting flutes NOT the diameter. Only lightly hone the outside faces of the chisel so you don't change its shape or size as another poster said. There will also be a slight burr formed on the outside after the cone has done its work on the inside. Again you could simply use a strop or a light abrasive to remove it.

terrymck, That sharpener looks really good, It's good to look after you're tools.
I just use what I've had for ages.
I worked in a door factory once and there were several morticers, some had a belt and you slipped it on a pulley and there was a sharpening station, no messing, no moving. I think they were German made.
Regards Rodders

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thanks for the posts. I will probably invest in one of the sharpening sets at some point, but see how I get on with 8mm to start with.