what do I need?

[sunnybob]

I want to have a the ability to use my bench drill press as a (very basic) lathe.
Not for serious turning, just to do odd jobs on.
For example, right now I am making a box that would best be described as round biscuit tin shaped.

Its an absolute pig trying to make the sides parallel and the ends square.
If I could mount that lump of wood between two centres on the drill press and turn it into a vertical lathe it would make life very easy sanding that shape.

What kind of centres would do that job?

 

[J-G]

I want to have a the ability to use my bench drill press as a (very basic) lathe.
Not for serious turning, just to do odd jobs on.
For example, right now I am making a box that would best be described as round biscuit tin shaped.

Its an absolute pig trying to make the sides parallel and the ends square.
If I could mount that lump of wood between two centres on the drill press and turn it into a vertical lathe it would make life very easy sanding that shape.

What kind of centres would do that job?

I'm sure someone will be along in a minute or two to give you specific advice but my first reaction is

DON'T DO IT!

A Pillar Drill / Bench Drill Press is not designed to take sideways loads.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You might get away with a little drawer knob or something that size.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Mini lathes which would be absolutely perfect for those kinds of jobs are really cheap. Knowing that, I wouldn't put your safety at risk by bodging it with a drill

 

[sunnybob]

hmmm, I REALLY dont want to buy any more machines. Lack of space is only surpassed by lack of money.

And i do understand sideways forces, I'm just talking about it revolving quite slowly so I can sand it parallel, no intention of gouging out wood.

 

[graduate_owner]

Many years ago I was given a Black and Decker lathe attachment which I thought was AWFUL, because it was fiddly o use ( needed a spanner to adjust the rest etc) and the drill was noisy but the worst thing was I was standing in front of the drill, so the cooling draught got me straight in the face. However even with it's limitations I am sure it would be far better than a pillar drill. Other makes are Wolfcraft and Axminster. These attachments go dirt cheap, if you can find them. Alternatively you can get ideas online for making your own wooden lathe. Even a 'proper' lathe doesn't have to be expensive or bulky. There is a Tyme Cub on fleabay now for £40 or best offer. I realise living in Cyprus may be a different ball game but that might give you some ideas.
I really think the traditional lathe layout would be easier and safer to use, and could be almost free if you make a wooden bed version.

K

 

[nev]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGu0SLWoayY

or an alternative may be if you have a belt or disc sander and rig up a jig for that instead?

 

[marcros]

how big is the box- it sounded quite large?

 

[Dalboy]

The video that Nev linked to I would not follow him especially in using a standard carpenters chisel if they break you are asking for trouble. So DO NOT USE.

 

[nev]

I believe bob is wanting to spin a box to SAND, not to gouge.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

"Its an absolute pig trying to make the sides parallel and the ends square."

He's got his work cut out doing it with any abrasive on any drill driven gizmo.

 

[sunnybob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGu0SLWoayY

or an alternative may be if you have a belt or disc sander and rig up a jig for that instead?

Thats exactly what I wanted to know. This box is about 6" high x 7" across, but I've already cut all the drawers out of it so weight is minimal. But every so often a cylinder shape comes along and I think thats what I shall make.

 

[sunnybob]

Instead of that redneck T nut and pointed bolt, what can I use? I'm not up on turning nomenclature, but I believe i need a "live centre"? to stop the wood burning at one end and grabbing at the other?

 

[nev]

On a lathe you'd have the option of, at the drive end either a chuck to hold the wood, a prong or steb drive or screw chuck (all push into the wood and 'bite'), a faceplate (multiple screws into wood) or a glue chuck.
and at the tail end a live centre, basically a spike in a bearing.

I would say that the easiest method that does not involve damaging your box would be a hot glue fixing to sacrificial scraps. so maybe a countersunk nut and bolt through some scrap with a flat bottom face. bolt goes in drill chuck box hot glued to top face of box, similar method on bottom but not sure how to make a live centre? maybe a deep hole in some scrap the size of the bolt diameter and a large washer?

Once sanded you just heat the hot glue to remove 'chucks'.

some good double sided tape may also do the trick if you've not got a hot glue gun.

 

[sunnybob]

Thank you nev. Glue gun i got, Double sided tape dont work out here for some reason. The thick foam layer stuff does, but i've even bought double sided back from the Uk and its all rubbish.

 

[Making Shavings]

I've got just the thing for you- it's an attachment that fits on to your pillar drill press platform, with a live centre at the base, and you use the drill itself with a drive centre to spin the item (notice I haven't used the phrase turning to avoid any potential confusion). It also has an upright 'tool rest'. I've only ever used it for applying spray paint and very light sanding (mainly balsa wood/perspex) for decorative lighting and model aircraft parts. Like said above, I'd never use the pillar drill for anything that requires a lateral load), so don't put woodturning tools anywhere near it- you'll get injured and risk causing your drill to go out of alignment. If you're interested, drop me a pm.

 

[sunnybob]

pm sent

 

[Making Shavings]

Got it, thanks Bob. However, I can't reply to your PM- probably because I'm a new user here. Can you send me another one, with your email, and then I can send you all the info, photos etc you need.