What could I do

[cone]

There's been a slight issue after floors been screeded and now I'm only finding out the door height is 2120mm high and width is 890mm

Can anyone recommend on what to do. If it put an 18mm thick flooring, 3mm underlay and a 2032mm(80inch) high door with a 5mm gap under the door and a 30 frame, I'm left with 2088 mm. This will leave a gap of 32mm! Is there anything can be done about this to close it off!

The width of the door, if it's 812mm(32inch) plus the both sides of frame is 30+30 now leaves me with 18mm on one side of the frame.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get around this.

 

[Jameshow]

Add a piece of 30mm pine to bottom of door? (If pine other woods are available!)

Pack out the frame by 18mm?

 

[cone]

Add a piece of 30mm pine to bottom of door? (If pine other woods are available!)

Pack out the frame by 18mm?

They are the light white 4 panel doors. When you say pack out, what with. Will I pack both sides or one.

 

[cone]

9mm ply on both sides?

 

[deema]

Make a door the size you need.

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

We often get this on site and pack down using plaster board and then aimes it up and paint in with the wall.

This may not be suitable if you are in a period property but will work on anything fairly modern.

 

[baldkev]

Go back a step.... so your floor has been screeded, presumably stud walls built? Not plastered if you are talking about frame sizes etc, so pack down the head of the door opening to suit before fitting a lining. As for width, its usually 30 " or 33"... so either pack a side off for 30" plus lining, or slim down the lining thickness ( remember wedging space etc )

 

[cone]

Go back a step.... so your floor has been screeded, presumably stud walls built? Not plastered if you are talking about frame sizes etc, so pack down the head of the door opening to suit before fitting a lining. As for width, its usually 30 " or 33"... so either pack a side off for 30" plus lining, or slim down the lining thickness ( remember wedging space etc )

I could have packed down with plasterboard bonded to the underside of the lintel then plastered but it's already skimmed out now. Block walls scratched and plastered. I can't get 33 inch doors here where I am. It's 30, 32 or prorder 34.

Any suggestions what to pack it out with now? Someone mentioned, just fit the frame and door and foam the gap and you won't see it because of the architrave.

 

[cone]

We often get this on site and pack down using plaster board and then aimes it up and paint in with the wall.

This may not be suitable if you are in a period property but will work on anything fairly modern.

What's aimes

 

[cone]

Make a door the size you need.

I need 6.

 

[mikej460]

Create a frame window above the doors?

 

[baldkev]

Any suggestions what to pack it out with now? Someone mentioned, just fit the frame and door and foam the gap and you won't see it because of the architrave.

How big is the architrave?
Are your doors all metric or something?
You could carefully cut a 2" section of the plaster out ( not the plasterboard ) and after packing, skrim and a bit of plaster if the architrave wont cover it.

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

Aimes is another name for easy fill. I assume the spelling is right, not sure where the name came from as I’ve never seen it written on a bag. Like this stuff

 

[Jones]

Your width would seem to be just right . To fix the lining use tapered wedges cut from 2" stock about 2" longer than the width of the lining. Use them to center the lining in the blockwork and screw fix to blockwork making sure they are plumb and parallel. You will need to pack the head somehow. A 10 mm gap under the door is normal , more if you will have carpet.

 

[cone]

Your width would seem to be just right . To fix the lining use tapered wedges cut from 2" stock about 2" longer than the width of the lining. Use them to center the lining in the blockwork and screw fix to blockwork making sure they are plumb and parallel. You will need to pack the head somehow. A 10 mm gap under the door is normal , more if you will have carpet.

Should I fill any voids with expanding foam that'll be hid behind the architrave?

If I use a door sadle on top of 12mm flooring+3mm underlay and with the gap of 10mm you suggest, the gap will reduce thst little bit more. How much gap between top of door and frame is max one can go.

 

[MARK.B.]

Get 34" doors and take equal amounts from both sides to give your desired gap

 

[baldkev]

Expanding foam will firm up the lining and stop flexing, so yep thats good. Also worth putting extra wedges or packers where the lock / latch keeper will be

 

[HOJ]

I'm not good at math, this is my take on it:

Width : SO is 890 wide - 812 for door = 78, - 6 (2 x 3) for door margin in lining = 72 - 64 (2 x 32 Door linings) = 8 /2 leaves a gap of 4 either side, which is actually quite tight.

Height: SO is 2120 tall - 2032 door = 88, flooring @ 12+3+10 = 25, from 88 = 63, less 3 margin & 32 lining leaves 28.

Architrave is about 60 wide with a 5 off set from lining edge (32+28)-5 = 55, it will cover the head gap.

By the way I don't use the off the shelf whitewood linings (27), make my own, from ex 38.

E&OE

 

[Misterdog]

If the door size is essential, rip the frame out and fit one the right size, the architrave will cover the error.

If not, buy doors the right size for the frames.

Old joiners would always measure the frame twice and buy doors of the right size once.

 

[Jones]

You can foam behind the linings but if you wedge and fix at 5 points per side there should not be much movement. If fire safety is an issue use rockwool pack or fire rated foam. The door should fit to the frame with about 3 to 5 mm each side and top, so you will need to have a gap between the door lining and lintel which you can fill. You don't screw the head to the lintel. The architrave should be deep enough to cover the gap, if not you could use a goalpost type architrave with a deeper top piece,on really good work the uprights are cut into the cross piece so there's no gap if it shrinks .