Warped scroll saw table - Any way I can fix this myself?

[Tetsuaiga]

I have a scroll saw table and its not level at the end just close to the saw.

I was thinking instead of buying a new table, could I not use either files or sandpaper to level it out? Maybe strapping it onto something flat to make it act like a planer would. Is this a practical solution? Thanks

I'm new to working with scroll sawing but like the idea of doing intarsia, I can imagine the work piece tilting when it drops off from the for inserting blades, where the surface level changes would be very bad.

 

[blackrodd]

how about a false bed, about 9mm ply with a low friction, formica type finish on top? Rodders

 

[aideym]

Strap some 20x 10mm steel bar to the bottom, see if it dare bend then

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I'll look into the false bed idea.

Aideym, how would you suggest strapping the bar on. I can't clamp it because the clamps would stop the work piece moving freely around the table.

 

[Steve Maskery]

How far out of flat is it?

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I've inspected it a little more. I'm fairly sure its the lower right quarter which is bend downwards, i'd say its quite significant probably 1mm. Objects will rock quite badly across the slot which I presume is there for easy insertion of blades but the design seems a bad idea as it makes the table weaker.

I wonder if I could use some kind of resin like epoxy to raise the area up that little bit?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Aideym's idea isn't silly at all. It was originally machined flat and then it's warped. If you can drill it and fit countersunk machine screws through the top, you can probably tap a bar underneath to screw into and hold the warped bits straight. I don't own a scroll saw but I've seen them - the tables aren't very heavily made.

My bandsaw also has the slot for fitting blades facing to the front. The fence rail bolts across the ends of it, which helps to keep it straight, but it does move around, and one side is often higher or lower than the other. I usually check it when I change blades by sliding the back of an engineer's square across the slot: If it catches, I have to adjust things. I haven't added a second bar as it's not really necessary, but if you looked at the table (cast steel, I think) you'd guess it couldn't twist that much, but it does.

E.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I think i'm going to attempt to level the surface with epoxy, never done it before but I think it shoud be able to work. If that doesn't work out i'll probably go with the counter sunk screw method, or bolt.

You are right its a quite thin table probably very similar to a router table insert, maybe even slightly smaller.

 

[bugbear]

I was thinking instead of buying a new table, could I not use either files or sandpaper to level it out?

I suspect any table thin/cheap enough to be out of flat will be too thin to allow much material removal for flattening.

Further (speaking as a plane sole flattener of some knowledge and experience) flattening a large area is not a trivial operation.

BugBear

 

[Racers]

I flattened a bent router base by epoxying a perspex base onto the existing base.
I placed the perspex on a flat surface and pressed the router base on it so it remained flat and the epoxy filled the gaps.
I trimmed to size after the glue had gone off.
The perspex is a smooth surface that slides over the wood well.

Pete

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Sounds like a nice way to do it.

Bugbear. I intended to only apply epoxy onto the lower right quarter (actually slightly less) where a straight rule begins to show gaps. I would build up a pen which was equal height to the bottom of the straight edge then apply epoxy and then wipe away using the edges as rests, then I could sand a little. One thing i'm not sure about is if there'd be any issue with the area where the expoxied surface would meet old metal surface.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Does t matter hugely if you stick or bolt something down over the whole surface? Isn't it easier and aesthetically neater to do that?

Having tried to sand epoxy quite a few times, I'd not be keen to go that way. It's always sticky when it's freshly cured (for a week or so, at least), and clogs anything you abrade it with. If you used, say a slab of Perspex instead, you'd get a great finish you could use straight away, and it would look much tidier.

Just my twopence.

E.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Hm, i'm starting to come round to that idea now actually. I thought it would look cleaner if i used just epoxy but was probably wrong.

I'll probably go for the way pete suggested, not really sure how to do the operation but I suppose I can figure something out. I guess 2mm sheet is good enough.