wardrobe project - doors rub when I open them

[fobos8]

Hi all

Attached are two photos of some wardrobes I made. They look good but when I open a door the hinged stile rubs against the hinged stile of the door adjacent to it. The gap between all the doors is 2mm.







The hinges are full overlay.

What can I do to stop this problem? Have I used the correct hinges?

Any suggestions appreciated.

Kind regards, Andrew

 

[MMUK]

Only 2mm clearance? Therein lies the problem.....

 

[fobos8]

I just adjusted them to a 3mm gap and they still rub!!

 

[MMUK]

If you want that little clearance, you need to use half overlay hinges but even then you need at least 4mm gap. Otherwise you'll need to up the gap to suit the thickness of the door. Full overlay are not designed for mullion fitting, they are designed for outerframe fitting.

 

[fobos8]

I thought a 3mm gap was normal for kitchen cabinets and these all use full overlay hinges - as I have in the cabinets in the pictures

 

[MMUK]

I thought a 3mm gap was normal for kitchen cabinets and these all use full overlay hinges - as I have in the cabinets in the pictures

The difference being that the doors of kitchen cabinets aren't fitted back to back on a single board. You have two board widths between doors on a kitchen, yours appears to be only one?

 

[fobos8]

my cabinets and doors are the same as in a kitchen. Each carcase side has only one door hinged on it.

 

[jasonB]

The cause is the edge drilling distance, Blum have tables that give a guide to the correct distance in from the edge to drill the hole depandant on door thickness, edge radius, etc.

Looking at your doors they have a very square edge which would need larger edge distance which when closed means the hinge needs screwing away from the carcase more to maintain the 2mm gap and this effectively moves the pivot point away from the adjacent door.

J

EDIT one other thought have you use 15mm Conti board for your carcases with standard zero height mounting plates rather than +3mm ones?

 

[MMUK]

my cabinets and doors are the same as in a kitchen. Each carcase side has only one door hinged on it.

You've missed my point, although I possibly didn't explain myself as clearly as I could have.

Looking at your photo it appears that you've built the wardrobe as one large frame with single sheet divisions? I mean there is only one sheet thickness (15mm/18mm?) between the doors.

In a kitchen unit setup, you have separate carcasses and so you have two boards thickness where doors meet at the hinge side.

Does that explain any more clearly what I was getting at?

 

[fobos8]

The cause is the edge drilling distance, Blum have tables that give a guide to the correct distance in from the edge to drill the hole depandant on door thickness, edge radius, etc.

Looking at your doors they have a very square edge which would need larger edge distance which when closed means the hinge needs screwing away from the carcase more to maintain the 2mm gap and this effectively moves the pivot point away from the adjacent door.

didn't realize this - make perfect sense - many thanks

 

[jasonB]

Give me a while and I'll dig out the link, I always used to refer people to Woodfits site for these details as it was easier to follow than blums but they are no more.

J

 

[jasonB]

Here you go, its actually page 207 you want to zoom in on.

http://publications.blum.com/2013/catalogue/en/#/206/

Assuming you have 18mm carcase, zero height mounting plates and are using a 2mm gap.

Look under the left illustration that shows your full overlay doors. the top row is the amount of carcase covered so your 2mm gap will be 1mm off each door so 18mm - 1mm = 17mm of carcase covered.

You then look along the line for the 0 height plates and it gives an distance from door edge to edge of hole of 6mm.

I Always treat this table as a guide and do a test based on that and adjust as needed, door thickness will also come into it and you generally need a bigger gap as the thickness increases.

J

 

[ColeyS1]

How thick are the doors ? I've had to fit hinges that use a 40mm forstner bit on thick doors

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[fobos8]

Jason - that's very interesting. I didn't realize that the gap you wanted between doors affected how from the edge of the door you drill your 35mm hole. Now I know where I've been going wrong!

Will use the chart for my next project.

Cheers, Andrew

 

[Oryxdesign]

How thick are the doors?

 

[Charlie Woody]

Here you go, its actually page 207 you want to zoom in on.

http://publications.blum.com/2013/catalogue/en/#/206/

Assuming you have 18mm carcase, zero height mounting plates and are using a 2mm gap.

Look under the left illustration that shows your full overlay doors. the top row is the amount of carcase covered so your 2mm gap will be 1mm off each door so 18mm - 1mm = 17mm of carcase covered.

You then look along the line for the 0 height plates and it gives an distance from door edge to edge of hole of 6mm.

I Always treat this table as a guide and do a test based on that and adjust as needed, door thickness will also come into it and you generally need a bigger gap as the thickness increases.

J

I am about to make a cupboard with oak veneered carcase - 19 mm - with solid oak rails & styles - 20 mm - and have purchased 71B3550 hinges and 173H7100 plates. I want full overlay, and as the link you provided does not show that size door, I think the 35 mm hole should be 9 mm from the edge of the door - is that correct?

How do I set that out accurately - I had a hinge drilling jig I got from Rutlands years ago but I don't think it will have a 9 mm gap?

Also what distance is the plate set in from the front of the carcase, and how do you set these out accurately?

 

[jasonB]

First you need to look at the right type of hinge, the blumotion ones are here

http://publications.blum.com/2013/catalogue/en/#/102/

I would say you want to allow a 2mm gap so carcase of 19mm less 2mm gap equals 17mm which from the table gives an edge distance of 6mm, as I said above do a test to be sure but the hinge adjustment should be enough to take out any small differences.

Don't know what your jig is like but any half decent one will have an adjustment for edge distance, if not just knock up something like this, the screws can be used to adjust the distance or just screw the batten on where you need it.

 

[ColeyS1]

I didn't wanna know how thick the doors were anyway....... neither did Simon :lol:

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[Charlie Woody]

First you need to look at the right type of hinge, the blumotion ones are here

http://publications.blum.com/2013/catalogue/en/#/102/

I would say you want to allow a 2mm gap so carcase of 19mm less 2mm gap equals 17mm which from the table gives an edge distance of 6mm, as I said above do a test to be sure but the hinge adjustment should be enough to take out any small differences.

Don't know what your jig is like but any half decent one will have an adjustment for edge distance, if not just knock up something like this, the screws can be used to adjust the distance or just screw the batten on where you need it.

Thanks Jason.

Do I need to make any allowance for the thickness of the door?

What is the correct distance from the front of the carcase for the hinge mounting plates as I can't see that on the link (might be me as I find it difficult to not lose the place when I zoom in)?

 

[jasonB]

The 2mm gap should be enough to take into account the thickness.

Plates all mount in the standard 37mm back from the face, holes 32mm apart

As the edge drilling distance goes up you may need to wind out the hinge using the adjusment screws so the edge of teh door clears the carcase when the door is open