Wago connectors

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Sporky McGuffin

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I don't know if anyone else has the same rage reaction to connecting the wiring in pendant lights and suchlike, but I recently found these and they're a marvel. I've been using the 221 series; they come as 2, 3 or 5-way, and they basically have a little lever that you flick up to push in a wire, and down to lock it. No fiddling with chockblock or screwdrivers.

Wago-221-Series-Lever-Wire-Connectors.jpg


Rated for 32A at 600v. The first of our new pendant lamps (using chockblock) took me a good half hour of swearing, the second (using these) took about five minutes. Highly recommended. Now to tackle the 9-way ceiling rose for the living room...
 
Yep. I use Wago connectors all the time. Push-on and lever type. Just remember that the connectors still need to be enclosed, and if everything isn't clipped down then there needs to be some sort of strain relief (cable clamp). Generally use the ready-made Wagobox enclosures for dry non-visible locations.
 
Excellent points. The pendant lamp has clamping for the incoming and outgoing cables in its ceiling rose and the connectors fit inside the ceiling rose quite neatly, so I think it's OK.

I got a sample pack when I bought the 221s, and that's got some push-on ones. At the risk of sounding really dim, do you literally just push the wires in and that's it? Are they removable later?

The other thing I liked about the 221s is that they work with solid or stranded wire at a range of gauges.
 
The push-on connectors fit on to solid core or stiff stranded cables (basically the twin and earth cables) not onto fine stranded flex - and yes they just push on. You can just about remove them by pulling and twisting back and forwards - but really they're a permanent fix. Really good for inaccessible situations where a 'maintenance free' junction is needed. And they're slightly more compact than the lever versions and available up to 8 ways.
 
Ta. The 221s are absolutely tiny - no bigger than the push-ons in the sample pack, so given my questionable wiring skills it's probably better for me to stick to them for now!
 
These type of connectors were originally produced for the telecommunications industry which was fine.

What bright spark decided to produce them for mains voltage/current I don’t know. I agree they are easy to use for the DIY user, but using them is a fire waiting to happen, in my opinion they should be banned. :shock:

Take care.

Chris R
 
Don't think they're a fire risk when correctly installed. Maybe ChrisR is confusing them with the insulation displacement connectors used in the telecom industry - which only make a point contact, unlike these which work by clamping onto several millimetres of pre-stripped copper.
 
Dee J":7r3cnzsd said:
Really good for inaccessible situations where a 'maintenance free' junction is needed.

Ah that's a no-no, ALL junctions need to be accessible.

No more fire risk than any other connector, I like them, quick easy and more chance of a proper connection as they remove much of the variables of the person making the joint, no screws to loosen, strip, do up too tight or not tight enough.
They still need to be enclosed as mentioned above.
 
mindthatwhatouch":2cjqjhd0 said:
Dee J":2cjqjhd0 said:
Really good for inaccessible situations where a 'maintenance free' junction is needed.

Ah that's a no-no, ALL junctions need to be accessible.

Not quite true see BS7671 regulation 526.3 which defines what junctions can be inaccessible.

If you read the wago site their connectors and boxes are only maintenance free (MF) if derated, guide https://www.connexbox.com/docs/files/wagobox-mf-qna-v4.pdf

This one by hager (Ashley) does have the MF marking https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html
 
No I am not being confused by telecom type connectors.

Most people do not realise that the biggest percentage of electrical fires are caused by poor or loose connections, and not by low or zero impedance faults, on a circuit, as these faults will be protected by the circuit breaker or a wired fuse in older systems. A circuit breaker or fuse does not give you any protection from overheated loose/poor connections.

As for correctly tightening electrical connections, be it for a 5amp or 500amp plus circuit, then if you are not confident in determining what is a good tight connection, then you should not be carrying out the work. :roll:

As simple as.

Take care.

Chris R.
 
ChrisR":3a7cjr94 said:
As for correctly tightening electrical connections, be it for a 5amp or 500amp plus circuit, then if you are not confident in determining what is a good tight connection, then you should not be carrying out the work. :roll:


Chris R.

I agree entirely, having done both I am confident in my abilities, however I have seen many choc block type connections that have overheated or been wrongly made. I feel that the Wago joints remove much of this type of problem.
Also seen the problems caused by bad installation practices, some supposedly professionally installed (including inaccessible connections, adversely affected by the environment, or just badly made/placed) undersized cables, abuse/stupidity by the consumer or DIY incompetence. Some caused electrical fires which is never pleasant for those involved.
 
ChrisR":2c72a1yt said:
Most people do not realise that the biggest percentage of electrical fires are caused by poor or loose connections

The Wagos seem make a more secure connection (and more easily) than a screw-down terminal, which suggests they're actually less of a fire risk.
 
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