wadkin BOAS

[jo-53]

I'm looking for advice on the Wadkin BOAS.
While having to change my planer belts I noticed that the feed drive chain is resting on top of the cuter spindle and has already caused parallel grooves from each side of the chain links. There is only a little slack between the 2 top sprockets, not enough to shorten the distance by one link. As far as I know the mountings for the top 2 sprockets are fixed without adjustments, so I'm wondering how I can stop this wear. I seem to remember that if the feed rollers (and so drive chain) are running that increases the tension just enough to stop the contact. If I'm only surfacing I don't run the feed and it doesn't seem that that is the proper solution. Is there something else I can do?
I could upload a photo if that would help.
Thanks
Jo

I may have posted this already by mistake on the private chat forum or else this is a repeat. Sorry!

 

[sunnybob]

if the two sprockets are fixed, then running the machine can not shorten the chain. What happens is the top run goes tight and the lower runs goes looser.

I dont know this machine, but am surprised there is no adjustment on the chain. If there really is none, then depending on the size of the chain, 1 and a 1/2 links should be available. So you would remove 2, fit the 1 1/2, and reduce the distance by a half link. If not, a new chain is the only answer.

 

[GK1]

I don't have that machine but I have a downloaded manual which says the idler sprocket can be adjusted by slackening two bolt heads underneath it where the bearing fixes to the machine.

 

[jo-53]

Thanks for your replies.
I've been trying to upload a photo.
Yes the general tension can be adjusted below the top 2 sprockets by a slide system, but this doesn't alter the tension between the top 2. Not quite understand your changing the links?

(Seem to just end up with this:-

instead of photo??)
Aha, no pic appears until I preview/send it!
Thanks
Jo

 

[MilesH]

Yes the general tension can be adjusted below the top 2 sprockets by a slide system, but this doesn't alter the tension between the top 2.

Logically, it should do... Have you tried?

 

[nev]

Chain and/ or sprockets are probably worn. If the top sprockets are fixed and the chain sags significantly between them then it probably needs replacing. Chains are a consumable item, albeit a with a good few miles between replacement but they do wear out. Worth a quick call to these folks ...
http://www.wadkin.com/spare-parts

 

[jo-53]

Haven't tried tensioning recently but could give it a go tomorrow, i think when I last did a few years back it was difficult and I was nearly at the limit although the photo seems to show some more movement possible to the left. Chain and sprockets don't seem too worn, will try and add a close up. Not too keen on calling for part as my guess is it will be expensive. (I called about a call out and was told £300.00, to be fair it would have been 1,1/2 hours away but not a long job). Could the chain be shortened? (not by me, I think). Would still involve removal of course and another few days before I can get back to the job in hand
Many thanks for replies
Jo

 

[MilesH]

If you've run out of adjustment on the jockey, it should be easy enough to take a link out. You'll need a chain breaker tool.

Chain wear will only be a problem when the pitch gets too elongated to mesh properly with the sprockets. The two feed rollers are free to rotate independently, their distance apart doesn't have anything to do with chain tension.....

 

[jo-53]

Have tightened the drive as much as I could. I remembered now that it was getting the chain on that I had struggled with a few years back. Still a bit of play in the longer part of chain, which I think is correct. Not touching the spindle which is hopefully job done. I have put up the close up of the chain, it looks fine to me, but I know nothing!
I'm keeping my fingers crossed until I put the belts back when they arrive Monday hopefully. Then the tick tick noise which I thought was the blades touching on my home made extractor box will be gone. Fantastic.
Many thanks

 

[deema]

If your near the end of the adjustment it really does indicate that the chain is badly worn. Chains are ‘cheap’ and easy to replace. This is something you can do yourself and don’t need Wadkin to come and do it for you.

Use a chain breaking tool to take out a ‘rivet’ (not sure of the proper term) that holds the chain links together. You can either measure it or take it to retailer of chains to get a match.

A stretched / worn chain WILL wear your sprockets and that will be be expensive to fix.

 

[sunnybob]

You can visually check a worn chain.
Look closely at the teeth that are not covered by the chain. the teeth should be equal on both sides of the slope. If the tip of the teeth are sloping back or forward by even the slightest amount, the chain is stretched.

 

[Myfordman]

It is economic madness to got to manufacturers for spare parts such as chains, belts, bearing etc. No machine maker is going to make their own versions of these items which are standard parts and can be bought cheaply from generic suppliers.

 

[jo-53]

Thanks for the replies. Looking closely at the chain and the teeth, the dirt on the teeth seems in tact on both sides and I can't see any particular wear. Also I have to confess the tensioning slide had plenty of room to increase tension, I had mistaken the position to show that there was little room to increase and I now remember why I had found replacing the chain difficult, it was because there wasn't much slack!
I'm hoping the belts will arrive tomorrow.
Jo

 

[MilesH]

Chains wear if they're not lubricated. That one's parched :wink:

 

[jo-53]

Thanks, was going to do that before putting cover back. Would WD40 dry lube be a good option?

 

[MilesH]

Would WD40 dry lube be a good option?

I've no experience with it. SAE10 is what's normally recommended.