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Wadkin Ags Spindle

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a1dutch

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Hi,

Starting to rebuild my Ags 12, the spindle has some damage around the holes used to tighten/loosen the blade.

There is a little crack and some bent metal.

Wanting some advice on what to do! Would it be possible to drill/mill some new holes? Would this effect the balance?

Getting a new one made or trying to find a second hand one sounds expensive.

here’s a few pictures

96519EF8-62EB-4386-AB75-420685272A5F.jpeg

C2C035EC-64BC-4266-80B6-F1573E2BABF8.jpeg


Any advice much appreciated.

Andy
 

deema

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Hi Andy, the hole is used only for mounting / removing the blade. A bar of the right diameter is inserted into the hole to allow leverage to be applied to the spindle nut. Often, any bit if bar is used, often too narrow diameter, or the correct bar isn’t pushed in far enough as the hole is full of sawdust. The damage you have is the consequence. Not a real issue, you don’t need to do anything If you don’t want to. I usually pop the spindle in a lathe and just turn it smooth again. If you don’t have a lathe, carefully file it smooth. Try not to take any more material off than is necessary, as it can unbalance the spindle.
To remove a blade, the ‘old hands’ way was simply to pop a bit of timber into the blade, resting on the table. The teeth dig into the wood as you untighten the blade.
 

a1dutch

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Any advise on how to get the nut off the end (the one on the pulley end)? just spent the last few hours trying to get it off!!

have tried heating it with a blow torch and adding wd40 but it’s not moving.

can’t seem to get enough grip without it spinning round!!
 

MusicMan

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Lock it with the piece on the other end (using a well-fitting locking bar) that you are complaining about.
 

a1dutch

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I managed to get it off, had to use some more heat and wd40 fast release.

used two spanner’s and a lot of pressure and it finally moved.

Next step it to try and get it out off the housing and remove the woodruff.
 

Gremmy

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Hey A1Dutch,

I’ve just taken an AGS10 spindle apart a week or so ago (I’d assume it was pretty much the same as yours)
I’ve popped a few pictures below that might be of use if you’re unsure.
I used a bearing puller and a piece of copper so I didn’t chew the end of the spindle up.
I put a bit of easing oil down through the cast iron housing (I am going to replace my bearings so not concerned about them being damaged this way)
Remember to take the bolt out of the cast iron housing so that the spindle will push out. (It won’t if you don’t remove it, and you’ll damage the spacing piece)

For the woodruff key i put easing oil on and left for a few hours. I then used a masonry chisel and gave it a tap, it just popped out. Perhaps I was lucky this time as I’ve had woodruff keys that I’ve had to drill out before...

Keep up posted with your progress
 

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NetBlindPaul

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Have to say that you have an oddball AGS, I've never seen a woodruff key on an AGS spindle before!
 

a1dutch

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Spent most of today getting the spindle out of the housing, ended up pushing it with my bearing puller.

cleaned up a few parts ready for some painting too.

the next thing that doesn’t want to come off is the locking collar, I’ve removed both the retaining screws but the thing won’t budge. Have tried the puller from the bottom bearing, heating it, releasing agents.

any special tricks?
 

a1dutch

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What sort of oil/lubricant should i be using on the machined parts to protect them from rust once they have finished pickling in vinegar?

Some of the parts have come up real nice with a rub with wire wool.
 

Vann

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What sort of oil/lubricant should i be using on the machined parts to protect them from rust once they have finished pickling in vinegar?...
I use a DTE Medium-Heavy (which I have in my oil can for lubricating my working Wadkins), but anything similar will hold the rust at bay for a while.

Cheers, Vann.
 

deema

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Don’t use oil generally, sawdust sticks to it creating a gummy mess. Metal Guard is excellent as a medium term protector, generally needs refreshing annually. For the thrust bearings I would use white grease. For the sintered bearings a drop of oil is needed before assembly and preferably weekly. For the worms again white grease.
For surfaces wood comes into contact with Metal Guard followed by Liberian machine wax.
 

a1dutch

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My bearings are the ones with the wider inner, 24mm, 16mm outer.

I’ve ordered the 6206 ZZ SKF bearings, these are 16mm wide.

Will I need to add some spacers at each end to account for the missing 4mm
 

deema

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Yep, just the outside, no need to add then between the bearings where the spacer sits. Use shim washers.
 

deema

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Why have you ordered 6206? The AGS10 takes 6203. Better to use 2R than ZZ as it keeps the dust out. They are standard clearance bearings.
 

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