Wadkin AGS 10

[SteveF]

not sure which topic this should go in

can anyone with above machine tell me how to remove the table top?
it is 1" too wide to go through a single door, even with fence removed
and I think hiring a crane to go over house is a bit excessive

Steve

 

[MusicMan]

Steve,

There are four 3/8" Whitworth studs with nuts to undo. They are on the inside, right in the corners . REMOVE THE BLADE AND RIVING KNIFE. I think the blade is 5/8" Whit spanner, but note that it is a left hand thread! You can access two of the nuts from the opening in the right hand side of the saw, dropping the rise & fall mechanism fully and maybe tilting to shift the motor out of the way. Remove the zero-clearance insert, then you can remove the other two by (rather awkwardly) getting your hand in through the opening for the blade/insert.

You will probably need two people to lift off the top safely. I do (or use my hydraulic lift).

Cheaper than a big crane .

cheers

Keith

 

[ola c]

Have you removed the left and right table extensions? Much easier than to remove the entire top. The extensions are fastened with 2 (or 3) bolts on each side, threaded into the main top.

 

[SteveF]

Have you removed the left and right table extensions? Much easier than to remove the entire top. The extensions are fastened with 2 (or 3) bolts on each side, threaded into the main top.

there are no table extensions its a one piece table
i can remove fence bars that will give me a bit of extra but not quite enough
its a shame really as would rather keep it complete until I have more time
but it is sitting in the back of my van, typically I just jumped in and never got exact sizes
still working out how the hell I am going to get it from van to floor (maybe a stack of pallets so it comes out level to start with )
half tempted to remove door frame but SWMBO may object

Steve

 

[ola c]

Oh, sorry for bad advice. No extensions must mean the saw is rather new (or at least newer than mine from the 60's)

 

[katellwood]

A photo of the model may assist as I thought AGS 10's have side extensions (mine has)

 

[SteveF]

not the best pic

 

[katellwood]

If thats your saw I'm sure its got side extensions, looking at the front edge you can just about see the joint

have a look underneath left and right, you will see three bolts holding them on

If you want a photo of mine let me know

 

[Fitzroy]

Instruction manual shows the table is actually three parts,

http://www.daltonswadkin.com/wp-content ... s-List.pdf

 

[SteveF]

I stand corrected
yes it is 3 parts just been out to take a look

Steve

 

[katellwood]

will it go through the door now?

 

[SammyQ]

Steve:

1. Take fence bars off. Allen bolts, easy.
2. Take extension wings off. Three normal, hex-head bolts each. Easy, but forkin' heavy.
3. Remove throat plate, blade, riving knife.
4. Reach inside aperture (small hands help). Undo four nuts holding table top on studs. BIG AWKWARD JOB if they haven't been loosened since building saw. DAMHIKT.
5. Plan B. Upend saw, onto carpet or cardboard, Remove base of cabinet. Try 4 again from underneath. You may find motor needs unbolting too for access. Certainly makes the weight less.

You should now have 6-7 pieces of AGS. You may also still have the skin on all eight knuckles, but the saw will DEFINITELY fit through a doorway.

Have fun. Sam

PS Got pikkies somewhere of all this if you get stuck.

 

[MusicMan]

If it is too big and you don't want either or both of the extensions when you take them off, may I buy it/them?said,

+1 for wot Sam said, including the knuckle skin.

Keith

 

[SteveF]

thanks for advice so far everyone
found some old spanners so will set to it after work
it's not too big after I get it through the house
in fact I may try to fit my router table in the gap in right wing (build in progress)
will have plenty more questions I am sure
have contact for electrical engineer to sort the 3 phase, but if he can't help I will cry on here

Steve

 

[Adam9453]

Have you removed the left and right table extensions? Much easier than to remove the entire top. The extensions are fastened with 2 (or 3) bolts on each side, threaded into the main top.

there are no table extensions its a one piece table
i can remove fence bars that will give me a bit of extra but not quite enough
its a shame really as would rather keep it complete until I have more time
but it is sitting in the back of my van, typically I just jumped in and never got exact sizes
still working out how the hell I am going to get it from van to floor (maybe a stack of pallets so it comes out level to start with )
half tempted to remove door frame but SWMBO may object

Steve

Be very careful when trying to get it down, if I were you I would lower it in small stages from one pallet to the next with packing boards so you're only trying to lower it a small amount at a time. Alternatively find 3 or 4 strong mates and lift it down. If you're friendly with the local fireman then i'm sure they'd give you a hand for a drink.
We moved all my bits with either brute force (4 of us lifting) or when possible a forklift/taillift van.
If you can borrow a pallet truck it makes moving them around a doodle once near the ground.

 

[SteveF]

i can reverse up to double doors
10m through extension
single door
5m to workshop
so not a long way to travel

Steve

 

[SteveF]

well I got it indoors complete
3 strong men and myself lifted it out of van
just need to slowly dismantle

Steve

 

[SammyQ]

Way Hey! ccasion5:

I suggest you try WD40, diesel (aka heating oil), careful heating - and a second application of either liquid as anything cools?

I found a hot air gun immensely helpful where threadlock or time had 'welded' fasteners together.

The only component that beat me was the three sheave pulley on the arbour. I had no gear puller at the time and I am slightly embarrassed to confess I used a 4" grinder to slice it off in portions, with tightly clenched....teeth. I left no functional or structural damage on the arbour, but there is one (just) discernible scrape on it.

The fine adjustment on the fence is a real pig to extract too, but the teeth do wear; I'm trying to persuade an engineer friend to press them off and reassemble in reverse configuration.

Just take it easy around the upper part of the casing, it's cast. And therefore, it will break if dropped. Seriously, yes, that gurt big bit everything else is bolted to. Go easy and cushion it if you dismantle.

The lower portion is formed steel sheet and dents can be dressed out.

Daltons used to have a good series of free-to-download manuals/assembly drawings. Try "AGS 10" and "AGS 12" in their search box.

Have fun and enjoy!

Sam

PS "Dust extraction?? What dust extraction? What are you man? A eunuch? Just wait until you have a barrow-load of sawdust in the bottom of the saw and then shovel it out. All that dust'll do y'good"

Quoted from the Crotchety Foreman's Handbook, circum 1953, and still widely practised across the pond. :shock:

Sam

 

[SteveF]

i think i just need to get the table off...to get through a single door (annoyingly wasnt a door there 5 months ago)
everything seems to move ok, so maybe just a dry lubricant
dust extraction is covered once i reduce the 150mm down to 100mm
i have not found a plate to date the machine yet
I think it should be behind the dc brake which will get removed anyhow
I am not looking forward to separating the top so i will measure thrice to see if i have to (we are talking a few mm clearance)
the crown guard has a bodge extractor outlet that i will address somehow
not worked out blade removal yet
looks like there is a hole in arbour to put a locking bar in

major edit:
having been out to have another look, is there any point in trying to dust extract
there is such a gaping hole motor side I am not sure there is any point

Steve

 

[SammyQ]

Blade removal? Yup, two holes 180 degrees apart. You can make up a 'C' spanner if you like, lots do. The other thing is a big shafted screwdriver with its tip ground off? Blunt end then fits in hole.....best job if you fit the shaft to the hole, otherwise you 'round out' said hole. A GOOD, but bodge, approach is a Mole/Vicegrip latched onto the blade (make sure its jaws meet BEHIND the saw blade teeth) and then a spanner on the blade nut and the two work in opposite directions. Simples.

Dust extraction? Steve mate, that gaping hole needs a cover - and an extractor below on you 150/100 adapter. Look at Mr Fish's posts on this forum. His semi-cabinet approach is absolutely necessary as the dust this baby puts out makes smog, Beijing smog, look attractive.....just sayin' :| .

Sam