Very simple window frames for DG units

[gmgmgm]

I have some rather unattractive PVC windows, ready to fit, which I'm considering replacing with wooden frames. They are fixed ground-to-ceiling windows i.e. no openings/latches, with 3 panels roughly 1x1x.7 metres each. The glass is currently separate.

Is it a simple matter to make a wooden frame with a rebate to accept the window panels, and then use putty to hold them in place?

I have a router and a spindle moulder, but no idea if this is as simple as it looks, or I'm missing something.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Perfectly easy. I made my workshop windows when it was built from six panels from old beer fridge doors.

 

[Doug71]

Dead easy to make but don't use putty to hold the glass in, I would use glazing beads and butyl tape.

https://www.reddiseals.com/product/butyl-tape-sealant/

 

[gmgmgm]

Thanks both. The windows have arrived and it does look pretty simple to set up. I wasn't aware of butyl tape- thanks.

Any tips on specific router/moulder blades, or will anything do?

 

[tomf]

So simple if you want square edges or s light profile, just choose your timber size, 3x3 ish , make a your frame up, you can use cleaver joinery, bridal joints or just screws. Cut a rebate in the internal edge with a router and square off the edges. Then make some beads, you could use glazing tape not butyl.

The frames do not really have to be that strong as they are fully supported all the way around and the glass puts a lot of strength in it.

 

[Doug71]

I recently replaced a BIG window/doors in a barn conversion which was originally done about 20 years ago. It was about 12' high x 10' wide, pair of 2'9"x 6'6" doors in middle at bottom and glass all round, looked impressive. When I took the old one out it was just some redwood 4"x3" pse that had been screwed together with some 2"x1" pse tacked on to form the rebates. The size of it made it look impressive but basically it was just a bit of 4"x3" that the chippy had screwed together on site, no proper joinery involved at all but it did the job (obviously my new one was a bit better made).

Doug

 

[Steve Maskery]

Don't forget that you need to keep an air gap all the way around your units, including the bottom edge. You can rest the DG unit on a couple of the blue buddies that come plastered all over them.
Butyl tape is a good method, as is glazing silicone, both used with glazing beads.

 

[gmgmgm]

Thanks Steve- I wasn't aware of the need to have a gap all around (nor can I find this when googling). Is this for ventilation/drainage/thermal expansion?

Doug - thank you for the inspiring anecdote, and Tom, for a simple example.

 

[Steve Maskery]

All those
When I made mine, I sat the units on wooden blocks which came right to the front edge, then pinned my hockey-stick-profiled bottom bead through those blocks. That gives any water a way out.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

+1 for Steve's advice. I'd definitely sit the Dg unit within the rebate (I allow a nominal 5mm gap all round) on top of plastic shims (you can get them to suit the width of the unit) e.g https://www.windowware.co.uk/tools-fixi ... ng-packers - you want both glass edges supported equally on the same pacer. If any of the sashes opens (sidehung), then you need to "heel and toe" the unit in the sash on the packers/shims.

I'd also definitely prine and seal the inside of the rebate and provide drainage to outside it (moisture WILL get in, you want to let it get out again easily).

My only concern with double-sided glazing tapes is that it can mean the unit is effectively glued in when (and it is when not if) you want to replace the dg unit - I prefer to use EPDM gasket type seals e.g. https://www.reddiseals.com/news/epdm-ta ... 10m-reels/ .

Cheers, W2S