Alf
Established Member
So how d'you bring something new to a review when there's already one out there by someone who's already done the thing thoroughly and has had longer exposure to it and its development? Easy; you bring ignorance to bear. Hey, I can do that... :wink: So taking the steps that so many buyers are likely to do, I decided to try it without reading the instructions.
The jig itself is quite a large fan of aluminium, tapped with various holes to take shiny knurled brass knobs, grooved to take an aluminium fence and liberally covered with a numbered scale. All beautifully finished and far too good for a honing guide. But I digress.
With rapier insight I deduced this should be fitted in the sliding dovetailed bit at the front of the MkII instead of the registration jig provided with the guide. By a lucky guess I put it in the right way up – what appears to be “upside down”, with the scale readable from below.
The clamping widget thing has a mark on it which I assumed meant the same as with the standard registration jig, so I set it for the width of the blade I was going to hone.
Oh, so that doesn't mean that then? :roll:
Heigh ho, move it over a bit and get the blade so it's more or less centred in the blade clamp. So far, so good.
I'd already ascertained what angle the test blade bevel was already honed at (feeble excuse to use a new toy – if the low angle block had a skewed blade I'd be getting that in here too...
)
... so I assumed I should set the fence doodah at the “25” line as indicated down the side.
Still haven't a clue why I need the scale or that sticky-out bit on the fence/stop doodah, but I slid the fence along and tightened it up, then moved the blade to butt against it. All flush and I assumed ready to go? That was easy. The proof will be in the pudding.
I twizzled the micro bevel knob thing to give me a secondary bevel of, presumably, 27° and honed.
Success! I put some marker pen on the bevel so it'd smile nicely for the camera. This is using the cambered roller btw, because I forgot it was on there until after I'd finished... :roll: Note how straight it is? No extra effort required on my part.
But what's the scale and stuff for? Well lessee... The fence/stop widget flips over to put the sticky-out bit on the other side if required. So evidentally that's to accommodate skews of both left- and right-hand varieties. Neatly done.
The clamping knob happens to be apparently over-long, the excess being unthreaded, so I presume that's the “pivot” stop that lines up with the scale. Again, a pleasing bit of design. Hmm, line up the sticky-out bit on the fence with one of the lines on the scale, 45° in this case, and we can get the edge of the blade lined up with the line and get a known skew angle, huh? Right, got it.
Presupposes I have a clue what skew angles my blades are at, or that planes in particular are well-machined/built enough to have accurate skew angles across every example of model X... Not always the case, even with new planes. Think I'll stick with my scale-less method.
So how about using the stops to get a set of blades for a #46 skew combination plane all the same? First let's line up a blade I know is correct. Snug it up against the centre pivot point at one end, and butt the edge up tight against the fence (running in the correct groove for the required bevel angle of course), bring the fence along so the stop is butting against the edge of the blade at the bevel end and lock off.
Right, remove the correctly skewed blade and replace with one that's slightly off. Butt the edge against the centre pivot stop and the fence stop and tighten up. Hmm, just a fraction off the correct angle so just as well I didn't just butt the bevel against the fence any old how.
As it happens I want to hollow grind this iron, so I'll get close to the skew using the grinder anyway, but in principle... :wink: :lol:
Well now's the time to look at the instructions then. Ack, not exactly easy to read, but I think I've worked out the gist all by myself. Hah. Okay, so my terminology may be a little different... 8-[ Just one option I hadn't thought of; determining the skew angle like this:
Heck guys, while you were at it you could have put 20°, 25°, 30° and 35° notches in the top edge so I didn't have to buy the bevel angle measuring wotsit. :roll: :wink:
Anyway, it's nicely made, works very easily and does what it says. Personally I think the scale is a bit unnecessary, but if they hadn't put one I bet there would have been grumblings from all you engineering types who like scales and figures. I'd sooner take the skew angle off the plane, just in case (bitter experience in operation there); as for a chisel, well does the number of degrees really matter? But I'm sure I'm a lonely minority. Anyway, don't be put off by the scale – it's not at all confusing if you just ignore it... :lol: Do you need one? Yeah, like a hole in the head. Instead of being content to sharpen all the skew blades you already have, you'll find yourself dusting off a 5 year old to-do and making a pair of skew chisels just so you can use the damn jig... :roll:
Or is that just me...? :-k
Seriously though, you don't actually need it, any more than you needed the registration jig that came with the MkII in the first place. But like that jig it does make life that little bit easier, which is, after all, rather what a honing guide is all about.
Right, I'm off to read Derek's review now and see how I should have done it...
Skew Registration Jig £ currently unknown $24.50
Once again, I wouldn't have this to review if it hadn't been sent to me by those hockey-lovin' Canadian folks at Lee Valley. However, as usual, I've done my best to be as impartial as possible...
The jig itself is quite a large fan of aluminium, tapped with various holes to take shiny knurled brass knobs, grooved to take an aluminium fence and liberally covered with a numbered scale. All beautifully finished and far too good for a honing guide. But I digress.
With rapier insight I deduced this should be fitted in the sliding dovetailed bit at the front of the MkII instead of the registration jig provided with the guide. By a lucky guess I put it in the right way up – what appears to be “upside down”, with the scale readable from below.
The clamping widget thing has a mark on it which I assumed meant the same as with the standard registration jig, so I set it for the width of the blade I was going to hone.
Oh, so that doesn't mean that then? :roll:
Heigh ho, move it over a bit and get the blade so it's more or less centred in the blade clamp. So far, so good.
I'd already ascertained what angle the test blade bevel was already honed at (feeble excuse to use a new toy – if the low angle block had a skewed blade I'd be getting that in here too...
)
... so I assumed I should set the fence doodah at the “25” line as indicated down the side.
Still haven't a clue why I need the scale or that sticky-out bit on the fence/stop doodah, but I slid the fence along and tightened it up, then moved the blade to butt against it. All flush and I assumed ready to go? That was easy. The proof will be in the pudding.
I twizzled the micro bevel knob thing to give me a secondary bevel of, presumably, 27° and honed.
Success! I put some marker pen on the bevel so it'd smile nicely for the camera. This is using the cambered roller btw, because I forgot it was on there until after I'd finished... :roll: Note how straight it is? No extra effort required on my part.
But what's the scale and stuff for? Well lessee... The fence/stop widget flips over to put the sticky-out bit on the other side if required. So evidentally that's to accommodate skews of both left- and right-hand varieties. Neatly done.
The clamping knob happens to be apparently over-long, the excess being unthreaded, so I presume that's the “pivot” stop that lines up with the scale. Again, a pleasing bit of design. Hmm, line up the sticky-out bit on the fence with one of the lines on the scale, 45° in this case, and we can get the edge of the blade lined up with the line and get a known skew angle, huh? Right, got it.
Presupposes I have a clue what skew angles my blades are at, or that planes in particular are well-machined/built enough to have accurate skew angles across every example of model X... Not always the case, even with new planes. Think I'll stick with my scale-less method.
So how about using the stops to get a set of blades for a #46 skew combination plane all the same? First let's line up a blade I know is correct. Snug it up against the centre pivot point at one end, and butt the edge up tight against the fence (running in the correct groove for the required bevel angle of course), bring the fence along so the stop is butting against the edge of the blade at the bevel end and lock off.
Right, remove the correctly skewed blade and replace with one that's slightly off. Butt the edge against the centre pivot stop and the fence stop and tighten up. Hmm, just a fraction off the correct angle so just as well I didn't just butt the bevel against the fence any old how.
As it happens I want to hollow grind this iron, so I'll get close to the skew using the grinder anyway, but in principle... :wink: :lol:
Well now's the time to look at the instructions then. Ack, not exactly easy to read, but I think I've worked out the gist all by myself. Hah. Okay, so my terminology may be a little different... 8-[ Just one option I hadn't thought of; determining the skew angle like this:
Heck guys, while you were at it you could have put 20°, 25°, 30° and 35° notches in the top edge so I didn't have to buy the bevel angle measuring wotsit. :roll: :wink:
Anyway, it's nicely made, works very easily and does what it says. Personally I think the scale is a bit unnecessary, but if they hadn't put one I bet there would have been grumblings from all you engineering types who like scales and figures. I'd sooner take the skew angle off the plane, just in case (bitter experience in operation there); as for a chisel, well does the number of degrees really matter? But I'm sure I'm a lonely minority. Anyway, don't be put off by the scale – it's not at all confusing if you just ignore it... :lol: Do you need one? Yeah, like a hole in the head. Instead of being content to sharpen all the skew blades you already have, you'll find yourself dusting off a 5 year old to-do and making a pair of skew chisels just so you can use the damn jig... :roll:
Or is that just me...? :-k
Seriously though, you don't actually need it, any more than you needed the registration jig that came with the MkII in the first place. But like that jig it does make life that little bit easier, which is, after all, rather what a honing guide is all about.
Right, I'm off to read Derek's review now and see how I should have done it...
Skew Registration Jig £ currently unknown $24.50
Once again, I wouldn't have this to review if it hadn't been sent to me by those hockey-lovin' Canadian folks at Lee Valley. However, as usual, I've done my best to be as impartial as possible...
