Veritas plug cutter - how to avoid burning

[woof]

SO I am making some oak doors for indoors and hiding screws. I am using a veritas plug cutter for the plugs, but don't seem to be able to avoid burning the side of the plugs. When I sharpen the cutter with a file, it lasts about 2 plugs before smoke comes off and - then the sides of the plugs come out brown then black from burning.

I guess it is something with my technique. However I have tried feeding the pillar drill fast and slow with identical results. I also suppose that oak is a harder wood so the cutter is having to work harder.
Why am I bothered? Well when gluing in the plugs, it is leaving a tiny but discernible back line. Now I could gently sand the lugs individually by hand - but 50 of these per door! :shock:

Any thoughts much appreciated.
mark

 

[AndyT]

I guess that with 50 screws per door, you are making ledged and braced doors.

It's not the answer to your immediate question, but I've read somewhere (probably on here) that nails should always be used for this, not screws. Nails are not just a cheap, inferior fixing. In a L&B door, they have just enough 'give' to allow the boards to expand and contract, slightly distorting the relatively soft steel. In contrast, a screw holds tight, with the result that your vertical boards are more likely to split.
Nail heads are also simpler to hide - just punch below the surface and fill - or for a hsitoric look, seek out some rose headed nails as a decorative feature.

 

[Nelsun]

You say you've tried changing the feed speed but have you altered the drill speed itself? I'm pretty new to using plugs myself but I've had good results running the drill at a slower speed. This is with 4 flute Trend cutters which look very similar to the Veritas ones coming up on Google.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Buy your plugs from somewhere like http://www.plugitdowel.co.uk ?
£27.97 for 500 x 3/8" + £2.75 p&p.

 

[woof]

Buy your plugs from somewhere like http://www.plugitdowel.co.uk ?
£27.97 for 500 x 3/8" + £2.75 p&p.

Thanks Phil - but I did want to match the timber as close by using offcuts of the same board. Not sure if it is relevant, but I am cutting across the fibres - across the grain, to try and match the wood on the ledge

 

[woof]

I guess that with 50 screws per door, you are making ledged and braced doors.

It's not the answer to your immediate question, but I've read somewhere (probably on here) that nails should always be used for this, not screws. Nails are not just a cheap, inferior fixing. In a L&B door, they have just enough 'give' to allow the boards to expand and contract, slightly distorting the relatively soft steel. In contrast, a screw holds tight, with the result that your vertical boards are more likely to split.
Nail heads are also simpler to hide - just punch below the surface and fill - or for a hsitoric look, seek out some rose headed nails as a decorative feature.

I did consider the nail option and what you say makes loads of sense. I have spent extra care to flatten the sides by hand planing so I do not have to force the boards to meet when clamping, but I suspect you are right they may split regardless. I would also say that I acclimatised the boards in the eaves for.... 6 years (long story - but only just now getting round to this project) so they are starting with a moisture content of 6-7%. But regardless - it will fluctuate.
When and if they split, well just have to put it down to character!

The other reason to use screws on the four ledges - was to try and limit warping. I did look at suppliers for doors online and how to assemble, and they did use screws. Time will tell but you could well be right - thanks for your input!

 

[woof]

You say you've tried changing the feed speed but have you altered the drill speed itself? I'm pretty new to using plugs myself but I've had good results running the drill at a slower speed. This is with 4 flute Trend cutters which look very similar to the Veritas ones coming up on Google.

Now that is something I did not think about... need to find the manual but have a feeling I need to dig around in the head of the pillar drill. Thanks

 

[blackrodd]

Buy your plugs from somewhere like http://www.plugitdowel.co.uk ?
£27.97 for 500 x 3/8" + £2.75 p&p.

+1 For above, I use Disston plug cutters among others, and they all seem to burn very easily,
The but as phi.p says I now buy mine in when I can, one job less for me.
The best plug cutter is the Trend type that looks like it has 4 legs, not the circular type they are better for softwoods
Here's a vid showing the fairly slow cutting speed in oak, a drill press is best.
Rodders
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7cYwFlzfN0

 

[Adam9453]

When I sharpen the cutter with a file, it lasts about 2 plugs before smoke comes off and - then the sides of the plugs come out brown then black from burning.

I suspect you have overheated the bit itself, ruining the temper of the steel and made it dull. It therefore may not cut properly from now on and may require you to buy a new cutter.

I've had it happen with diamond drill bits going through porcelain tiles (blooming hard stuff)

 

[CHJ]

Does sound as though the basic problem is speed of cutter, slowest cutter speed available and steady positive feed rate is the better option to avoid heating.

 

[woof]

Wow thank you guys. Was the drill speed. I had a look at the pulleys inside and was at 2180/min. Moved the belts around to slowest speed - 210/min. What a difference. No burning now. Thanks again

 

[woodcarver]

Trend do a tct tapered cutter you can use in a router.
when we make thes type of doors we make a groove on the spindle and hide the screws under a moulding inserted into groove .