Using T&G Oak Floor as Decking

[mofodave]

Hi All,

I have recently moved house and have managed to salvaged about 13m2 of 20.5mm thick, 185x1800mm tongue and groove Oak floor boards which I was hoping to machine down into planks with the intention of installing is a decking in my new garden. I already have it in my mind how the design would be but wanted a little input on the possible pitfalls of using this wood externally. The product that I have is a Junckers wideboard which is lacquered. Junckers can be found by googling.

My thoughts were to machine the board to c.155mm wide so all T&Gs were removed and then run the boards through a thicknesser and then treat them to provide protection to the elements.

Any comments that you guys can provide on doing this with this type of board, how it might be affected by installing it outside and also what type of fixings should be used with Oak would be much appreciated.

 

[Richard S]

Depends what type of oak it is, English, European and American white oaks are considered durable external timbers, Red oak and most others are not. It is best left unfinished and will weather down to a silvery grey colour, otherwise you are committed to constantly re-oiling the timber, probably several times a year to maintain a consistent and attractive finish.

 

[mofodave]

Thanks Richard. These boards are a European Oak so it sounds like they may be ok. In terms of the fixings, I have read elsewhere that stainless steel screws are best used. Is this something that you have knowledge of? My understanding was that steel screws would discolour the wood around the areas they penetrate.

 

[carlb40]

If the reason for putting them through the thicknesser is to keep them all the same thickness? It shouldn't make a difference. If you are doing the typical decking thing of leaving a gap between boards, then any variances will not show up. Unless one is drastically thicker/thinner than the one next to it.

 

[carlb40]

Thanks Richard. These boards are a European Oak so it sounds like they may be ok. In terms of the fixings, I have read elsewhere that stainless steel screws are best used. Is this something that you have knowledge of? My understanding was that steel screws would discolour the wood around the areas they penetrate.

Yes that is true, the tannin reacts with the steel and you get black marks.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Stainless screws shouldn't cause staining - make sure you use stainless screwdriver bits. Either that or use brass, you'll need to pre-bore well or they're likely to snap.

 

[mofodave]

Thanks for the advice all.

Carlb40, the reason for running them through the thicknesser was more to shave the tops slightly in order to remove the lacquer coats that have been applied so I can then treat them for external use. I would like them to remain as near to their current finish as possible, and therefore re-oiling them several times a year as Richard suggested wouldn't bother me.

I am assuming that this would be the right way to go about it, or perhaps I should leave the lacquer on? They have 4 coats applied at the factory when being manufactured.

 

[carlb40]

I would remove the lacquer as no doubt it is only applied to the top? So yes your plan sounds good

 

[Richard S]

Dave
Sorry been at work all day and the others have beaten me to it. Stay away from ferrous metal fixings, your only real practical option is stainless, brass would work but will be a bugger to use. Try tongue tite stainless they are made for just this sort of job. Get rid of the lacquer it will just blow and look awful within weeks if not days, ease the edges of he boards after you've ripped the t&g off to save splintering.
HTH

Cheers
Richard