Hi, I am making a greenhouse (lean to) and want to use lead to cover wooden joists that hold glass in the roof area. Was thinking of using lead to cover the the joists and edge of galss to stop water ingress. Has anyone seen this or done it? I thought I had but maybe I am mistaken?
Using lead help
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Yojevol
Clocking on
I don't think you'll be able to get a good seal between the lead and the glass. Water will seep through and be trapped there. It may cause more harm than good. I've had a similar problem on a plastic sheeted canopy, but I used Flashband. It's flexible and will adhere to the glass very well. You'll need to prime the wooden joists with the recommended primer to get good adherence. The smallest Flashband width is 6" so you may have to cut it to get a more suitable width.
Brian
Brian
Ollie78
Established Member
I must respectfully disagree with Yojevol on the use of adhesive flashband.
The way lead is normally used in a flashing is that it will be fixed into the brick or onto the timber on the vertical face, but will be "floating" over the glass or tiles below.
This means it does not need to flex but allows for considerable movement.
Adhesive flashband normally fails eventually and leaves a right mess, lead will last centuries if done right.
If there is enough slope to the roof and enough overlap of the lead then you should be fine.
Problems often come where people cap over window cills and stuff after they have started to rot out, by which time it is too late.
Don't forget to use patination oil or the lead will go white and look rubbish.
Ollie
The way lead is normally used in a flashing is that it will be fixed into the brick or onto the timber on the vertical face, but will be "floating" over the glass or tiles below.
This means it does not need to flex but allows for considerable movement.
Adhesive flashband normally fails eventually and leaves a right mess, lead will last centuries if done right.
If there is enough slope to the roof and enough overlap of the lead then you should be fine.
Problems often come where people cap over window cills and stuff after they have started to rot out, by which time it is too late.
Don't forget to use patination oil or the lead will go white and look rubbish.
Ollie
MARK.B.
Established Member
As above for the lead on the wall plate , flashband could be cut to width and used on the framing timbers holding the glass which i think was refering too
Google a product called ‘Easy lead’, it’s similar to flashband but more heavy duty and is in fact a lead replacement, used where the theft of lead may be an issue. There are other similar products out there, Klober and Wakaflex being a couple.
Lead can be used but, to gain a water tight seal and still provide water escapes if the seal breaches, takes a lot of effort. Lead also becomes pretty heavy unless a skinny profile is used and a skinny profile sometimes results in insufficient fall and this defeats the object. I have repaired a rubbish joint between two panes where somebody else had stuck a lump of soft wood over the panes with half a cartridge of sealant. The wood had rotted and water was then seeping in. Doing the repair properly took at least an hour. I wouldn't want to do a large structure with it.
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