Useing Cellulose Sanding sealer

[sawdust maker]

Hi All

I am making a cabinet out of solid wood. The side panel are quite wide and I am worried about movement. Had a thought that if I used Cellulose Sanding Sealer on the wood before finishing this would seal the wood and reduce the problem. But will this create a problem with the final finish. I am planning to use Button Polish as a final finish. any ideas?
Thanks Paul

 

[mr]

I could be completely wrong but I wouldn't have thought cellulose sanding sealer would have much effect in terms of restricting movement. Nor would I think it would have an adverse effect on your finish. I use it under wax a lot and it works nicely for that I think. In terms of wood movement you're better off designing around the issue or veneering a more solid substrate.
Cheers Mike

 

[CHJ]

Paul, like Mike, I don't think it will help your perceived problem other than slowing the reaction down a bit, on the finishing front, by button polish I assume you mean a Shellac base, if so no problem, use the two regularly on turnings and small pieces although the sealer is not strictly necessary as the shellac does the same job, adhesion is fine. I just prefer to use sealer first as it dries hard quicker if a final de-nib is required.

 

[sawdust maker]

Thanks Mike and Chas

As for the movement thing. It says on the tin it will prevent moisture movement between the wood and the environment. I intend to put it on all surfaces of the wide boards not just the face that will have the Button polish on.

Paul

 

[Sgian Dubh]

...It says on the tin it will prevent moisture movement between the wood and the environment. I intend to put it on all surfaces of the wide boards not just the face that will have the Button polish on. Paul

No polish is waterproof, but some are more water resistant than others. Liquid water is one thing and water vapour is another.

Liquid water of course will eventually penetrate any finish, but at the microscopic level molecules of water vapour pass through finishes also.

The more complete the film, the better is the water resistance. For example, wax and oil finishes don't form much of a film-- they don't really form a film at all is the truth of it although many coats of boiled linseed oil do eventually form a reasonably water resistant finish.

One coat of varnish doesn't form much of a film either and both liquid water and water vapour pass relatively easily through thin films like this. Three coats of varnish form a more resistant film than one, and ten coats is more water resistant again. Three or ten coats of varnish will take standing water quite well. For instance, leave a puddle of water overnight on either coat thickness and the chances are that you'll be able to wipe the water off next day without problems to either the wood or the varnish.

Shellac resists water and water vapour better than most people realise. I wouldn't bother with the cellulose sanding sealer if you want a shellac finish, ie, button polish. I'd use shellac all the way through.

If you're concerned that successive applications of button polish will darken the piece too much use a lighter colour or super-blonde (bleached) shellac for your earlier coats and follow up with your darker shellac towards the end.

I don't know how you plan to apply the shellac, but, for instance, you might spray two coats of super-blonde shellac followed by one or two of your darker button polish. You can of course brush on shellac or french polish.

Personally I prefer a spray gun to get the stuff on quickly and rub down to my preferred flatness and sheen later. Slainte.