RogerS
Established Member
I've extracted this from the ongoing thread here in Projects.
The problem is fixing this drawer unit.
Drawer
It reminds me a bit of the Irishman, on being asked for some directions, said "Well, I wouldn't be starting from here". It would have been so much easier just to have had another door and simply grovelled around inside for the Hoover and dragged the bits out one by one. But when I suggested the idea to Chief Designer I saw a definite facial expression of approval.
Plan A is to have a flush mounted elm panelled door sitting on the front of a drawer that will contain the Hoover and stuff. I rather fancied those push to open/push to close runners from Hafele and that's what I've bought. But how to mount it all ? Plan is to treat the drawer as a stand-alone unit and pre-make it on the bench, adding the front door when it's all in situ. So first we need an outer carcass on which to mount the runners. But space is tight under there and every millimetre counts as I will lose precious space with the actual drawer.
So three attempts later, having discovered that the builder had not levelled the concrete underneath the stairs very well, the carcass is temporarily stuffed in the hole.
and therein lies the rub as I can't really see my way forward. Theory says that it needs to be perfectly level and vertical. Not only that it needs to be coplanar with the front of the panelling otherwise when I mount the door, it is going to stick out of line at some point or another. Thoughts are to stick a batten on the stair riser to the left of shot and then screw the lefthand carcass side to it. But I can guarantee that the riser won't be coplanar to the front panelling. I can also guarantee the riser is not parallel to that grotty softwood support frame to the rh side.
Wedges underneath? I can just about get some in down the lh side but not a snowball's on the rh side because of the bottom bearer of that softwood support frame.
Another idea is to fix some of those nut inserts into the base plate and run a threaded studding down through until it touches the floor. If I put a slot in the top of the threaded studding then I could screw the carcass up or down.
Maybe I need to sleep on it.
OR maybe you guys can help?
Plan B
Make the front door simply hinged. The drawer stays as it is. So open the door..push the drawer in to release it and pull it out. Somehow that seems like cheating.
The problem is fixing this drawer unit.
Drawer
It reminds me a bit of the Irishman, on being asked for some directions, said "Well, I wouldn't be starting from here". It would have been so much easier just to have had another door and simply grovelled around inside for the Hoover and dragged the bits out one by one. But when I suggested the idea to Chief Designer I saw a definite facial expression of approval.
Plan A is to have a flush mounted elm panelled door sitting on the front of a drawer that will contain the Hoover and stuff. I rather fancied those push to open/push to close runners from Hafele and that's what I've bought. But how to mount it all ? Plan is to treat the drawer as a stand-alone unit and pre-make it on the bench, adding the front door when it's all in situ. So first we need an outer carcass on which to mount the runners. But space is tight under there and every millimetre counts as I will lose precious space with the actual drawer.
So three attempts later, having discovered that the builder had not levelled the concrete underneath the stairs very well, the carcass is temporarily stuffed in the hole.
and therein lies the rub as I can't really see my way forward. Theory says that it needs to be perfectly level and vertical. Not only that it needs to be coplanar with the front of the panelling otherwise when I mount the door, it is going to stick out of line at some point or another. Thoughts are to stick a batten on the stair riser to the left of shot and then screw the lefthand carcass side to it. But I can guarantee that the riser won't be coplanar to the front panelling. I can also guarantee the riser is not parallel to that grotty softwood support frame to the rh side.
Wedges underneath? I can just about get some in down the lh side but not a snowball's on the rh side because of the bottom bearer of that softwood support frame.
Another idea is to fix some of those nut inserts into the base plate and run a threaded studding down through until it touches the floor. If I put a slot in the top of the threaded studding then I could screw the carcass up or down.
Maybe I need to sleep on it.
OR maybe you guys can help?
Plan B
Make the front door simply hinged. The drawer stays as it is. So open the door..push the drawer in to release it and pull it out. Somehow that seems like cheating.
