Turning chisels

[Davegree]

Being new to turning I have collected a few old turning chisels, which are old carbon, I believe, steel. I have been told that I need to be looking at HSS tools. There are so many on the market, but I have to start acquiring some. I like the look and the reviews I read about Sorby and Ashley Isles chisels, but they are very expensive. I understand that it is best to get the best you can afford, but is there really such a difference when tools made by Crown & Axminster, for example, are also HSS?

 

[lurker]

So long as you grind carefully and properly there is nowt wrong with carbon steel.
I'd not rush out to buy HSS as your turning will not miraculously improve as a result.
Like most turners I have umpteen chisels but only use 3 or 4 , 90% of the time.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

High carbon steel tools cut better than high speed steel tools when they are sharp but they don't hold their edge anywhere near as long. As long as you sharpen when needed, the choice of steel isn't important. If you want to spend more time turning and less time sharpening, the choice of steel is important!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you think to buy HSS, buy bowl gouges and a roughing gouge first. They take far more hammering than the others, so the edge retention is important.

 

[OldDave]

I spent a a month or so using communal tools at the club I go to before buying myself a 6-pack of Sorby’s...
Absolutely no regrets & the consistency of using the same tools has definitely increased my confidence.

 

[Robbo3]

Only one comment to make about sharpening carbon steel tools - if you overheat the metal so that it turns blue then you have to remove all the blued area to get back to metal that will hold a good edge.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

and don't quench HSS ones.

 

[That would work]

Hi, I would definitely go for HSS tools. I have turned my own handles for most of mine which saved a bit of money at the time and personalises them as well

 

[J-G]

and don't quench HSS ones.

Again I have to say - DO quench - by that I mean cool in water when the tool is too warm to hold comfortably in the hand - - - just don't overheat, ever.

Quenching really means rapid cooling when heat-treating steel to avoid low-temperature processes taking place. It does not mean dipping in water to reduce the temperature of a tool during the sharpening process.

Normal tool 'sharpening' should always involve only light pressure on the wheel (or belt). Re-shaping may need more time in contact with the wheel (belt) but should still not mean that the steel gets even to light straw, never mind red heat.

 

[Davegree]

Thanks for the feedback! I will stick to the carbon for a while and only when ready look at HSS.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Again I have to say - DO quench - by that I mean cool in water when the tool is too warm to hold comfortably in the hand - - - just don't overheat, ever.
Quenching really means rapid cooling when heat-treating steel to avoid low-temperature processes taking place. It does not mean dipping in water to reduce the temperature of a tool during the sharpening process.

You appear to have contradicted yourself. :?

 

[That would work]

Clearly a hot topic :shock: quenching certainly does refer to part of the actual heat treatment/hardening and tempering process during manufacture. When grinding/sharpening, if the tool overheats ie reaches a temperature over its tempering zone it will change its properties (be softer, more/less brittle etc). Now, if the quench is done at the exact same temperature as the ORIGINAL heat treatment was done there will be no change to the properties of the steel. So the important thing here is to not allow the tool to get too hot when you grind it (dip it in water frequently) some say "quench" :roll:

 

[J-G]

You appear to have contradicted yourself. :?

Not really Phil - - just a pedantic use of the word 'Quench', which I see used inappropriately far too often in forums where the process ought to be better understood.

 

[That would work]

I'm off to buy a whetstone :wink: