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Turning a large rod

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Jacob

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I've done several large curtain rails, banner poles and a flag post by hand in the usual way ; mark circle each end and join up the marks with hand planes, 4,8,16 sides, finish with block plane, sand paper etc
This time it was a short one 44mm x 1200 from 62mm square so I though I do it on my new old lathe. I've done shaped table legs before but nothing this long or parallel sided.
Wotta pain in the Rs! Seemed to take ages, noise, dust, worst of all getting it straight parallel sided and clean finished.
Is there a knack or is it simply a bad idea and easier on the bench? Or on the spindle moulder if enough to make it worth setting up?
 

CHJ

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The easy answer is to use a pattern makers lathe.
But as that ain't an option, use a parting tool to create story board points along the length using callipers or suitable open ended spanner to set the aiming diameter.
Join up these shorter sections with a Spindle gouge or if your confident enough a Skew chisel.
Finish off sanding along the length with abrasive supported by a square block of wood a little longer than your SB points to level things off.
 

Jacob

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Thanks for that - that's more or less how I did it. I guess it's just more practice!
 

CHJ

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I use a Continental style spindle gouge a lot, I find it easier to hit the sweet spot than either a regular spindle gouge or a chunkier Spindle roughing gouge.
spindle-gouge.jpg
 

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Jacob

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Right ho. I'll look into it.
Not cheap; 1" £50 or more!!
 

LancsRick

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I'd use a skew for that once I'd roughed it to just above thickness with a fingernail spindle gouge probably.
 

Jacob

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Might be doing more of this so ordered the continental gouge 1". My old roughing out gouge works OK but it's a bit light and flimsy and I haven't bought a new gouge in years.
I think I'd do more shaping on the bench next time - I like planing, it's quick and there's no dust, noise, flying bits of wood.
Will a skew remove a lot of material or is it just for fine finishing?
 

ColeyS1

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This wouldnt take very long to setup on the spindle. Obviously allow an extra 6 inches for length when the last bit of the final cut has a wobble.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

Jacob

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ColeyS1":28vroyce said:
This wouldnt take very long to setup on the spindle. Obviously allow an extra 6 inches for length when the last bit of the final cut has a wobble.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Well yes, and that's how commercial dowels are made as far as I know.
Except I'd have to grind a 44mm dia cutter.
 

Lazurus

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I found the biggest problem is with vibration on long items, a center steady helps or support with your other hand if you are confident, did a few walking sticks this way not easy to get a ripple free finish if it vibrates.
 

Jacob

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Hornbeam":1rq7xtf3 said:
The best way to make a long rod is to use a rounder such as the ones sold by Ashen Crafts http://www.ashemcrafts.com/
I have 1 of them from a project that needed about 40ft or 11/2 inch oak dowel
Ian
I've seen them but can't help thinking my own hand method would be a lot quicker: plane square, mark up plane 45º to make octagon, hand finish with long plane then smaller plane. Quite enjoyable too.
I keep meaning to make one of those crafty spar makers gauges with two pins. Bugbear wrote it up years ago. Where is he now, anybody know?
 

Trevanion

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Jacob":1rutl4b2 said:
Bugbear wrote it up years ago. Where is he now, anybody know?
I was wondering that myself when I was looking through some old threads, seemed to be a very knowledgeable and prolific contributor and just disappeared into thin air.

I hope it's not what I think it is, but it comes for us all in the end I suppose.
 

Jacob

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Trevanion":2y8qesov said:
...
I hope it's not what I think it is, but it comes for us all in the end I suppose.
What going off in a bad tempered huff, never to return? He'll be back! Just when you thought it was safe to go into the water. :shock:
 

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