Turn a simple knob

[dp341]

Hi all,

I've been lurking around here quite a while and finally decided it was time to post. I'm new to all this so probably won't be able to add much to the collective wisdom yet, but hope to benefit from the experience of others to learn.

I have a Jet JML-1014 Mini, with just the accessories it came with and a few basic tools. I've done a little spindle turning, simple things like tool handles but nothing much, yet. I need to turn a front knob for a plane I've been restoring, I made a new handle from Sycamore the other week and want a knob to match.

The thing is I don't really know where to start, I think I have the required tools (a parting tool and a spindle gouge) but how should I secure the work, do I need to buy something or is there a way to use what I have? I'm happy enough to buy a few bits and pieces, especially if they'll be generally useful as I develop in the future.

Another question that comes to mind is should I be drilling the center hole while it's on the lathe (I've seen that in a few youtube clips but drilled the holes in my tool handles after turning using a hand-drill)?

Anyhow, you all seem like a helpful bunch so I thought I'd seek an opinion or two.

Cheers

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Others may come up with something different, but I find anything that needs a hole in it is best turned after the hole is drilled - the hole is always dead centre then.

If you bore the hole first, it matters little whether you do it on or off the lathe - do what's easiest.

 

[nev]

Yep drill the hole first.
Welcome dp.

if you do not have a chuck (yet) you should be able to turn a knob between centres. Its a little trickier but still do-able.

i would start with (lets say) a block 2x2x4 , mark the centre of the two 2x2 ends and drill your hole to depth at one of them. This hole then becomes the tailstock support end.
Then using a 2 prong drive or similar, mount between centres and rough to round.
Then starting at the base of the knob (tailstock end) shape your knob leaving a fair tenon at the drive end, say 10mm dia. finish the bottom 3/4's of the knob and sand.
then gently finish the top of the knob reducing the tenon bit by bit til youre down to about 4-5 mm, then saw it off and cut the remaining tenon off with a sharp chisel , sand and finish.
You will have to take light cuts with sharp tools to prevent it leaving the lathe at speed but its all good practice

I'm sure someone will be along with a more sensible way to do it, but thats the way I'd go at it.

hope it all makes sense, if not, ask away, easier to do than explain i think

 

[dp341]

if you do not have a chuck (yet) you should be able to turn a knob between centres. Its a little trickier but still do-able.

Thanks for the answers so far, would having a chuck make this easier? Seems from what I've read that I'd want one eventually, any recommendations or things to look for?

thanks again,

 

[nev]

if you do not have a chuck (yet) you should be able to turn a knob between centres. Its a little trickier but still do-able.

Thanks for the answers so far, would having a chuck make this easier? Seems from what I've read that I'd want one eventually, any recommendations or things to look for?

thanks again,

The advantage of the chuck is that it can hold the work securely from one end so removing the need for the tailstock support on certain items.
As to which chuck, which jaws etc thats a whole new can of worms have a search of the forum (top right) for 'which chuck' or the usual suspects by name ... Nova G3, Sorby Patriot, versachuck, XT700, XT450,

http://www.axminster.co.uk/chucks-and-c ... 08156_pg1/
https://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psPr ... i?promo=27
https://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/products/lathe-chucks
http://www.peterchild.co.uk/chucks/scrollchuck.htm

 

[dp341]

Excellent, I'm happy to research but sometimes you need a pointer to know what you need to research! I shall get reading.

cheers

 

[bobham]

You might find something in this thread: turning-end-grain-plane-knob-biting-in-alot-question-t39185.html

Good Luck!
Bob

 

[Sportique]

Bob,

thanks for the link

You might find something in this thread: turning-end-grain-plane-knob-biting-in-alot-question-t39185.html

It certainly solved at least one of my turning difficulties.

Interesting topic, turning end grain.

Dave

 

[jumps]

this is a classic exercise in which it's easy to overcomplicate the issues.

there is also the significant aspect of what other tools you have available.

in practice, having a full set of options, I wouldn't drill first here and would proceed as follows -

1. select timber, noting the grain as emphasised by the excellent thread, and videos, linked by Bob!
2. mount it along the grain between a prong of some sort (steb in my case) and a live centre, initially with the proposed base at the live centre.
3. rough to a cylinder, and then square off cleanly to the live centre - this provides the square base that will ensure the drill press is aligned later.
4. reverse your mounting (it should re-seat in the two dimples perfectly) and turn to shape as covered in the videos!
5. drill on a drill press with the base on the table (ie holding it square) and you have preset centred drill reference, plus you can control the countersinking etc

you could do 1-3 then mount in a chuck, through drill on the lathe, turn, part off and countersink

you could drill the piece first then mount between a jamb chuck of some sort (tapered wod or light pull centre etc) and a live centre, turn, part the base square and countersink

you could even just drill a pilot hole, mount block on a screw chuck, turn, remove and drill through the pilot hole then countersink

and I'm sure there are more!

enjoy the choices; it should never be a chore.

 

[Jacob]

I've done a lot of very traditional knobs and have settled on the one technique;
1 mount a blank as long as you like, along the grain.
2 turn it to just above desired diameter
3 turn knob shape at the dead end just leaving a nub end to be trimmed off last from the face.
4 turn a spigot behind the knob to desired diameter. An open ended spanner is handy here as a gauge
5 Stop the turning and cut off the knob + spigot
6 clean up the face and the nub end with the dead end centre mark
7 remount the blank one knobsworth short and repeat.

Knobs with spigots are much easier to fit and are very permanent. The trick is to drill a blind hole for the spigot but then go through the bottom with a 1mm drill. This releases air as you push in the knob + glue and is virtually invisible.