TS2500ci questions

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whybob71

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Naples, Italy
Hi all,
from fews weeks the scheppach TS2500ci is in my lab :p . I like the machine, but I have some questions.....

1) The (phenolic?) two-pieces insert in the table seems to be not 100% flat when mounted on the table top, even if is flush with it. These make difficult to me to square the blade with the table top. I tried to adjust it by moving the four screws but I'm not happy with the result. Finally I adjusted the squareness of the blade by removing the insert and by using a 6" good square. Even so, I'm not confident with what I did......... :?

2) I would like to buy the 200 mm adjustable grooving cutter (or trying to fit the 200 mm CMT dado blade): do I also need the table insert and collar nut?

many thanks
Roberto
 
If you buy the groover that Scheppach supply you will difinately need the collar and nut, a table insert would be needed to accommodate the much wider blade (s) (these came with my groover kit)

Ask Scheppach for new inserts if they are that bad.

(I,m visiting Italy next month.(North)
 
I see.........I will take the collar nut with the special "cutter". Maybe the new insert is better than the one I have now........

thanks for the replay :lol:
and have a nice trip to Italy (the weather is now reeeeeely nice)! :wink:
 
Roberto,

I have made my own inserts for saws using good quality plywood or the low friction plastic from axminster. I stick the original one on to the new material with double sided carpet tape and trim to a rough shape on the bandsaw. The final shape is cut with a bearing guided router bit. I then used a rebate cutter in the router to cut the rebate, if required. I drilled through the fixing holes on one and through the leveling screw holes on the other. I found that pan head self tappers worked for leveling if required.

On the table saw I lower the blade under the table, fit the blank, secure with the fence and a clamped on batten, start the saw and slowly raise the blade up through the blank. You should end up with a good zero clearance insert.

I used this to make an insert for my dado cutter, so it should work for the grooving cutter.
 
many thanks!
Yesterday I checked the blade position on my table saw. I first squared it at exactly 90° on the top table. However the blade is not parallel to the two mitre slots. It's out of +0.20 mm from the first to the last tooth (on the right). I didn't find out how to adjust the blade parallelism..... :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
First of all confirm that you are using the same tooth to do the measurements (mark with white chalk and then spin to the front or back)

I found on my tablesaw it depended at what height the blade was raised, and that then produced different measurements. That means your blade might be parallel to the slots but the blade has moved sideways.
 
Hi, thanks for the advice.
I checked the parallelism of the blade by using a dial gauge firmly attached to an hardwood shop-made mitre fence, that tightly fits the mitre slots. I raised up all the blade and I made several measurements on the blade body (not using the teeth) by moving the mitre fence. I repeated it for the two mitre slots.

Does the machine have an adjusting system to fine regulate the blade position and parallelism??
 
The manual does not give the instructions either. :roll: :x

If your English is up to it you could telephone NMA agencies in the UK and ask for Alan.

Or Germany scheppach telephone number 082 83/40 02-0

Do you have any manual for this machine?
 
the machine is new, never used. The manual is almost useless. My english is good but I'm not sure to be able to really understand all I need to fix the machine. If I'm not able to do it myself I will try to make a call.
BTW many thanks for you interest....
 
I know that this post is really late but I have just joined the forum. For anyone wanting to know, my TS2500CI blade wasn't parallel to the mitre slots. I fixed the problem by loosening the four bolts that hold the motor/blade mechanism to the underneath of the cast iron table and adjusted it until the blade was parallel to the mitre slots. It didn't take very long and now my machine is 100% accurate.
 
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