I spent Sunday doing just that.
Firstly; You shouldn't need to slacken off the bolts holding the table to the carcase, Leave them done up or everything moves around too much.
Once the four suspension bolts are loosened you should be able to move the adjusting blocks pretty easily, but my experience (like yours) was that although the back block moved freely, the front was very difficult to move.
I loosened off all the blade adjustments; middle of the range cutting depth, loosened angle setting and took it just off perpendicular. Still no freedom at the front end, annoying as it's position meant there wasn't enough adjustment at the other end to square things up.
Next take off the sliding table support arms to allow access to the front adjusting block, then hit it hard via a drift (actually a 12" socket set extension bar). That finally moved the front assembly enough (probably just a millimetre and a half overall) to use the back adjustment to square it all up. No idea why the front should be so hard to shift though.
Final result parallel to the guide to with +/- 0.015mm which is approaching the limits of my measuring reliability.
A while re-adjusting rip fence, mitre fence and the sliding table and all is now well.
The TS200 is hardly the most elegant bit of engineering, but it does seem to work fine once fettled up properly. Given the lack of anything substantially better for that particular spec. it's the only option for many of us.