Triton Workcentre series 2000

[jimmy1209]

Hey,

I have been looking for a first table saw and came across the triton workcentre. I watched the demonstration videos which show a number of safety features which impressed me. Has anyone had any experience with the triton and how accurate is it compared with cheap table saws of around the same price... How easy is it to calibrate the saw to give a good straight cut? Has anyone had any problems with the unit? I would mainly be ripping planks and cutting boards, mainly plywood.

Thanks in advance

James

 

[sparkus88]

Hi I was in the same position as you cheap TS or Workcentre. I went for a cheap TS and regretted it fairly quickly so now have a workcentre. It is more accurate than a cheap TS but is quite time consuming to get it absolutely perfect. The massive bonus for it though is the huge ripping capacity ,it handles large sheets easily. But it is quite expensive it you buy everything new once you add all the different accessories. Finding a 2nd hand one with everything is the way to go. HTH

Mark

 

[marcros]

when you say pallets, what are you doing with them? You could look at a plunge/track saw for sheet material which you may not have considered.

Interesting thread here track-saws-what-point-am-i-missing-t60223.html?hilit=track%20saw

I believe the poster may also be a triton workcentre user (IIRC), so you may get some useful thoughts...

 

[jimmy1209]

hey,
Thank you both very much I noticed that the triton workcentre has a splitter rather than a riving knife. Have you ever had any problems with kickback on the unit? Compared with a sawbench at the site saws same price would you say the workcentre is still worth it in terms of accuracy.

Marcros - Would you be able to recommend some track saws that I could look at? Many thanks.

James

 

[sparkus88]

as long as you use the overhead guard with the WC then you won't have any kick back problems. It has 2 small flexible fingers that keeps it pushed down against the surface.

 

[Benchwayze]

James,

The splitter and the riving knife, as far as I know, are just different names for the same thing. If someone knows I am wrong, please pipe up.
Its job is to prevent the kerf closing on the back of the spinning blade, thus preventing kick-back (or to be more precise, I would say chuck-back!) Either way it's 'mind your head' time! The Triton saw-guard also has a small feature that holds down thin pieces beside the blade preventing 'flutter'.

I used a Triton Mark 3 for about 18 years, and with an Elu circular saw I never had cause to grumble about it. Although, I didn't often use the saw-table mode. It makes a good overhead cross-cutting saw, but wide panels had to be 'plunge-cut' to start them, and the old style circular saws didn't plunge well. Also you had to turn the work piece over, and cut again to complete the cut on wide stuff.

The Triton overhead mode is super for cross-cutting to ensure four pieces are cut to the same length for legs and rails. You can cut four 4 x 2s for instance, in one go. This isn't advisable on a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw even though the Triton is now superceded by these saws.

I bought a Triton 2000 a few months ago, but I just could not get it to go together properly.

If I fixed the aluminium slide-rails first, the bottom rails wouldn't go into the end panels. If I fixed the bottom rails in first, the slide-rails wouldn't assemble, and the whole frame assembly was twisted. I have manged to get it together now, by putting the bottom rails on the outside. Looks a mess, but it's square, and it works. It's a fiddle getting the saw set-up parallel with the fence, as Triton don't use the mitre-guide channel for this.

I also got the Triton circular saw to go with it. This saw has a very positive, geared mechanism which makes plunge-cutting easy.

But I will be honest and say IMO there are just two ways to handle 8 x 4 sheets satisfactorily.
A: A purpose built dimension saw with a full-size sliding table, for which you need a huge shop and a huge wallet.
or
B: A track-saw, with a good support table underneath it.

I am in the process of getting track-saw. The Triton I shall write off, as it's not even sale worthy. I suppose I should ask for my money back, but it came from Europe, so I don't think the hassle would be worth it. If it comes in for the occasional job I might keep it assembled, with a worktop over it! The Triton saw, which is very noisy, I shall use as a circular saw for rough reducing long planks.

Summing up: In the 'YouTube' videos, the Triton is used in a 'socking great' workshop, and it does look good. Also remember, anything wrong with the saw they used, and they'd get another from stock. So the operators make things look easy, and the saw looks to be great. My old Mark 3 was fine to be honest, but if I was going to stay with a Triton, I would reassemble the Mark 3, and clean it up. (Maybe I'd use the new saw and saw-carrier, frame, as it is better than the old one) But that's all I would change.

My advice? Go for a track saw. It's cheaper in the long run, even if you buy Festool. The reason I am going for the Festool, is the parallel guide set that's available, and made to marry to the track-saw, making it more like an overhead, panel saw.

HTH

 

[marcros]

hey,
Thank you both very much I noticed that the triton workcentre has a splitter rather than a riving knife. Have you ever had any problems with kickback on the unit? Compared with a sawbench at the site saws same price would you say the workcentre is still worth it in terms of accuracy.

Marcros - Would you be able to recommend some track saws that I could look at? Many thanks.

James

James,

There are various discussion threads on here. I don't have one, so wouldn't know a good one from a bad one...

Mark

 

[jack55]

Hi I used a Triton 2000 work center for a few years. If its just used for a table saw then I think its now over priced and for what you pay you could get an Axminster TS. If your get the router table to go with it then it is fine if your limited in space or need to move the kit about. I thought it was well. the splitter helps stop the wood from binding on the blade and kicking back. Its a major headache collecting the dust and it goes everywhere.

 

[devonwoody]

I started back into woodwork using machinery with the workcentre 2000, if you need to reclaim working space it folds away, its the thing, if you need to take it to a job its very handy.

It does cut accurately and some of the sawing accessories are handy.

If you can pick up a second hand one with the Triton saw I would recommend.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I too considered the Triton WC but by the time you buy the accesories it can mount up price wise very quickly. I belive the Triton circ saw and the router have had great reviews but just about any circ saw or router can be adapted to fit.

On the point of the splitter and riving knife. They both essentially prevent the wood from binding behind the bl;ade but the splitter is usually just attached to the insert or table where the riving knife is attached to the blade carrigae and will rise/fall /tilt with the blade and is usually set higher than the blade which impedes such tasks as grooving or making non through cuts.

If you still fancy the Triton the second hand rout is the way to go. I haven't seen any being sold new for a while, so can't even say if they are available new these days.

I have just bought the Makita track plunge saw with the two rails, it gives a very neat and straight cut if you take the time to set the rails correctly. I would buy the appropriate clamps though as they are low profile to allow the body of the saw to pass over without hinderance. I was cutting walnut work tops, no splintering or tear out of the wood. It's also a lot quieter than an normal circ saw and very light too, making it easy to use

Good luck anyway