Triton Router fine adjuster

[Shadowfax]

This could be one for Argee. My Triton router is always mounted in my table, it's been there for about 4 years. Tonight the fine adjuster stopped working properly. It will wind down but will not wind up - it just appears to jam and if I try to "encourage" it a bit it clicks and jams again.
I have cleaned the posts and wiped them over with a silicone lubricant. There is no dust anywhere that looks like it could cause a jam and if I take the router out of the table and use it the right way up the fine adjuster works perfectly.
It seems it is unable to lift the weight of the router when it is hanging under the table.
I never wind up very far, just a mm or so to achieve the final height because it feels smoother and easier than winding down.
I have run out of ideas for the moment so.......help!!
Cheers.

SF

The spring is out, of course.

 

[Blister]

Have you looked at this thread ?

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/search.php?mode=results

may help you

 

[devonwoody]

you haven't by chance reached the upper limit of raise

No of course not.

 

[Argee]

It sounds like wear on the fine adjuster worm gear. I've got a page that explains how to dismantle - the only way to confirm the diagnosis. It really is not difficult. Have a look here. The replacement part (TRA036) will cure the problem, if it's what I suspect. If you don't have the plunge spring removed, then I recommend that you do remove it for inverted work - it's much kinder to the worm gear.

HTH

Ray.

 

[Shadowfax]

Thanks for that.
It certainly feels like wear rather than anything else. I don't like the feel of the click as the adjuster turns but nothing moves.
Ray, I will see if I can get the part and then take the router apart to replace it. I've found your page now which looks pretty helpful.
Cheers for now.

Who stocks the parts, by the way? (Stupid question maybe!)

SF

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Try the Woodworking Centre at Sywell near Northampton. The owner, David Ashworth, used to work for Triton and has loads of spares and some seconds in stock. The website is here.

Cheers
Neil

 

[Shadowfax]

Thanks for the link, Neil.
I ordered the part and some spare brushes to make up the order value. Almost as soon as I had done it the phone rang. It was The Woodworking Centre to ask if I realised the part number and the description on their site did not tally, and which actual part did I want. It could also have referred to the worm gear wheel. Service or what?
I explained that I was assuming I needed the worm-drive shaft but I could not be sure because I had not dismantled the router yet. At that the guy said they had a router in bits on a workbench and as it was only a demonstration model he would take the wheel from it and send it to me for another couple of quid, just in case needed it! That way I would have both parts but without the extra, and possibly unnecessary, full expense of the wheel.
I am quite happy at the moment. I just need to get a screwdriver out and have a look inside my router.
Watch this space.

SF

 

[Shadowfax]

Took the router apart today. Some dust had accumulated on the worm drive mechanism. Some of it was a bit compacted but it did not look too bad. I cleaned everything up and replaced the worm shaft, as advised, and the fine adjuster seems to be OK again. Thanks to all those who gave me advice. This forum is really great!
Just to add to the good service already provided by the Woodworking Centre, when the parts arrived this morning I found that the carriage charge had been reduced from £5.00 to £1.48 so I am even more pleased now!

SF

 

[Argee]

For further clarification, the reason why it worked OK when upright was that it didn't have to overcome its own weight, plus the load imparted by the spring, that it would when inverted. Upright, its own weight partially overcomes the spring pressure.

This is, therefore, why it's so important to remove the spring for table use, or to take the spring pressure off (if left fitted) manually when fine-adjusting upwards. This is the only sure way to prevent wear on the fine adjuster worm gear.

If the spring is removed and the cap is replaced, this can harbour dust when inverted, so either leave it off, or be sure to clear the dust before replacing the spring. HTH

Ray.

 

[Anonymous]

For further clarification, the reason why it worked OK when upright was that it didn't have to overcome its own weight, plus the load imparted by the spring, that it would when inverted. Upright, its own weight partially overcomes the spring pressure.

This is, therefore, why it's so important to remove the spring for table use, or to take the spring pressure off (if left fitted) manually when fine-adjusting upwards. This is the only sure way to prevent wear on the fine adjuster worm gear.

If the spring is removed and the cap is replaced, this can harbour dust when inverted, so either leave it off, or be sure to clear the dust before replacing the spring. HTH

Ray.

So why don't Triton tell you this?

The fine adjuster simply came away in my hands on my Triton. I put it down to shoddy build quality and vowed never to buy Triton again.

Des

 

[devonwoody]

I recall when setting up my triton router the instruction manual advises removal of spring is better if fitting under a table. But of course when you last read the manual (three years in my case) these instructions are not always remembered.

 

[Anonymous]

Therein, of course, most probably lies my problem.

I can't remember ever reading the instruction manual for anything!

Des

 

[Argee]

So why don't Triton tell you this?

The fine adjuster simply came away in my hands on my Triton. I put it down to shoddy build quality and vowed never to buy Triton again.

Des

They DO tell, but they can't force anyone to read their manual. I'd have thought that, with a machine that has not one, but several, unique features, reading the manual would be - if not essential - certainly plain common sense. This is what the relevant parts of the manual says:

MICRO ADJUSTER - For use in the Handle Winder Plunge Mode only.
1.Set the Plunge Mode Selector (e) to “unlock”. Fig 8, and ensure that the plunge lock lever (g) is released.
2.Turn the Micro Adjuster Knob (i) clockwise to increase cut depth and anti-clockwise to reduce cut depth. Fig 10.
Important: When reducing cut depth turn the micro-adjuster one extra full turn, then turn it back to the desired setting to take up any free play.

REMOVABLE PLUNGE SPRING
The Plunge Spring can be quickly removed to reduce effort when adjusting plunge depth while mounted upside down.
1.Set the router to the top of its plunge range and engage the plunge lock lever.
2.Loosen the small screw next to the Plunge Spring Cap (t) a few turns. Twist the cap slightly anti-clockwise to remove it. Fig. 27. Note: hold the cap firmly while releasing tension from the spring.
3.Remove the spring and store in a safe place.
4.Replace the plunge spring cap and re-tighten the screw.

WARNING: Only remove the plunge spring when fitted beneath a router table. Ensure it is always fitted for hand-held use.

I've found that, in practice, the cap can not only be safely left off with the spring removed, but that it's actually better to do, as any dust falls straight through. However, that's only my M.O. (which I share for what it's worth and not to imply any "official recommendation") and I fully understand the reasoning behind the instruction to replace the cap, as it ensures that the small locking screw does not go adrift.

See also my recommendation (4 posts above) to check for dust when replacing the spring for hand-held use.

Ray.

 

[Shadowfax]

Looks like I have started a debate now!
For what it's worth, the plunge spring was removed long ago and this router has never been used hand held at all.
I am fairly sure that my problem stems from the dust that had compacted around the worm mechanism to some extent. Perhaps a regular clean would be sensible.
The wear on the worm shaft was minor but with some bits of hardened "crud" on the worm gear I can see how it could become stiff to operate and wear could be induced (was induced, I guess).
I shall now try to fine adjust downwards rather than upwards. I makes sense and is not really difficult. The instructions do seem to say the opposite but I think what they are essentially saying is only move the bit upwards by the very minimum amount.
It was interesting to take the router apart though. I now have a much better understanding of how the machine works and will have no hesitation in doing the same thing again.
Thanks again to all.

SF