Triton MOF 001 height adjustment advice in table mode.

[Brandlin]

I've not been able to run through your pm yet, but I'll look at it this weekend.

However, you shouldn't need to lock it after adjusting the height with the winder - that's what's causing it to drop 3-4mm. The locking mechanism locks to the nearest detent, and when it's released out of that detent it falls back into line with the screw.

A couple of questions - is the circular button in the knob pressed in or out? And are you able to adjust the height under the table by rotating the knob?

Thanks for your help and patience!

I think we are talking at cross purposes.The 'lock' i am talking about is the black plastic lever (item 16 in the manual referred to as the 'Plunge lock lever'). I'm not aware that this is anything ore than a screw that clamps onto the main pillar of the router. I dont think this has anything to do with the rack and pinion plunge mechanism? You suggest that it engages on the detents on the pinion. I hadn't considered that and would explain the movement...

BUT... I have always locked plunge depth on any router, it was drummed into me
AND... The triton manual explicitly states you should engage the plunge lock.

Winder handle adjustment
1. Plunge depth adjustments can be made by turning the Winder Handle (7)
2. Disengage the Plunge Selection Button (6) and ensure that the button is flush with the
Winder Handle (Image J)
3. To release the handle, pull the Winder Handle Clutch Ring (8) inwards
4. Release the Plunge Lock Lever (16) and twist the Winder Handle until the desired depth of
cut is reached. Release the Winder Handle Clutch Ring, and lock the Plunge Lock Lever

Micro Winder
Note: For use in Winder Handle (7) plunge mode only.
1. Disengage the Plunge Selection Button (6), and ensure that the Plunge Lock Lever (16) is
unlocked
Note: If the Micro Winder (10) is turned with the Plunge Lock Lever engaged, the Micro Winder
will start clicking and the cut depth will remain unchanged.
2. Turn the Micro Winder clockwise to increase cut depth and anti-clockwise to reduce cut
depth. Adjust the cut depth until the desired height is reached (Image K)
Note:When the end of the depth adjustment range is reached, the Micro Winder will offer
greater resistance and will begin to ‘click’.
3. Engage the Plunge Lock Lever, particularly for heavy cuts

*My emphasis.

If i do not use the plunge lock, the bit height is affected by vibration in operation.

I can confirm that the router is in 'Winder Handle Plunge Mode' ie the orange 'Plunge selection button' (item 6) is not depressed (if it wasn then the micro winder wouldn't work - it only engages in this mode)

I'll have some time over the next day or two to video what I am experiencing - that may be easier than tripping over language and the written word. I'll also tentatively try this without the plunge lock lever engaged on a few light cuts- see what the result is.

Thank you again and in advance for any further help.

Link to the PDF manual i am referring to.

 

[Brandlin]

I have a Triton TRA001 in a table and a MOF001 for hand routing. I have had both change depth during a cut if unlocked so I always lock before a cut - no great hardship really. In the table, I don't experience the drop when unlocking.

I don't find I need to sneak up on a final depth because I set the depth with a digital depth gauge, lock the depth then take the cut.

Out of interest, I always locked-off my old ELU routers (several models) too.

Thanks for the comments. Your experience of the plunge depth altering if not locked matches my own - but not it seems others' here in this thread...

Like you i use an accurate depth gauge. However I have been using Mitre Lock cutters and BirdsMouth cutters recently and they are very sensitive to bit height adjustments - so this is the first time i have needed to set a height, do a test cut, and then fine adjust...

I shall try and take some video of what I am doing so that you can all see... and critique my operating skills! :shock:

Thank you for the comment and any further advise.

 

[Brandlin]

<snip> post793931.html#p793931
I believe he is still a current member, drop him a pm as he may not have seen this thread, l recall he was always very generous with his advice

Thank you. PM sent.

 

[stuartpaul]

Some likes to Ray Girlings (Argee) document. Unfortunately I think he passed away last year.

http://www.raygirling.com/dismtra1.htm

http://www.raygirling.com/dismmof1.htm

Hope these are of some use, - they may be for older models though? Last time I did it I found a strip down, clean and lube did help ease usage.

 

[Brandlin]

Some likes to Ray Girlings (Argee) document. Unfortunately I think he passed away last year.

Hi stuartpaul. Thanks for the links.

I'm sure Ray didnt pass away otherwise he couldn't have sent me this

From: Argee
To: Brandlin -

This sounds to me like a worm gear problem, in that the lands of the worm thread have become worn, allowing the cog to slip by. The only cure is the replacement of the worm gear. You can obtain a new shaft from the following page:
http://www.toolsparesonline.com/product ... shaft.aspx
The link to my dismantling page to replace the shaft is:
http://www.raygirling.co.uk/dismmof1
The baseplate being removed has no bearing on the problem, other than to give an extra couple of millimetres when replacing cutters.
HTH?
Ray

Not had a chance to check or reply to him yet. If he is correct then I'll be pretty mad as the router has had little use, although I've owned it for 3 years.

 

[SteveF]

I only suggested putting the black plastic base back as apparently a slightly mis-drilled \ tight tolerance plate can cause the plunge legs to "rack" and bind the mechanism
nothing to lose trying it
also did you remove the 2 baseplate mounting knobs as removing these somehow helped me?

Steve

 

[Brandlin]

I only suggested putting the black plastic base back as apparently a slightly mis-drilled \ tight tolerance plate can cause the plunge legs to "rack" and bind the mechanism
nothing to lose trying it
also did you remove the 2 baseplate mounting knobs as removing these somehow helped me?

Hi steve - I've not had the chance to try anything yet. will do so at the weekend between rugby matches. I don't think i have a bind, but i'll try everything and leave updates here.

 

[stuartpaul]

I'm sure Ray didnt pass away otherwise he couldn't have sent me this

Pleased to hear it! Poor assumption on my part seeing the 'from and to' dates on his website.

He has always been incredibly helpful.

 

[Brandlin]

I havent had a chance to look at my router in detail yet. more updates when i have a chance.
But i am becoming more convinced that i have play in the rack and pinion plunge mechanism. If my router has the older plastic worm then i shall replace it with the metal spare anyway.

 

[transatlantic]

When I am fine adjusting my routers, I partially lock it off. So there is enough friction to hold it in place, but also not too much so that I can still use the rack and pinion with finger pressure. Maybe the same could apply?