Trend HP traditional flush window system

[Mikelewis]

I have recently bought the above window system and have found it brilliant at making windows, however I need to make a patio door and a front door. I have no money to purchase any additional tooling and was wondering if anyone else had used this type of tooling to make the patio and front doors. I am a wood enthusiast and am currently renovating a farm house, hence the purchase of the window tooling. From my first thoughts I have a lot of tooling but need to re-configure it, probably with additional spaces to complete the job. This is my first post, so I will add some info as I progress with the project.

 

[RobinBHM]

My guess would be that you would use only the scribe and profile for forming the door leaves, ignore the stormproofing just machine in a drip around the outside of the doors.

The front door frame can be just a rebated square frame. Since it is open in, you dont usually want a moulding on the outside anyway.

If you dont have a rebate block, then make up a flat frame and plant on the stop beads separately.

You may not be able to use the tenon cutters as they may be built with the double HP rebate -im not sure as I dont use the trend system.

 

[Mikelewis]

Thanks for the info, I was also wondering what the ideal gap should be around an oak engineered window should be. I have been told 5mm all around which seems sensible. I have also seen the expanding foam strips sold on the coastal hardware site, but it's very expensive, wondering what the major benefits are over blue expanding form at a fraction of the cost.

 

[RobinBHM]

Do you mean gap between frame and structural opening?

 

[Mikelewis]

Sorry the delay in replying don't use the computer much. Yes the gap between the outside of the frame and the structural opening.