Toothed blades for bevel-down planes

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MIGNAL":13urns4w said:
Yes, it's homebrewed. Bubinga with Rosewood sole. The mouth is quite wide - some 3 mm's from the edge of the blade to the edge of the mouth - blade in situ of course.
Mike - that Ray Iles blade looks quite coarse at around 10 TPI ? I guess it's going to produce thickish strings and remove material fairly quickly. Years ago I made a toothed blade out of a small file, intended for a small violinmakers thumb plane. I simply filed a few grooves with a needle file and then rehardened the blade. It's still around somewhere. Probably about 6 TPI!! It actually worked and worked quite well if my memory serves.

Thanks! I'll try opening out the mouth this weekend, and see how I get on.

I will be using it as a rough toothed jack for stock removal on some fairly messy elm, so dont need especially fine teeth. With a normal bench plane I cant plane the board at all, it just tears up and jams, which is why I wanted to try a toothed balde at a higher angle.
 
MIGNAL":380zqdq5 said:
Yes, it's homebrewed. Bubinga with Rosewood sole.

With a body as hard as bubinga, why a separate sole?

(although a search revealed Bubinga isn't a dalbergia, which I thought it was)

BugBear
 
MIGNAL":23az6ii1 said:
Mike - that Ray Iles blade looks quite coarse at around 10 TPI ?

Quick calculation, 13 teeth over 44mm gives ~ 7.5 TPI :)

And I'll need to grind quite a camber into it once the plane is performing, it should make quite a nice plane for scrubbing! :D
 
Mikey R":312c26go said:
MIGNAL":312c26go said:
Mike - that Ray Iles blade looks quite coarse at around 10 TPI ?

Quick calculation, 13 teeth over 44mm gives ~ 7.5 TPI :)

And I'll need to grind quite a camber into it once the plane is performing, it should make quite a nice plane for scrubbing! :D

I'm not sure trying to exploit cambering AND toothed blade will work - I think each toothed blade is (in effect) a micro cambered blade already.

I THINK the benefit of cambering is a fully released shaving, and a toothed blade already gives (lots of!) these.

BugBear
 
bugbear":1ptxk1yv said:
I'm not sure trying to exploit cambering AND toothed blade will work - I think each toothed blade is (in effect) a micro cambered blade already.

I THINK the benefit of cambering is a fully released shaving, and a toothed blade already gives (lots of!) these.

BugBear

Thanks BugBear, I see your point. I'll see how I get on with the blade as is, and see what kind of surface I get.

Ive got the weekend to myself and cant wait to get out into the yard after work! :)
 
bugbear":7vq8y306 said:
I'm not sure trying to exploit cambering AND toothed blade will work - I think each toothed blade is (in effect) a micro cambered blade already.

I THINK the benefit of cambering is a fully released shaving, and a toothed blade already gives (lots of!) these.

I agree - cambered blades and toothed blades perform different functions. I'd hone it straight otherwise you won't get the full benefit from it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Ok, opening the mouth helped quite a bit, but the shavings are still getting stuck - as the shavings curl off of the blade, they jam up against the wedge.

Ive been looking at traditional European style planes, and they have a lot more space to allow shavings to exit. Think I'll start again, I should have enough maple left for another go. :)
 
Mikey R":2b0n8iy1 said:
Ok, opening the mouth helped quite a bit, but the shavings are still getting stuck - as the shavings curl off of the blade, they jam up against the wedge.

Perhaps a little reduction and/or streamlining on your wedge and wedge-bar?

BugBear
 
bugbear":3ixyrxsc said:
Mikey R":3ixyrxsc said:
Ok, opening the mouth helped quite a bit, but the shavings are still getting stuck - as the shavings curl off of the blade, they jam up against the wedge.

Perhaps a little reduction and/or streamlining on your wedge and wedge-bar?

BugBear

I think the wedge is way too thick, so the bar is too far forwards, which is why theres no space for the shavings to escape. Unless I can move the bar backwards then I cant use a slimmer wedge.

Does the wedge on a normal, bar-less woodie taper down to nothing? I guess it almost does, maybe 2 or 3mm or so?

Editted to add: Ive had a look at some Kernov style planes:

http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1pages/s ... plane.html

The dimensions of the wedge dont seem too different to mine, so I can only guess its the 60 degree pitch that is closing it all up.
 
Mines at 62 degrees and it doesn't clog up.
Why don't you ditch the cross piece and make it just like the old woodies? Less chance of any shavings getting caught. You can make the abutments as laminated pieces and shape the wedge in the same manner as the old woodies.
 
MIGNAL":1yhyngyv said:
Mines at 62 degrees and it doesn't clog up.
Why don't you ditch the cross piece and make it just like the old woodies? Less chance of any shavings getting caught. You can make the abutments as laminated pieces and shape the wedge in the same manner as the old woodies.

Agreed, thats what I was thinking too - I think thats kinda similar to the Philly method :). I'll see what can be done with it tomorrow.

http://www.philsville.co.uk/jack_plane.htm

I'll also see if the house clearance place is open tomorrow, they often have old woodie jack planes in (in terrible condition, and they like to charge the earth becuase they are interesting). I'll just have a look at how the wedge is cut, should give me a good idea of what to shoot for.
 
Please forgive me not reading this thread in it entirety, but I wanterd to add that Lie-Nielsen does make toothed irons for many of their bevel-down planes. Mr. Chapman seemed to mention that they had them only for the block plane category.
 
Handrubbed":25pu5p39 said:
Please forgive me not reading this thread in it entirety, but I wanterd to add that Lie-Nielsen does make toothed irons for many of their bevel-down planes. Mr. Chapman seemed to mention that they had them only for the block plane category.

The thread is old, and some of the information isn't current.

BugBear
 

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