Tool restoration; how far should we go?

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memzey":6vp6ep7w said:
I just wondered if there was something akin to a pencil that could be used to colour in PU as a bit of a cheat.
Crazy thought, would a felt tip do it?
 
memzey":ze84nb1n said:
- I just wondered if there was something akin to a pencil that could be used to colour in PU as a bit of a cheat.

Lidl are currently offering felt tip pens in a variety of wood colours.

I bought a selection this week - mahogany oak, et hoc genus omne

(or it might be Aldi!)

MCB
 
Cheers MCB I might just do that. Did you pick them up in Hemel? In which case it was Aldi. Our nearest lidl is in Borehamwood.

BTW I took your advice and picked up some Shield technologies rust remover. Only had a little play last night but looks promising.
 
Oh and I had another pop at sharpening the iron again tonight and succeeded this time. Not sure what I was playing at the other night but this big old plane is now taking beautiful shavings. With all my other vintage tools right about here is where the restoration would stop but I feel like I'm going to go a bit further with this one. I'd like to see if I can "sympathetically" restore it to a condition that's like my No. 7.
 
memzey":3rtcqqc3 said:
Cheers MCB I might just do that. Did you pick them up in Hemel? In which case it was Aldi. Our nearest lidl is in Borehamwood.

BTW I took your advice and picked up some Shield technologies rust remover. Only had a little play last night but looks promising.

I think it was Lidl at Borehamwood.

If it had been Aldi, it with have been Hatfield

I use the diluted RESTORE in an ultrasonic bath and leave it for a few days before stiff brushing under running water. That's freed up items that were rusted solid. I was very impressed.

I was given an old Record No. 55 woodworking vice. I took it apart, removed all rust with wire brush and flap wheel on drill; spray painted both jaws with zinc primer and then black; cleared all threaded holes with taps (fortunately, I had the necessary BSF taps inherited from my late father); made new wooden sacrificial jaws and fitted with countersunk socket screws (obtained from Orbital Fasteners). After lubricating the big screw and reassembling it's now fixed to bench and is a pleasure to use.

MCB
 
Interesting. I bought the gel rather than the dilute stuff. It seemed to work well during the little time I played with it.
 
memzey":95ism932 said:
Interesting. I bought the gel rather than the dilute stuff. It seemed to work well during the little time I played with it.

In view of the size of your plane, I think that's the right decision.

I've NOT used the Gel, only the liquid in the ultrasonic bath (which is about 6 inches long and four wide). I was given it since the timer is u/s

It works better at higher temperature (like many chemical reactions)

MC Black
 
That's also interesting. I tried it in a freezing cold shed on a freezing cold bit of cast iron. I wonder if it would work any better if I were to warm up the item or the gel beforehand? I'll give that a go too at some point.
 
MCB":21csgmjw said:
I use the diluted RESTORE in an ultrasonic bath and leave it for a few days before stiff brushing under running water. That's freed up items that were rusted solid. I was very impressed.
If that kind of timeframe doesn't bother you you should try molasses in water, you'll be just as impressed and it'll no doubt save you a bundle.
 
memzey":1vli9pa5 said:
Oh and I had another pop at sharpening the iron again tonight and succeeded this time. Not sure what I was playing at the other night but this big old plane is now taking beautiful shavings. With all my other vintage tools right about here is where the restoration would stop but I feel like I'm going to go a bit further with this one. I'd like to see if I can "sympathetically" restore it to a condition that's like my No. 7.

The secret with a really blunt old iron is not to start with too fine an abrasive. Unlike "maintainance" sharpening, you are probably trying to make substantial alterations to the bevel, and it's quite possible some silly person has back bevelled it, not to reduce tearout, but on the off chance it's a faster was to sharpen. So a fair amount of steel probably needs to come off to get you where you want to be.

So - go in with the big guns, either truly coarse abrasive by hand, or a linisher/grinder of some kind.

BugBear

PS If you think a #8 blade is a big chunk o' steel, some woodies have blades that are 3/16" thick, and 3" wide, and faced with much harder steel than Stanley ever shipped. :D
 
memzey":24vhbt2o said:
That's also interesting. I tried it in a freezing cold shed on a freezing cold bit of cast iron. I wonder if it would work any better if I were to warm up the item or the gel beforehand? I'll give that a go too at some point.
The treated item would need to be kept warm, just an initially higher temp probably won't do enough to see any difference because it's a relatively slow reaction.

You will see a marked speed improvement with most rust-removing methods if you increase the temperature. With any product like this you'll notice it works quickly in the summer and much slower in the winter.

When you can soak something is where you can get the most marked difference, using vinegar or another of the mild acids at about the temperature of tea you can actually put the part in and the liquid will actually appear to boil the reaction is so vigorous. But you have to be very careful doing it this fast as you get significant etching of the surface in only a few minutes.
 
ED65":15d8uex4 said:
MCB":15d8uex4 said:
I use the diluted RESTORE in an ultrasonic bath and leave it for a few days before stiff brushing under running water. That's freed up items that were rusted solid. I was very impressed.
If that kind of timeframe doesn't bother you you should try molasses in water, you'll be just as impressed and it'll no doubt save you a bundle.

I regret that I don't see any logic in that

I already have the Restore; It dilutes 1 + 19 with water and is reusable many times.

I do NOT have any molasses.

So how will buying molasses save money?

MCB
 
:| I meant in the long term, once the (no doubt pricey) Restore is gone.
 
ED65":2j3au8l5 said:
:| I meant in the long term, once the (no doubt pricey) Restore is gone.

My experience with Restore is that it's good value for money and the firm that make it has very helpful courteous people who respond quickly to After sales queries.

Since I'm diabetic, I would NOT want to have Molasses in my home!

MCB
 
Over the years I've tried most methods of rust removal. I now have a large plastic container permanently rigged up for electrolysis. Just connect up and hang the items in it, and come back a bit later to find all the rust completely removed. Quick wash and going over with a wire brush and ready for painting/finishing.
 
I have tried that before with mixed results. It can work well but if taken too far it can have the effect of almost dissolving the metal (DAMHIKT).
 
MCB":359hc1cf said:
My experience with Restore is that it's good value for money and the firm that make it has very helpful courteous people who respond quickly to After sales queries.

Since I'm diabetic, I would NOT want to have Molasses in my home!
So don't eat it! Not difficult to treat it like it was household bleach or something else you wouldn't take internally.

Anyway, for anyone that is interested I did the sums earlier and molasses is as I presumed much better value for money.
 
It's not that easy to resist eating the things you used to enjoy, without peril. I know. I have to have the things I shouldn't eat in the house because I am not the only person who eats. Worse; I am looking after the distaff side of things, so from time to time I'm cooking crumbles, and serving up cereals et al. I do resist because I don't want to lose body parts to the surgeon's saw. But it is definitely a struggle to ignore the temptation.

The last time I used molasses, was when I brewed my own ale; and even that is a no-no these days! So to buy molasses would be another temptation to knock-up a five gallon barrel! of my 'Old Bill'! :mrgreen:

regards

J
 
Rather than hijack the thread, I am taking my mind off the prospect of unwanted surgery. I am giving my Coronet Major Combination machine a thorough going over. I have to build a bench for it, and decide where to site it, but I think that across the garage just inside the door is best, so I can feed the saw out of the garage. I'll have to dismantle the Festool MFT mind, and use that outside on fair weather days!

Can't promise a WIP, but there's going to be a lot of cleaning and repainting to be done. I've a suspicion I might have to shim the table adjustment so I can set up the saw blade and table properly, but the machine goes on and on; just giving. I think it's easily the equal of some of the small table-saws, such as the Bosch and the Hitachi. But unless molasses have some lubrication properties (Highly unlikely!) I don't buy any!

For interest:

http://www.coronetwoodworking.co.uk/

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/g.e.malthouse/cmajor01.htm

Wish me luck folks. :D
 
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