Tips and Wrinkles

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White PVA glue mixed with some powdered chalk, Artex etc. tinted with some wood dust to suit job (trial and error I'm afraid) makes a good filler. If you can get it spot on it's invisible, treat with some clear knotting, followed by finish ...bosshogg :)
Be a first rate version of yourself, not a second rate version of someone else.
Judy Garland  (hammer)
 
It's a duty to add to, is it not?
3/4 dog holes, and the dogs stick. Basic household candles (the cheap ones) seem to be 3/4 diameter... you know what to do!
And I always keep a candle very close to hand, for screw tips, tool assembly sometimes, plane sole. They'll tell you not to because it may upset later finishes, but I've never found that an issue, and anyway with every cut you are removing the deposit so a few passes and it's pretty much gone. (Sure beats tallow anyway!)
So: one cheap candle, white. And keep it close by.
 
I was bought an battery operated self extending tape measure one christmas. Not really used until I wanted to pull some cables under floorboards. The self extending feature is brilliant for reaching across a room under the boards, attach the cable, then pulling back is the easy part.
 
yes Luke, and there's another side to that I was once very guilty of. Don't save your best tools for best - use 'em and start doing your best.
(I used to keep the odd Lie plane or chisel until the work justified using it... ridiculous really #-o )
 
If you need to trim a small amount off a 45* cut and you have forgot your mitre square why not use the back of the chisel, as in the photo's

6331306733_19431e37c9_m.jpg


6331306951_227878d392_m.jpg
 
monkeybiter":1a66nwia said:
I was bought an battery operated self extending tape measure one christmas. Not really used until I wanted to pull some cables under floorboards. The self extending feature is brilliant for reaching across a room under the boards, attach the cable, then pulling back is the easy part.

This one is fan-blinkin-tastic!!!

I was thinking "what on earth would you buy one of those for!?"

Now I know!

Brilliant!! =D>

Jimi
 
I was once discussing tips & dodges with a rather naive acquaintance who suggested in all seriousness; "sawdust and glue for filling any gaps. Have you ever heard of that one?" (I kid you not).

Now, none of us here would ever resort to that. Would we? :lol:
 
When cleaning water-based finishes (more and more common these days :-( ) off brushes use really cheap shampoo first. Work it into the bristles neat, then clean in COLD water. Don't be tempted by washing up liquid - it contains glycerine that will ruin finishes for subsequent use.

If you want to get solvent-based paint off brushes, before use drill a hole through the brush just above the ferrule (metal bit round the bristles). Use the hole with a piece of wire or a long nail to suspend the brush in white spirit, so that there is about 3/4" between the end of the bristles and the bottom of the jam jar. The paint falls to the bottom, leaving the bristles in good nick for next time. I dunno why manufactures don't provide a hole in the right place, but they never seem to.

New mini-paint rollers shed 'fur,' which is a pain. I don't re-use them as it's not worth the bother, but I do clean them before use by putting my vac on strongest suck and using it to pull the roller round against resistance from a finger. Any loose fluff comes off before I start painting. I also trim the fur on the open end with scissors, to a "45 bevel" so that it doesn't hold too much paint and either drip or leave a trail.

HTH,

E.
 
(it's gone a bit quiet on this thread recently...)

I wish my workshop was attached to the house, but it isn't. So, about this time of year usually, I start muttering darkly and decide the planes etc. really have to come indoors because of the damp.

But there's a big problem: cold plane + warm house = condensation + rapid rust formation.

I've got two techniques to avoid this happening:

1. Out in the workshop wrap up the planes in a plastic bag each, and remove as much air as practical before tying it up fairly tight. It doesn't need to be a hermetic seal, just not an open bag. When they come indoors, condensation forms on the outside of the bag and not on the metal surfaces (there isn't enough air inside to be a problem). Once they've warmed up to ambient temp, they can come out again.

2. This I prefer, as it's quicker and doesn't need much thought/planning: bring the planes in as-is, and *immediately* (seconds count here!) put them on top of a hot radiator. After half an hour or so they can be moved to wherever you want to store them. This works because the air above the radiator is very dry indeed, and the planes can heat up without condensation forming on them.

The first one works better for awkwardly shaped things that won't balance on a radiator, as long as you get as much air out of the bag as possible.

There's nothing worse than seeing a rust spot from a drip on a mirror-finish plane sole you spent hours flattening. Hopefully you won't. If you put tinsel round them, the Domestic Controller might be fooled into thinking they're decorative and let them stay put on top of a radiator(s) for the winter. Well, it works until 12th night, anyway!

:)

E.
 
Eric The Viking":2srslri9 said:
I wish my workshop was attached to the house, but it isn't. So, about this time of year usually, I start muttering darkly and decide the planes etc. really have to come indoors because of the damp.

But there's a big problem: cold plane + warm house = condensation + rapid rust formation.

E.
Rust, rust, what's rust stuff you talk of?... un-damp your 'shop E :p Mine's fully insulated, more or less sealed and a dehumidifier runs 24/7 to a soak away. In the seven years or so that it's been built, I've never seen any rust on any iron surface, be it a plane, chisel or machine table - Rob
 
A great carpenter told me this one (doubt he ever had to resort to it himself though):

"If your joints aren't nice and tight, fill them them with glue,sawdust and other sh*te"

On a more practical note:
Use a plastic drinking straw to help with blowing dust out of holes when boring in wood or concrete/ brickwork.

After cleaning natural bristle paintbrushes, put a drop or two of hair conditioner (cheap stuff will do) on the brush and work into the bristles. Wrap in newspaper and when the brushes dry you'll find they hold their shape well and maintain their suppleness. Also when painting- if using oil based paints and are finishing up for the day, wrap the brush or roller in a plastic bag and stick in the freezer to prevent drying out. The brush can be used without cleaning the next time you need it- saves on cleaning between coats etc. This works very well.

When using sandpaper in a orbital sander I use duct tape to reinforce the back of the sheet near the ends, doubles the life of the sheet as it prevents tearing at the corners.

Baby wipes are great for cleaning up mess and removing oil from your hands before glue up etc. Also good for cleaning paint from hands.
 
When using a random orbit sander have an old cushion handy. Then after switching it off,rather than waiting for it to spin down before putting it down, simply dump it on the cushion.
 
trsleigh":16vue9ib said:
When using a random orbit sander have an old cushion handy. Then after switching it off,rather than waiting for it to spin down before putting it down, simply dump it on the cushion.

That's a good 'un!

I've recently got a big Makita, and once a vacuum hose is attached, where to put it down becomes an interesting challenge!

Thanks, E.
 

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