Tips and Wrinkles

[DOOGYREV]

Heres another one

In the work shop, if you inadvertently dent a piece of timber your working on, just put a little water on the dent (or spit on it) then leave it, the wood will absorb the water and swell allowing you to sand smooth again, and hey presto the dent is gone.

On a finished piece or a solid wood floor for example, you want to use some fine grit sand paper and just where the dent is rub the varnish down just enough to let moisture get to the wood, then wet some tissue so it is soaking and put the blob of wet tissue on the dent, for about 24 hours, let it dry, and sand smooth if needed, and re varnish.

You would be suprised how well this works even on large dents

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

And another one, though it's DIY really.

If you have to fit things to walls, it's a pain getting rid of the gritty dust from drilling the rawlplug holes, but a dust sheet usually doesn't catch it.

I keep used, large envelopes for this: stick the flap of the envelope against the wall with masking tape, just below where you are going to drill the hole, so that the envelope is open, facing out from the wall. Most of the muck then falls into the envelope and not into the carpet.

One better than this, Using several pieces of masking tape stick the end of a vacum cleaner's hose under the hole and turn it on. if the tape isn't holding place something under the bend of the hose to take the weight and /or jam it against the wall.

 

[Anonymous]

Heres another one

In the work shop, if you inadvertently dent a piece of timber your working on, just put a little water on the dent (or spit on it) then leave it, the wood will absorb the water and swell allowing you to sand smooth again, and hey presto the dent is gone.

On a finished piece or a solid wood floor for example, you want to use some fine grit sand paper and just where the dent is rub the varnish down just enough to let moisture get to the wood, then wet some tissue so it is soaking and put the blob of wet tissue on the dent, for about 24 hours, let it dry, and sand smooth if needed, and re varnish.

You would be suprised how well this works even on large dents

The quicker version to this is, using a damp cloth and a hot iron. Works wonders - sorry to jump in on this great tip.

 

[barkwindjammer]

Great topic btw Jimi

A very basic offering from me, as this is aimed at 'noobs'

when cutting a piece of wood, either a batton (4x2, 2x2 etc) or a board

the baton - mark all the way round the piece-then make cuts all the way round too

the board - start your cut at one end-then make a 'start' cut at the other end -and continue- on the waste side obviously

both these methods will prevent having a cut piece of wood with a 7 and a half inch 'splinter' attached

 

[Froggy]

When thicknessing a piece of stock.....bevel the edges to the line you wish to thickness to and then commence planing the top. This keeps you flat and in line and allows you to determine when the correct thickness is reached right across the stock...when the bevel disappears.[/b

Cheers

Jim

I've just finished hand planing a kite tread for a staircase from 60mm thick oak down to 35mm (don't ask why - lots of different reasons!!) and your tip would've been great for me then as I was constanting measuring all round for the thickness. :roll: Ah well I know for next time. Good tip, and dam good thread Jim.

I'll try to think of one tonight and post tomorrow.

 

[Benchwayze]

If you are going to use pine Match-board, or ship-lap outside, and it is to be painted or treated, do the tongues and grooves before you assemble. Then if the boards open at all, as they probably will, you won't see chinks of white timber.

In years gone by, exterior doors used wedged, through-M&Ts and exterior grade paint was used as a glue. We probably don't need that today, but if you are a traditionalist, you might like to try it.

If you louse up a lap dovetail pin, don't fret over it. Cut the pin away entirely, and then splice in a small section of the same timber, into the joint, about an inch below the bottom of the socket. When the glue is dry clean-up, and re-cut the socket. (With a bit more care! :mrgreen: )

John :wink:

 

[Froggy]

Ok - today I was making some newel posts for outdoor decking. A couple of the posts had some unsightly splits in them. So I sanded the posts and then filled the splits with glue. Then I took the sawdust from the sanding and sprinkled it on the glue, then lightly rubbed it in. Tomorrow I will sand again and the split will be stronger and nolonger unsightly! Simples!

 

[mack9110000]

Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges

So does a pack of playing cards.
mack

 

[Ateallthepies]

Where ever possible wear a dust mask and safety glasses when needed.

Last time I checked you only get one pair each of lungs and eyes and both are quite useful.

Steve.

 

[DOOGYREV]

Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges

So does a pack of playing cards.
mack

I have always used the card from the packet the hinges came in.

 

[Anonymous]

Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges

So does a pack of playing cards.
mack

I have always used the card from the packet the hinges came in.

i just chop them in the right depth

 

[bosshogg]

i just chop them in the right depth[/quote]

your so cool man 8) 8) 8)

 

[DOOGYREV]

i just chop them in the right depth

Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.

 

[Benchwayze]

i just chop them in the right depth

Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.

=D> =D> =D>

This is better than 'The Comedians'!

(hammer)

 

[jimi43]

Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges

So does a pack of playing cards.
mack

Isn't that just whistful thinking!? :mrgreen:

(Ok that one is definitely coat material....)

Jim

 

[Anonymous]

i just chop them in the right depth

Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.

then i would do it properly and splice the existing hinge pockets

 

[Benchwayze]

i just chop them in the right depth

Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.

then i would do it properly and splice the existing hinge pockets

That brings back memories...

I did this often in the 60s. I worked for a builder who had a contract for maintenance work on Council homes. Some of the frames I had to work with though were almost 100% pocket-splice! There were many 'debates' with my gaffer, when to do the job properly, I would go to the yard and persuade the Joiner to 'issue' some framing material, so I could knock up a new frame on site. The debates came when the Council Inspector had sanctioned a new door, but had ignored the state of the frame. So cost-cutting is nothing new! Of course the Inspector wasn't a qualified Carpenter. The guy who gave us most trouble was an ex-bobby, who had forsaken his plumbing to join the force, years before. Nothing changes does it?

Edit: No reflection on plumbers! :mrgreen: It was the norm at the time, for any qualified tradesman to be employed as a general Building Inspector.

 

[woodbloke]

Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges

So does a pack of playing cards.
mack

Isn't that just whistful thinking!? :mrgreen:

(Ok that one is definitely coat material....)

Jim

I think this might be a bridge too far Jimi - Rob...defo coat and hat material :lol:

 

[wobblycogs]

Here's one that I should try to learn...

When putting in screws always drill a pilot hole of the appropriate size so that wood doesn't split and don't over tighten the screw lest you damage the head or shear it clean off. If you are struggling to get a screw in you are probably doing something wrong.

And a quick follow on, if you are going to screw a floorboard down use a slotted screw rather than a philips or pozi. The screw head often gets filled with waxy gunk over time and it's easy to clean out a slot but a pain to clean out a pozi (spoken from bitter experience).

 

[RogerP]

... following on from the above.

When using brass screws first run a steel screw of the same size into the pilot hole. In too much of a hurry I've ignored my own advice and had brass screws break and they're the very devil to get out if the remains are flush with the wood surface.