Shadowfax
Established Member
Anyone got any tips for removing tiles from a kitchen wall that is dry-lined? The last time I did this it wrecked the wall lining. I am actually tempted to tile over the original tiles.
Help!
SF
Help!
SF
Tiling
- Thread starter Shadowfax
- Start date
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No easy way mate. Its worth a try with a large flat blade but its all down to the adhesive used when they were fixed.
Its a case of getting one out and trying to get behind the next to lever it off. Sometimes once you release the pressure on the tiled wall it becomes easier.
Tiling over is an easy option and is fine.
Its a case of getting one out and trying to get behind the next to lever it off. Sometimes once you release the pressure on the tiled wall it becomes easier.
Tiling over is an easy option and is fine.
Shadowfax
Established Member
Thanks Tiler99. That's what I thought. This is work I did 23 years ago and I suspect I probably did a good job which means they are really "on there"!
Tiling over is looking like a good option.
Cheers.
SF
Tiling over is looking like a good option.
Cheers.
SF
Mdotflorida
Established Member
Just done the same in my kitchen. It made a mess of the plasterboard after I pryed them off with a very thin blade small Japanese pry bar.
As it is being retiled I was not too worried. Dot and dabbed a couple of new bits of plaster board in where necessary and it was fine.
If the uncovered area is going to be painted rather than tiled, the only option may be re-skimming unfortunately.
Jeff
As it is being retiled I was not too worried. Dot and dabbed a couple of new bits of plaster board in where necessary and it was fine.
If the uncovered area is going to be painted rather than tiled, the only option may be re-skimming unfortunately.
Jeff
Paul Chapman
Established Member
When I re-tiled my daughter's bathroom, I just couldn't get the tiles off without wrecking the plasterboard. I cut through the plasterboard with a Stanley knife and replaced it and then re-tiled. The finished job looked OK but took longer than I had planned.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Its all down to the prep. Better the starting surface is, the better the finish and quicker.
Its false info when they say you can use more adhesive to build the walls out when fixing tiles. It makes for weak walls and problems in the future.
My advice if you could do it is to remove the tiles and board. and replace. Its not that hard to do. A bit of common sense is all thats needed. While you remove the boards is a good chance to centralise sockets etc.
Its false info when they say you can use more adhesive to build the walls out when fixing tiles. It makes for weak walls and problems in the future.
My advice if you could do it is to remove the tiles and board. and replace. Its not that hard to do. A bit of common sense is all thats needed. While you remove the boards is a good chance to centralise sockets etc.
RogerS
Established Member
tiler99":1t5nab41 said:
I agree 100%..it also makes the retiling that much quicker
tiler99":1t5nab41 said:
Not if it's in the kitchen, sadly. Part P and all that ...but then who's to know :wink:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi shadowfax
I just redid the en suite before christmas, and had similar dilemma. The house is fairly new (9 years) but the tiling and dry walling was poorly done (50 x 50 studs, way too much tile adhesive etc etc) Some of the tiles came away more or less in one complete sheet, but of course theres always the awkward bit isnt there! I normally use a pry bar (similar to mdot) which incidentaly is a bloody superb tool if you get the genuine japanese shark brand but not the cheap screwfix copie's , or a 5 inch wide bolster to get tiles off, but on this job the tiles stayed put and even the extra width and surface area of the bolster was not enough to prevent it being forced into the void between the plasterboard's. So instead I smashed along all the grout lines with a 18 inch crowbar (could have just as well used a hammer) and cracked the joints and mostly the tiles came off in shards. The only bit that had to be patched was where the bolster had forced itself through.
One word of caution, just one small piece of tile fell and smashed the side off the basin (it was being scrapped any way) How it did it I dont know as I hoyed the toilet out the window and it never smashed on the floor even when I set about it later on with a 4x2 :roll: :lol: Any way I forgot about the exposed shard on the basin until I was using a crowbar to remove the studding round the old shower door and I levered down until.....the back of my right middle finger made contact with the sharp edge. A stanley knife woulodnt have made a cleaner cut. I should've been wearing my showa's :roll:
cheers Jonathan
I just redid the en suite before christmas, and had similar dilemma. The house is fairly new (9 years) but the tiling and dry walling was poorly done (50 x 50 studs, way too much tile adhesive etc etc) Some of the tiles came away more or less in one complete sheet, but of course theres always the awkward bit isnt there! I normally use a pry bar (similar to mdot) which incidentaly is a bloody superb tool if you get the genuine japanese shark brand but not the cheap screwfix copie's , or a 5 inch wide bolster to get tiles off, but on this job the tiles stayed put and even the extra width and surface area of the bolster was not enough to prevent it being forced into the void between the plasterboard's. So instead I smashed along all the grout lines with a 18 inch crowbar (could have just as well used a hammer) and cracked the joints and mostly the tiles came off in shards. The only bit that had to be patched was where the bolster had forced itself through.
One word of caution, just one small piece of tile fell and smashed the side off the basin (it was being scrapped any way) How it did it I dont know as I hoyed the toilet out the window and it never smashed on the floor even when I set about it later on with a 4x2 :roll: :lol: Any way I forgot about the exposed shard on the basin until I was using a crowbar to remove the studding round the old shower door and I levered down until.....the back of my right middle finger made contact with the sharp edge. A stanley knife woulodnt have made a cleaner cut. I should've been wearing my showa's :roll:
cheers Jonathan
Shadowfax
Established Member
Thanks for all the replies, guys. You have all confirmed what I thought. If these tiles have got to go they are not going to go easily. I remember I did a proper job so I guess I will either have to cut out the plaster board or tile over the existing tiles. I don't need to do anything just yet - some kitchen cabinet doors to be made first - but I like to be prepared.
Many thanks for your thoughts and advice.
Cheers.
SF
Many thanks for your thoughts and advice.
Cheers.
SF
A
Anonymous
Guest
To be honest mate for the sake of speed and ease of obtaining a good surface to tile on it might just be easier to rip everything off and re board? then you wont have the bother with old hardened adeshive line's etc. I wanted to see what things were like underneath as the previous owner had gone bloody crazy with the dreaded silicone gun (like rolf harris :roll: ) attempting to stop a leaking shower tray :roll: which made me suspicious. As it happened there wasnt any problems with mould/dry rot etc in this instance but you never know.....In my opinion silicone is one of the worst abused modern material's, its a menace in the wrong hands :lol: :lol:
Hope your project goes well, cheers Jonathan
Hope your project goes well, cheers Jonathan
Just finished removing tiles off my en-suite.
I was concerned about having to re board it, more so the logistics of getting materials to the house.
Anyway, as it's only half tiled I choose to pry them off with a Harris heavy duty paper scraper, and then put a hot air gun on the adhesive and used one of these to scrape it off http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 0&ts=76607
Some of it dropped off and some was terrible ,however the upside is it's now sanded back nicely to plaster and ready for tile.
Jed
I was concerned about having to re board it, more so the logistics of getting materials to the house.
Anyway, as it's only half tiled I choose to pry them off with a Harris heavy duty paper scraper, and then put a hot air gun on the adhesive and used one of these to scrape it off http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 0&ts=76607
Some of it dropped off and some was terrible ,however the upside is it's now sanded back nicely to plaster and ready for tile.
Jed
I always allow for reboarding when pricing a job. By the time you have hammered, levered the tiles off all the fixings will be loose and the board surface damaged in places.
Also with the current trend of larger and therefore thicker tiles skimmed plasterboard is often not upto the job as it will only take a combined tile & adhesive weight of 20kg/mt whereas bare plasterboard will take 32kg and Aquapanel 50kg.
Jason
Also with the current trend of larger and therefore thicker tiles skimmed plasterboard is often not upto the job as it will only take a combined tile & adhesive weight of 20kg/mt whereas bare plasterboard will take 32kg and Aquapanel 50kg.
Jason
