Tiger Myrtle. (small hand size)

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Thanks for the tip Stewie. I applied it to the small DT saw I am refurbing.

This hand saw refurb is becoming a little obssesive.

Keep up the good work, I watch with interest.

David
 
What are you holding the handle with in that last post? Looks intriguing.
 
I have a strong preference to remove the small area of saw plate that extends beyond the back of the spine mortise. If left as is , it can lead to a deflection along the saw plate. The thinner the saw plate gauge, the greater the potential.

Stewie;



example
 
Shaping of the handle has now been completed. Further coats of garnet shellac will fill any remaining open grain, and darken the timber to more of a chocolate brown.

It also represents the ideal time to focus on the next stage of shaping the brass back, followed by filing the saw teeth.

The non traditional approach to profiling each side of the spine mortise should look fine after additional coats of shellac have been applied.

Stewie;

 
I don't expect making further progress until after the weekend with temps currently above 35* C. No air-con in my workshop. :oops:

Stewie;
 
Coming along beautifully Stewie.

We too in the UK are experiencing an unusually warm period, with expectations for it to remain so until after Christmas. The warmest Winter in 70 years I believe. A great excuse for Westminster to hike taxes to address global warming...............yeah right!

David
 
Seems the tiger put her claws on that handle, I like this modern touch.
 
I have finished applying the last coat of garnet shellac to the handle. The handle will be put aside for 5 days to allow the shellac to further harden and tighten up before final buffing. I have made a start on shaping the brass back.

Stewie;
 
Hand shaping of the brass back has been completed.

The next step is to bond the brass back to the top edge of the saw plate. .

Stewie;

 
To bond the brass back to the top edge of the saw plate I am using a medium strength Thread Lock. A thin bead of TL is applied to each side of the brass back slot, and the excess wiped off with a clean rag. The process is then repeated to insure a full depth of slot has been filled with TL. Allowing 5 min. for the TL to harden up, the saw plate assembly is then wiped down clean with a clean rag and Mineral Turpentine. Do not use denatured alcohol). Job done.



Next to do is file the saw teeth.

Note: The shaping; setting; and final sharpening of the saw teeth will not be covered in detail.

Stewie;
 
swagman":1d2kvc4k said:
This thread has exceeded its expiry date imo.


Stewie, your saw builds are one of the highlights of this forum.
Keep them coming mate, please =D>
 
With family staying for the xmas-new year period its been difficult getting some time in the workshop to finish off this backsaw. All that's remaining is to file and set the teeth 10 tpi / 10 degree rake angle.

Stewie;

 
In an effort to move away from a reliance on disposable paper templates to notch the tpi spacing I spent an hour filing this reusable solid template at 10 tpi. Down the track I will do the same for 12 & 14 tpi settings. 10;12; & 14 are the more frequently used tpi I use with my backsaws builds.

Apologies for the quality of the photo.

Stewie;


 
Notching the tpi spacings using the 10 tpi solid template I recently filed. Excellent results.



The notching template removed and the saw teeth shaped, jointed, and sharpened to point, ready for set to be applied.

Stewie;

 
The knowledge and skill set required to shape the saw teeth by hand cannot be compared to the simplicity of sharpening already pre formed teeth.

Stewie;
 

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